Just changed out front hubs,rotors,and bearings. Took it for a drive ,and all is great except the hubs are hot. Turned the wheels while adjusting spindle nut to 21 ft/lbs then backed off a bit. What is the correct procedures? Dang looks like I have to pull the wheels again.

 

Hot is normal depending on the length of the trip and how much the brakes were used prior to turning it off.

Did the wheel spin freely after you backed off the spindle nut?

 

Yes thanks for the info. I called my brother the Ford Tech and he basically said to do it way I always have ,which is to tighten the nut while rotating tire forward direction until it starts to apply good friction. Then back the nut of a bit, and tighten it by hand as hard as you can. He said there might be a little play. I did and it is working good. The X sure does brake good now without warped rotors, and crappy bearings.

 

IIRC, the torque spec is 18in lbs for that nut. So tightening by hand as tight as you can could be around there...depending on how strong you are!

I always use channel locks because I get a better feel for how light it needs to be when tightening the nut.

Stewart

 

Yes indeed. I do still have a pretty good grip. My Craftsman inch pound torque wrench starts at 25 inch pounds. I 've used the hand tight thing for years and never had a come back, neither has my brother. I must admit though I've worked on a heck of lot more GM, and Dodge trucks than I have the Super Duty platform. I want to get it right ,because I think the Ford Super Duty/ Excursion are a great rig. Just want to keep it that way. I was and still am a ASE Master Tech until my certificates expire), But I an retired so who cares. Just want the best for the X if indeed it is a different animal all together. I was the only 1998 Dodge certified mec-a-nik north of Santa Rosa Ca, to Portland Or, for awhile. I can tell you the Supr Duty/Excursion is a stronger truck. IMHO. I love this thing and will rebuild or replace new parts before I ever buy another. I am a bit sore tonight after tackling new hubs,front rotors, inner & outer bearings,seals and packing bearings though. My son wants to me a technician like Dad (poor child) and he did all the prep work and greasing of bearing's. It's good to know that some young kids want to go this route, but I tell him, son look how worn out I am after 36 years of working on heavy Equipment, and passenger vehicles. The gleam in his eye's tell me I should teach him all I can.

 

18in lbs is finger tight and a 1/10 turn.

Set the bearing with 20 ft/lbs while turning, then back off nut 3/4 turn and use your fingers with just the socket to snug it up, then about a 1/10 turn with the wrench.

I just did mine in Dec and after finger tightening, the torque wrench would break at about 1/10 to 1/8 turn.

Feels lose but its not.

If you took it for a quick spin and they got hot, way to tight.
They should bearly get warm on long trips. Unless alot of braking.

From Timkins web site:
To adjust the setting of this bearing:
Step 1: Tighten the nut while
turning the hub. When there is
a slight bind on the bearing, the
parts are seated correctly.
Step 2: Back the nut off 1/6 to
1/4 of a turn or sufficiently to
allow .001” to .007“ end play.
Note: Failure to back off adjusting
nut could cause bearing to run
hot and be damaged. Wheel
could lock or separate.

Here are the links to 2 of the Timken Tech sheets.
http://www.timken.com/EN-US/solution...gs_English.pdf

http://www.timken.com/EN-US/solution...rngSystems.pdf

Following Fords manual, I got .002 end play when I checked.

From ford manual:

Wheel Bearing Adjustment —F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550
CAUTION: Wheel seals on the front axles must be replaced any time the axle lubricants are changed from factory-installed mineral lube to synthetic lube or vice versa.

CAUTION: If bearings are adjusted too tightly, they will overheat and wear rapidly. An adjustment that is excessively loose can cause pounding and contribute to uneven tire wear, steering difficulties and inefficient brakes. Check bearing adjustment at regular inspection intervals. New wheel seals must be installed when the hub is removed. A damaged or worn seal can permit bearing lubricant to reach the brake linings, resulting in ineffective brake operation and necessitating premature replacement of linings. To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings as follows.

While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to specification as illustrated to seat the bearings. 21ft/lbs

Back off the adjusting nut until loose.

While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to specification as illustrated. Torque required to rotate the hub should be 2 Nm (18 lb-in).

Install the castellated nut and insert a new cotter pin.




Hope this helps

 

It does, good info, and reps to ya

 

Automotive TechTips (North America)

here is Timkens tech pages, great info.

 

I'll second that.