Mustang woes
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Mustang woes
I know this is a truck page, but knowing what I do about similarities between fords back then, someone here might know a little bit about this stuff.
My mustang is a 68 with a 302 4v with tach. The tach is wired in series into the heavy pink resistor wire that runs from the ignition switch to the coil (I think). Anyhow, sometimes the tach just stops working and shows 100 or 300 rpm with no fluctuation. Then, without doing anything, it just starts working again. I'm still using the original firewall to headlamp wiring, but have replaced the alternator feed wiring and the engine guage feed wiring. I also have a new alternator, voltage regulator, coil, and the tach had been removed and sent to be calibrated. Is this a fluke or is there something I'm missing here?
Also, what can be done to really tighten up the steering. I've literally replaced everything in the front steering and suspension with new parts, except the steering box which was rebuilt. The alignment computer says its within limits but it still pulls and the steering wheel is sloppy. I actually had one alignment guy tell me the torque put out by the engine changes the way the car sits on the suspension which changes the alignment from when its sitting still and when its moving. Regardless, I've run out of new parts to buy (except I've seen someone is making NEW steering boxes) and am pretty frustrated with the steering.
this last question is really not a big deal, but can be annoying. I replaced my fuel sending unit and the guage basically works, but when the tank is full the guage only shows 3/4 full. When the guage shows empty, I put in 2 gallons and it shows 1/4. It's got a 16 gallon tank so I should have 4 gallons per 1/4 tank indicated. I seem to get about 150 miles on the top half of the tank as indicated and only about 50-75 on the bottom half(by the gauge). Is there any way to fix this or is this typical for old mustangs?
Thanks.
My mustang is a 68 with a 302 4v with tach. The tach is wired in series into the heavy pink resistor wire that runs from the ignition switch to the coil (I think). Anyhow, sometimes the tach just stops working and shows 100 or 300 rpm with no fluctuation. Then, without doing anything, it just starts working again. I'm still using the original firewall to headlamp wiring, but have replaced the alternator feed wiring and the engine guage feed wiring. I also have a new alternator, voltage regulator, coil, and the tach had been removed and sent to be calibrated. Is this a fluke or is there something I'm missing here?
Also, what can be done to really tighten up the steering. I've literally replaced everything in the front steering and suspension with new parts, except the steering box which was rebuilt. The alignment computer says its within limits but it still pulls and the steering wheel is sloppy. I actually had one alignment guy tell me the torque put out by the engine changes the way the car sits on the suspension which changes the alignment from when its sitting still and when its moving. Regardless, I've run out of new parts to buy (except I've seen someone is making NEW steering boxes) and am pretty frustrated with the steering.
this last question is really not a big deal, but can be annoying. I replaced my fuel sending unit and the guage basically works, but when the tank is full the guage only shows 3/4 full. When the guage shows empty, I put in 2 gallons and it shows 1/4. It's got a 16 gallon tank so I should have 4 gallons per 1/4 tank indicated. I seem to get about 150 miles on the top half of the tank as indicated and only about 50-75 on the bottom half(by the gauge). Is there any way to fix this or is this typical for old mustangs?
Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 0
From: Lower 48
Mustang woes
Take a look at your steering box. Somewhere, usually on top is a bolt with a slot in it for a screwdriver, and a locknut. Put a screwdriver into the slot and back off the locknut holding the adjusting bolt from turning. Slowly rock the steering wheel (engine running if power steering) until you've taken the slack out of the steering. Tighten the locknut without allowing the adjustment bolt to turn.
Trail Rider
Trail Rider
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Mustang woes
Sam I know a couple of mustag guy's and they call the steering sporty you have to drive the car not just steer it? You mit check into tires with a stiffer side wall this will cut down on the sway or spongy feeling. Ford are bad about there grounding of the chassis. Chech the ground to your sending unit you mit have to take it to the battery. Hope this helps.
Dan
Dan
