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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 12:57 PM
  #16  
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After I did my zf swap, I found I wasn't charging sometimes. Finally found when I had pulled the cluster to get the speedo cable loose during the swap, I had pulled the connector for the cluster halfway out. It was the one on the left. There are two that go to the cluster.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 06:48 PM
  #17  
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WEEEEEELLLLLLL hahaha i didnt plug in the fuel selector switch. So i plugged it back in and it works perfect...................................BUT

The damn rattle of hell is back. It still fast idles and then slows down when warming but it is loud again.....real loud. I hope someone knows what it might be. Thoughts or ideas welcome! It may just be the timing but my question is

Why would it make less noise if the selector switch was not plugged in and more noise if it is. The fast idle still works in either case but it is louder when the switch is plugged in. I dont know!!! HELP!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #18  
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What happens if you unplug the timing advance solenoid?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #19  
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Just a wild crazy shot in the dark.... any chance of an electric fuel pump hooked to tank switch circuit over pushing the fuel?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #20  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
He does have an electric pump, you might be on to something.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #21  
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very possible that fuel thing is the issue, it does have a electric and it is only hooked up to one tank right now. The rear is out of the loop.

Dave, i havent tried it yet, could the solenoid be bad or messing up?

If it is the fuel pump over pushing the fuel, which i didnt know was possible or an issue because the truck was loud with the last engine it had. well now that would make sense on the other hand........still lost! haha
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #22  
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Is the ip the same one that was on the old or is it a different Ip. if it is different and is still noisy I would run a fuel pressure test.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #23  
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it is the IP from the new engine. Man, just as a thought, could i re connect the fuel gauge somehow to operate and disconnect the fuel switch? When i disconnect it, the engine smooths out like a kitten purring, i reconnect and a little later, it is back.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:56 PM
  #24  
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Can't take but what 10 minutes to unhook the wire to that pump and fire it up and see if she is quieter...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:56 PM
  #25  
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this could be my excess haze of smoke i see and unburnt fuel. hmmmm.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #26  
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If it is killing the pump how is it running. the mechanical pump is not still on it is it, that would be a bad thing.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #27  
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Wreckinball: Are you runnin both stock pump and an electrical one? Big no no if that's the case. Get rid of that electric one.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by wreckinball
this could be my excess haze of smoke i see and unburnt fuel. hmmmm.
Indeed it could... if that's the problem I bet your fuel economy goes up too.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:14 PM
  #29  
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nope, i did the fuel pump block off a long time ago. The PO had it on but not hooked up and it was making a mess.

warozz, I dont know what killing the pump means, you mean the electric or IP? I dont know if it is killing it, not sure how i would know. The wire you mention, which one you talking about? When i disconnect the switch completely, it smooths out.

I would hope you guys would know i wouldnt run both electrical and mechanical at the same time! hahah
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #30  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Is it possible that when you hook up the selector switch it is restricting the return someway.
 
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