1949 Ford F-6 VIN Decoding
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Freshman User
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Found out today that the 254 Six is not stuck at all. Got a battery in her and it turns over real good. I put new plugs in her and a new coil, but I'm not getting any spark to the plugs or directly out of the coil. Will work on the points tomorrow. I'm a little confused as to how to connect the wiring to the new coil. It is a generic 6-volt coil and the two terminals are labeled + and - where as the old coil was labeled Battery and Distributor. Since the truck is a positive ground should I connect the hot wire from the battery's negative terminal to the - terminal on the new coil and connect the wire from the distributor to the + terminal on the coil? I'm guessing this new coil assumed a negative ground system.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
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From: Kalispell, MT
....... I'm a little confused as to how to connect the wiring to the new coil. It is a generic 6-volt coil and the two terminals are labeled + and - where as the old coil was labeled Battery and Distributor. Since the truck is a positive ground should I connect the hot wire from the battery's negative terminal to the - terminal on the new coil and connect the wire from the distributor to the + terminal on the coil? I'm guessing this new coil assumed a negative ground system.
Do it like you said. Power to the (-) terminal and the (+) to the coil. The coil is hooked up backwards from a more modern neg grnd truck.
I think the 6 is similar to the V8's in that the dist plate moves with vac advance. Often the wire in the bottom of the dist loses it's insulation from age and flexing and shorts out on the dist case or the advance plate. If you have power to the coil, but nothing to the points, check that wire - and don't drop the little screws.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Here's a copy of the 48-49 Wiring diagram if it helps at all. The wire coming from the ignition switch (power/negative) hooks to the negative terminal of the coil. The positive terminal of the coil goes on to connect to the distrubutor wire (and eventually on to ground/positive).
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Thanks guys for all the good information and the wiring diagram. I've got to go to a doctor's appointment in a little while, but will report back my findings later today or tomorrow. Again thanks for the help.
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Getting current at the points. Held a spark plug wire and got a mild shock.
Repeated later and got no shock. Firing is intermittent. I've bought a new set of points and a new condenser. Will install them tomorrow. Also have fuel delivery issues. Apparently this truck hasn't been ran for an extended time. Drained the fuel tank and the old gas was black. I had to poke a small phillips screwdriver up the drain hole and break the gum loose to get the gas to drain out. I think it has gummed up the fuel lines as well. I tried blowing the line with compressed air, but no luck. Is there a chemical that will dissolve the dried up gas?
Repeated later and got no shock. Firing is intermittent. I've bought a new set of points and a new condenser. Will install them tomorrow. Also have fuel delivery issues. Apparently this truck hasn't been ran for an extended time. Drained the fuel tank and the old gas was black. I had to poke a small phillips screwdriver up the drain hole and break the gum loose to get the gas to drain out. I think it has gummed up the fuel lines as well. I tried blowing the line with compressed air, but no luck. Is there a chemical that will dissolve the dried up gas?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
The intermittent might be the wire leading from the coil to the distributor. I'd check that.
If I were you I'd replace ALL the gas lines before I tried to run the engine. If you dissolve it, it's gonna travel - right to the carb- again and again.
If I were you I'd replace ALL the gas lines before I tried to run the engine. If you dissolve it, it's gonna travel - right to the carb- again and again.
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I replaced the primary wire from the coil to the distributor. I also replaced the primary wire inside the distributor that runs underneath the vacuum advance plate. I soldered all connections. I'm still not getting a spark to the plugs. When I do a continuity check between the primary lead and the distributor case, I get continuity. That tells me the primary wire is somehow grounded. I guess I'll have to take it apart again and see if I can figure out where the short circuit is.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
This may sound stupid, but 50% of the coils, and condensers you will buy new off the shelf are going to be bad.
Here is a long thread we had that really goes through a lot of trouble shooting. Might provide some insite! Also, you might PM Ross (Albuq F1) and ask him to jump in - he knows alot about the ignition stuff.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...s-flattie.html
Here is a long thread we had that really goes through a lot of trouble shooting. Might provide some insite! Also, you might PM Ross (Albuq F1) and ask him to jump in - he knows alot about the ignition stuff.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...s-flattie.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Oxford, Indiana
Is there a chemical that will dissolve the dried up gas?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
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From: Poway, Ca.
Lacquer thinner. It'll eat fuel varnish like nobody's business. Pull your tank, plug the line port, and dump a gallon of thinner in along with a couple handfuls of drywall screws. Plug the filler port and then roll it around for awhile. Agitate it as much as possible. Dump it, refill with another gallon of thinner only, and agitate again to rinse. The thinner is kinda spendy and it's a pain to get the screws all shook back out, but it's the best way that I've found to clean one out at home.
And be sure you do this well away from any flame or possible source of spark. Laquer thinner mixed with air 20:1 in a closed container is a real BOMB!
If youtake the sending unit off the top when finished, youcan inspect the inside adn use a magnet stick to get the screws out that got missed.
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I found the problem and fixed it. The distributoron my truck has a brass screw that goes through the distributor case and connects to the primary wirie from the coil. The screw is insulated so that it does not contact the distributor. In my situation the insulation was worn and the screw was touching the distributor cased and shorting out. I have temporarily removed the screw and ran an insulated wire directly from the coil to points. Engine is getting fire and attempted to start but wouldn't catch. Found another problem when the engine was trying to start. The exhaust manifold where it connects to the pipe has burnt away. Apparently the truck has been driven with a manifold leak for an extended time and the metal has disapeared. I am now in the market for a good used exhaust manifold for a 254 CID six.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 410
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From: SE / NWL MI
That little screw / contact point on the side of the distributor is the exact thing that shut my tractor down (Ford 641). I popped the cap and could see it randomly arcing. The little piece of rubber insulation had gotten wet. The fix was what you did, run one wire direct from coil to screw on points and silicone the hole at entry through body. I didn't realize it was the same set-up on the trucks, my flattie was gone when I got the truck so no reference between the two. Glad you seem to have that issue fixed.