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UVCH ok....now what?

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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 02:36 PM
  #1  
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UVCH ok....now what?

Reaching out for help here, not sure what to do next.
Earlier this week, I found a radiator coolant leak where the goosneck connects to the water pump. I replaced the o-ring and the leak seems to be fixed. I started my truck and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes to check for leaks. While the truck was running, the engine started sounding a little funny, like it was missing a cylinder here and there. Check the gauges and the Service Engine Soon light was on.

Used my Bully Dog programmer to pull whatever codes I could and found 1316 (again). Last time I had this code, the passenger side injector harness under the valve cover was loose. The dealer fixed that side, I later opened up the drivers side and installed the safety clip as a preventive measure. So, this time, I figured that one of the harnesses has come loose again.

Today, I popped off the connectors outside the valve covers and took ohm readings to see which side might be the problem. All injectors on both sides read about 3.2 to 3.3 ohms. I suppose this means the harness under the valve covers are nice and solid. Correct?

Now what? Do I have to put everything back together and take it to the dealer? I hate to go that route if there are some more things I can check. Should I take off the electrical harness and check for open circuits? Is there a way to check the IDM? Are my suggestions even close to the next steps?

I did look around and see if I could see anything obvious. I think I see that my forward oil line on the HPOP may be leaking (I have the o-ring kit so I can fix that later). I also see something that looks like an oil pressure sensor that has a bunch of oil on it. Should I replace this sensor? It looks iffy. Here is a pic.

Any ideas?????
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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At this point, I would check the main wire hardness that goes over the top of the driver's side valve cover.. Read a lot of posts where there is wear and rubbing on this hardness..and maybe shorting out on the cover.. Also, I would disconnect the main connector on this hardness above the valve cover and check it for corrosion.. (your ohm check would not show any problems becuz you were disconnected from this part of the hardness)
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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That looks like your icp sensor. Here is another pic to make sure: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...184642&width=0
If it has oil in it that can cause problems. Sounds like you need to replace the sensor and fix that other leaky line and go from there. You can also unplug that sensor and see if it runs any different.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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Ok, I checked the wire harness. Wires look good, no damage of any kind. Pulled apart the connector block and cleaned with electrical parts cleaner just in case.

Put everything back together. Truck still runs a little rough. SES light in still on. I unplugged the ICP sensor and the truck romps really bad, almost seems to stall. When I unplugged the electrical connector, the plug was saturated with oil. I cleaned best I could, but maybe that sensor is the issue?

Would that sensor throw a 1316 code?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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I would still replace the sensor. If it is leaking it is bad. Do you know anyone around you with AE? The 1316 means there are codes stored in the idm and have to do a buzz test to retrieve them.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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No luck finding the ICP sensor at any local parts stores. Dealership closed early today. Do any of the FTE vendors sell this part online?

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
Would that sensor throw a 1316 code?
No, but if you unplugged it you should see some new codes like 1280 (I believe). If you've got a 1316 code, you need to determine the cause. If you're problem is intermittent, then you need to do the ohm test when the truck is acting up. Testing it when the truck is running fine won't usually produce any results.

When you had the work done before, did they intall the updated gasket or install a shim?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
No, but if you unplugged it you should see some new codes like 1280 (I believe). If you've got a 1316 code, you need to determine the cause. If you're problem is intermittent, then you need to do the ohm test when the truck is acting up. Testing it when the truck is running fine won't usually produce any results.

When you had the work done before, did they intall the updated gasket or install a shim?
Yes, you are correct. I now have the 1280 code as well. Good call!
So, I suppose the ICP may be working 'ok' even though the connector is full of oil? No matter, it's getting replaced anyway (as soon as I can find out where to buy the darn thing...)

The service ticket makes no mention of an updated gasket or shim of any kind. The only parts used were 2C3Z 14A163 AB. That number should be the little pack of plastic retainer tabs that are a band-aid basically. Supposed to hold the harness together under the covers.

I am thinking that I need that AE programmer bundle that RiffRaff sells. Would you recommend that product? Seems like it could really save me quite a bit of money. I plan on keeping this truck until it turns to dust.

If I buy that AE thing...can I do the fancy stuff like buzz and contribution tests? Not sure if I would even understand what the results were....but I am not too worried because I have all the FTE guys and gals who can help me learn that stuff.

Do I need to be worried about the shim or gasket thing?

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
Yes, you are correct. I now have the 1280 code as well. Good call!
So, I suppose the ICP may be working 'ok' even though the connector is full of oil? No matter, it's getting replaced anyway (as soon as I can find out where to buy the darn thing...)

The service ticket makes no mention of an updated gasket or shim of any kind. The only parts used were 2C3Z 14A163 AB. That number should be the little pack of plastic retainer tabs that are a band-aid basically. Supposed to hold the harness together under the covers.

I am thinking that I need that AE programmer bundle that RiffRaff sells. Would you recommend that product? Seems like it could really save me quite a bit of money. I plan on keeping this truck until it turns to dust.

If I buy that AE thing...can I do the fancy stuff like buzz and contribution tests? Not sure if I would even understand what the results were....but I am not too worried because I have all the FTE guys and gals who can help me learn that stuff.

Do I need to be worried about the shim or gasket thing?

Thanks
Yes, the AE will run all the tests and allow you to monitor all your sensor as well as datalog.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:35 AM
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Next thing to try is pull the IDM and inspect that and clean the contacts in the harness. A little dielectric grease on the connector. A Curtis
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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ICP sensor from International?

Can I pick up the ICP sensor from International? Is it the same as the Ford part? There is an International dealer pretty close to my office so I thought I'd run over there during lunch tomorrow.

Today's update. Cleaned up the engine a bit, the leaky ICP sensor made a bit of a mess there. I also replaced the o-rings on the HPOP hose fittings as well. I did not see any signs of leaks at the IPR so I left it alone (for now). I'll pick up a new ICP tomorrow and see if it helps or possibly solves my issue.

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
Yes, the AE will run all the tests and allow you to monitor all your sensor as well as datalog.
Thank you very much sir. You will see my order when you get to work in the morning. (order #1655)
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gchavez
Today, I popped off the connectors outside the valve covers and took ohm readings to see which side might be the problem. All injectors on both sides read about 3.2 to 3.3 ohms. I suppose this means the harness under the valve covers are nice and solid. Correct?


Not sure I'm reading this right, but, if you checked the ohms outside the valve covers, and they read OK...they feed the UVCH, they are not fed by the UVCH....have you pulled the valve covers and checked the UVCH connection??? If not, a good candidate for the 50c mod...stay clear of the stealership, they'll offer you a $600 fix that you can do for 50 cents...
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by N V US Lawn Care
Not sure I'm reading this right, but, if you checked the ohms outside the valve covers, and they read OK...they feed the UVCH, they are not fed by the UVCH....have you pulled the valve covers and checked the UVCH connection??? If not, a good candidate for the 50c mod...stay clear of the stealership, they'll offer you a $600 fix that you can do for 50 cents...
If I read his 1st post correctly, he has already installed the Ford Safety Clips on both sides already recently...
 
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