Edelbrock Carb Experiance
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Edelbrock Carb Experiance
I just spent quite a bit on a new hp engine. I also bought a new Edelbrock 500 1403 for $300. I wanted the lasting quality of good carb, without the trouble of some rebuilds I have had...some I have rebuilt.
I ran it for four months, and then changed the engine. When I tried to adjust the mixture, I had the screw out 2-3 turns, and it just popped out and took the threads with it.
I took it to Edelbrock. They examined it, called me the same day, and said that in the morning I could come in a pick up a new carb. The next morning I called before going in. The same guy told me that they "could not find a new 500, but they had a pallet of rebuilt ones, and I could have one of those.
I told him no. I did not pay $300 for a rebuilt. Now they are stalling me. They said they would have to search for a new one, and that they would call. The 24 hour turn around they mentioned has turned into 48, and still no word.
I ran it for four months, and then changed the engine. When I tried to adjust the mixture, I had the screw out 2-3 turns, and it just popped out and took the threads with it.
I took it to Edelbrock. They examined it, called me the same day, and said that in the morning I could come in a pick up a new carb. The next morning I called before going in. The same guy told me that they "could not find a new 500, but they had a pallet of rebuilt ones, and I could have one of those.
I told him no. I did not pay $300 for a rebuilt. Now they are stalling me. They said they would have to search for a new one, and that they would call. The 24 hour turn around they mentioned has turned into 48, and still no word.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Wingo, Ky
I hate Edelbrock Carbs, lol. I use Holley and Motorcraft carbs. Thinking about switching over to a 4100 4 barrel Motorcraft or back to the stock 2 barrel motorcraft that came on most of these trucks.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2008
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bug em
yea man keep buggin em till they take care of it. If that was part of the warranty then they are legally bound to make it right. They"re just hoping they can keep puttin you off till you give up. Dont let em
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
They only draw back is because of all the mustang restorers, good cores are getting difficult to find. And they usually cost about $100 for a core!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Wingo, Ky
The 4100 Autolite is a good carb. I have rebuilt quite a few. They are dependable and perform well. Pony Carbs has quite a write up on them. You can also see a dyno test of them against some Holley's on classic inlines . com. They blow the Holley's away.
They only draw back is because of all the mustang restorers, good cores are getting difficult to find. And they usually cost about $100 for a core!
They only draw back is because of all the mustang restorers, good cores are getting difficult to find. And they usually cost about $100 for a core!
I have a 600cfm Edelbrock on my 79 F150 and I just don't like it at all, lol. I have a 600cfm Holley on my 79 Bronco and I love it, performs well, easy to start hot or cold. My 73 F100 is all original with a rebuilt two barrel 2100 Motorcraft, it starts like its Fuel Injected, I love that carb to.
My 79 F150 use to have a Holley on it but it was wore out so I switched to a Edelbrock. I want to keep the four barrel so Im going to switch back to a Holley or get my hands on a 4100 when money permits.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Since the guy helping me would not return my call, I spoke to the supervisor and drove to Edelbrock. Within 15 minutes he found my original carb, replaced the body and rebuilt it. They would not give me a new one as they originally said, and since the 90 day warranty expired 32 days ago, I thought it best I not push the issue.
Didn't even need to throw a rock through their front window. He He.
Didn't even need to throw a rock through their front window. He He.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 118
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From: Colorado
What size engine is in your truck? If it's a V8, a 500 cfm may be a hair small. See if they will give you a new 600 cfm in place of the 500. I run an Edelbrock 600 on my new 460 and it runs great. I have an electric fuel pump installed, I turn the key wait a few seconds and pump the gas twice. It starts right up, with the choke removed, summer or winter. I am (was) a Holley guy but this Edelbrock is much easier to tune.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,011
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Have the 750 with electric choke. Run it on a Edelbrock performer intake. It is junk from the day I bought it. Hurd the 750 is just a luck shot on getting a good one. If you have one treasure it like gold because there is a lot of junk ones out there. So I am told. Now the 600 are suppose to be good all around. I have yet to meet anyone running a 750 with out problems. Anyone out there have better luck. Only reason I still use it is to keep the intake/carb combo.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
the only way to TRUELY dial in ANY carb is on a Dynometer with a wide band air/fuel readout, so you know what you need to change to dial it in...you can get close with a vacuum guage, or by ear and test running, but you have no idea if its fat or lean throughout the rpm range... honestly, after working in a speed shop with a dyno, i have yet to find any PRO engine tuners who can get it right without a dyno...everytime someone comes in with a carbed motor they say "the carb is tuned great, but it still stumbles" and everytime we get it on the dyno the car is running either lean or rich, but never right....those little screws only control your idle mixture, everything else is in the jets....
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 668
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the only way to TRUELY dial in ANY carb is on a Dynometer with a wide band air/fuel readout, so you know what you need to change to dial it in...you can get close with a vacuum guage, or by ear and test running, but you have no idea if its fat or lean throughout the rpm range... honestly, after working in a speed shop with a dyno, i have yet to find any PRO engine tuners who can get it right without a dyno...everytime someone comes in with a carbed motor they say "the carb is tuned great, but it still stumbles" and everytime we get it on the dyno the car is running either lean or rich, but never right....those little screws only control your idle mixture, everything else is in the jets....
I understand Holley power valves and float adjustments have come a long way, but for a person to figure out the correct carb linkage throw, for a specific application without a dyno is tough. Do I use the pink or the purple piece in the linkage,, run a quarter and change it, repeat as necesary 
.....Geesh it could take a while to dial it in. Now throw that dizzy timing issue in there I know a lot of people who have great luck with out of the box Holley's, some bring them to me to adjust the floats after smelling fuel for a week or two.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,735
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From: Wingo, Ky
the only way to TRUELY dial in ANY carb is on a Dynometer with a wide band air/fuel readout, so you know what you need to change to dial it in...you can get close with a vacuum guage, or by ear and test running, but you have no idea if its fat or lean throughout the rpm range... honestly, after working in a speed shop with a dyno, i have yet to find any PRO engine tuners who can get it right without a dyno...everytime someone comes in with a carbed motor they say "the carb is tuned great, but it still stumbles" and everytime we get it on the dyno the car is running either lean or rich, but never right....those little screws only control your idle mixture, everything else is in the jets....