Fellas,
My water temp gauge is from the gas F150, now before i ask my next question, know that i understand water boils at 160 and when properly mixed with antifreeze/coolant the boiling point goes way up. So with that staged, since the installation of my new thermostat it has run on the N of normal mostly. Only when running up a hill at high speeds will it go above that and it will almost never pass the edge of the O unless i am killing it, which i dont but have touched the R. It feels a lot hotter in the heater vents when it goes up like that. My specific question is whether or not my temp gauge is set to a different operating range for the gasser engine it used to have. Diesels run hotter so i would assume so but alas i dont know. I am cutting it out this weekend and installing a mechanical gauge to get the goods on this issue. As far as a temp range not to exceed, where should it "operate" and what is the max. Also where is the temp sensor on my engine, there are two "plugs" one next to the ip housing and another lower and back farther. They both screw into the block and their wiring is routed along the same route but i dont know specifically where it goes as it is wrapped and taped. Thanks!

 

First off, water boils at 212 Fahrenheit, or 100 Celsius.
The rest I don't know.

 

Wreckinball your radiator cap has a lot to do with the boiling temp.

 

This is true. Thought I had a problem with coolant sytem ended up being my cap. My info calls for a 15lb cap, I had a 13lb. When I tested it would only pump up to 8 then leak down to 5lb (faulty cap). Replaced it with a 16lb and all my troubles went away.

 

When I replaced my temp* sensor on the 6.9 2 years ago, Ford gave me a gasser one, I only noticed it after installed, the gauge went to L of NORMAL and beyond. I took it back out brought it back to Ford and they gave me one for a 6.9 and it's been good since, sits around RM crusin' the highway. (with a 180* Thermostat)

 

Don't know about the temps of the IDI but my VW TDI runs so much cooler then a gasser that it has three glow plugs in the coolant stream to help the coolant get to temp faster and get heat for the cabin faster in the winter. Without them it would take forever for it to get warm.

 

My '89 F350 the temp goes up as the electrical load increases....first time or two I noticed I was pulling a gooseneck trailer with about 5ton of hay on it, and as it got dark, I turned the lights on of course. Shortly after the temp was almost to max, until I turned the lights off, and it dropped a couple letters, I think around the 'm'. I added extra grounds to frame from the block, cleaned sender connections etc, and it's always stayed the same, I just live with it.

 

It is uaually a ground in the dash that causes this.

 

haha yeah the temp thing i totally jacked up. i was looking at something else. oops. My main issue is with my current set up i cant tell if i am over heating or coming close because i dont understand what a n o r m a and l stand for. I am replacing asafp because i could be totally freaking my self out or i am being perfectly cautious, just want to make sure.

 

since it is from a gasser you would be reading a bit high on the gauge at normal diesel temps ... So your gauge reading O and R is a hair below mid so I myself would not fret too much about it ... But get a good one that reads numbers as soon as ... Just to be safe ...

 

So which sensor on the block is the temp gauge?

 

I am pretty sure it is the inside one but you can short it out and watch the guage and tell.
I'm a stickler for guages and knowing what my motor is really doing. But the rule of thumb is as long as it is not boiling water out it is not damaging your engine, these diesels like heat.

 

right i am aware of that for sure i just want to make sure. I bought a full sweep equus gauge today with multi adapters and two faces and two different color bulbs of which red i will go with. It matches the interior. Now one by one the stock POS gauges will disappear, cant beat a really nice gauge on sale 50% off. Got it for 29.99. Now as per the location, i dont know what you mean by inside, i am removing the entire stock setup, so i was hoping to see if it is the one by the ip pimp housing or the one down on the side of the block. I will call ford so no worries there but for future reference if anyone knows, post it up.

 

I don't remember if it is the one to the right of the ip(drivers side) right under the corner of the intake. I think this is it or the one in the head, but like I said if you short it out it will peg your factory guage if they dont have it reversed in your body swap he he. I know Dave has a picture telling which is the guage and which is the light. but I can't find it.

 

cool thanks bro!