300 il6 rocker arm problem

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Dec 25, 1999 | 05:06 PM

JUSTINWEBER

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300 il6 rocker arm problem

Ok I know this may seem folish but I have been rehabing my 66 f100/ 300il6 I was all set to change my valve cover gasket before the big family dinner. I noticed three of the rockerarms were very lose the engine has been sounding like it had valve lash. At anyrate I jump up and grabed the wrench to tightend the arm and did so. I did this to all the arms..... Now I know I did a boobu, now how to fix. does the engine use hydrolic lifters if so how do I put the arms on right. IF the engine uses solid lifts how do I put the arms on right.

HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP

Thank You, Peace to us all.

Dec 25, 1999 | 06:39 PM

Willie

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From: Oklahoma

300 il6 rocker arm problem

If the 300-6 engine you're talking about is stock
it most likely has hydraulic lifters.
If you over tighten with solid lifters you would
have bent a valve or push rod.
The factory service manual states that all of the
valve adjustments are to made in the same arrangement as the engine firing order.
Once the piston in the selected cylinder is at TDC
(Top Dead Center) the adjusting nut should be tightened until there is no more slack between the push rod and the tappet. Once that has been achieved, tighten the nut 1-1/2 turns more.
Follow that same proceedure on each of the cylinders, remembering the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.
It always a good idea to do a compresson test while the spark plugs are out.
After following these steps, the engine should run
properly if all other settings are correct.

Dec 25, 1999 | 07:08 PM

JUSTINWEBER

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300 il6 rocker arm problem

Ok with the frist part. But, how do I find tdc for 1 2 3 4 5 6. I ok but the rest... sory this must seem lame but I only have done this once... thank you.

Dec 25, 1999 | 07:15 PM

StockMan

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300 il6 rocker arm problem

This question seems to come up a lot. I have added a Technical information page to my site. Follow that link to the Valve Adjustment Procedure. TDC can be found by removing the #1 spark plug and rotating your engine until the timing mark (notch) on the damper lines up with the TDC (0 degree) mark on the timing cover. The piston should be at the top and both valves for #1 cylinder should be relaxed. If you prefer use the "PHSSSS" method. Put finger in #1 hole and crank engine. Just as you hear the air escaping past your finger stop cranking. The damper timing mark (notch) should be just before the TDC mark on the front cover. I hope this helps.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
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Dec 26, 1999 | 09:53 PM

StockMan

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300 il6 rocker arm problem

Dec 27, 1999 | 10:19 AM

Bill Martin

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300 il6 rocker arm problem

For what its worth I'll offer my two cents on this subject. The Ford straight six engines are extremely easy to work on. They are a simple design and in truck applications access to the engine is excellent. These are great engines for anyone wanting to do their own mwchanical work. However, for any serious mechanical work you need a shop manual. Haynes manuals are my favorites, they seem to offer more detail than the Chilton manuals due to the fact that the model range they cover is more restrictive. These manuals are also geared more toward the novice mechanic. I bought my 73-79 Fullsize Ford Pickup manual at Auto-Zone for about $20.00. Its payed for itself many times over.