3414 Thanks that breaks it down nice & simple i will give that a whirl & see if that does it thanks again for the simple breakdown on this that should be easy enough to do & not to time consumming. Thanks again

 

That's in essance what the drawing I provided shows, wired inline between the battery and the load. But I'm not sure I'd have all those power wires bolted togehter and taped and just hanging, they need to be on the solenoid post.

 

So i need to Come off the always hot side of the ignition To the Gauge Through The gauge Out to the + Side of the Starter Solenoid now this also isolates the starter out of the circuit. After that see that the discharge goes neg reading if not reverse the wires right?? & I should not get any arc welding or fire?

 

Honestly, at this point, I'd take thet ruck into an automotive electrical shop that can ascertain your wiring and power distribution and let someone who understands these circuits hook it up.

 

I think i've got it i will try it the way you showed on the diagram i just wasnt seeing it the other day i think ive got it now though will give it a try Thanks for your help i am sorry if i was alittle confused had alot on my mind & needed to clear the cobwebs so Thanks For all your help it was very helpfull just used to having a manual with the schematics. Thats my next purchase Once again You Rock & Thanks For the help

 

NO Problem. The reason I suggested that is because your truck could be wired and configured many ways - thus the 8 different sets of instructions. It's tough to give someone accurate instructions when you don't know what that configuration is.

Actually if you are just looking for a charge indication, and the gauge will cut off the power between the ignition switch and starter solenoid, just wire it in parallel to the current wire running from the "Batt" post of the ignition switch and the Starter solenoid It should work like that.

So, just disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery,
Run a wire (12 gauge will be fine) off both posts of the ammeter.
Connect teh wire on the negative terminat of the gauge to the "Batt" post of the ignition switch, and
Run the wire from the positive post of the ammeter out to the "Batt" post of the starter solenoid (the one the positive battery cable goes to).

Leave the existing wire that runs between the ignition switch and starter solenoid in place - uncut. (so you actually have 2 wires making this run - the ammeter is wired to one of them).

Reconnect the negative battery cable on the battery.

Should work fine.

The shop manual won't help you with an aftermarket gauge with wire on posts. Ford used induction loop ammeters that the wire just ran through (the wire that connects the starter solenoid and ignition switch)

Good luck

 

Thanks Julie thats what i am going to do i will let you know if that worked Later today ok Thanks again.

 

Julie I got it was that simple Starter solenoid to neg side of gauge & always hot from ign to pos side of gauge Thanks for all your help

 

Other way around. Negative side of the gauge toward the ignition switch, positive side of the gauge toward the starter solenoid (and positive battery cable).

 

no cause when i put a load on it gauge went up not down switched the wires & put load on it & gauge went downfired it up & it showed slight movement up like it was charging. Thanks for the help & the drawing I appreciate it.

 

Ok, well, that's backwards from all the drawings, but whatever has to be done to get it to work properly is the case. As I said earlier, alot dependes on the individual gauge.

I'm glad you were able to get it in and it is working for you.

 

Exactly i was going by what the gauge did a load should draw neg & a charge should push pos either way it works Thanks again for all your help