Full Tilt Front ideas
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 1
From: Yountville Ca
Tilt 56
Hey Stephen
Good luck on your 56 tilt project. Here's a couple pics of my 58 tilt. Its nothing fancy but I like how it works and looks. Its a simple low buck affair.
I bolted and then welded all together--as I believe you are planning at this time--if I read you right.
I made my own tilt hinges out of some flat metal and ran a pin/bolt through the front boxed frame rails and that's all there is to it. I have a pair of "lugguge type" latches on the outside of each fender where it joins to the "back of fender and cab". The pic explains it better-i hope. And after using it for a while I added a pair of traditional through the hood performance type hold downs--something I didn't plan on, but at high speeds-100+-at the drags-the luggage latches sometimes come "unlatched" and this seemed overall like the "strongest solution" and most direct. It wouldn't look good on many trucks--but on this modded unit it looks OK to me.
Another thing I added later was a simple 1/4 steel rod about 12" long with a 90degree bend that I put through the plate tilt hinge and the boxed frame. I found that my tilt and many can possibly come crashing down unexpectedly when left open/up. So this simple rod/pin was added by simplying raising the hood/tilt to the open position--i only go to about 45 degrees--that's all I need for access etc-and I have a couple cables that attach to each inner fender panel and the frame so as to "hold" it UP at that 45 degrees. And then I simply drilled through the operational hinge and boxed frame and insert the 1/4 steel rod pin. I made a little clamp like thing near the hinge on the drivers side to hold it when not in use, but one could just leave it in the glove box too. The wind can't blow it down/up or whatever and if a cable were to brake etc the pin firmly holds it upright. Its simple and not elegant in any way, but it works for me, and I'm happy with it.
I'm sure your different year--and as you mentioned your using a bumper--I'm not that makes mine even simpler-- will have unique concerns but this is some data to add to your mix good luck.
Tom
Good luck on your 56 tilt project. Here's a couple pics of my 58 tilt. Its nothing fancy but I like how it works and looks. Its a simple low buck affair.
I bolted and then welded all together--as I believe you are planning at this time--if I read you right.
I made my own tilt hinges out of some flat metal and ran a pin/bolt through the front boxed frame rails and that's all there is to it. I have a pair of "lugguge type" latches on the outside of each fender where it joins to the "back of fender and cab". The pic explains it better-i hope. And after using it for a while I added a pair of traditional through the hood performance type hold downs--something I didn't plan on, but at high speeds-100+-at the drags-the luggage latches sometimes come "unlatched" and this seemed overall like the "strongest solution" and most direct. It wouldn't look good on many trucks--but on this modded unit it looks OK to me.
Another thing I added later was a simple 1/4 steel rod about 12" long with a 90degree bend that I put through the plate tilt hinge and the boxed frame. I found that my tilt and many can possibly come crashing down unexpectedly when left open/up. So this simple rod/pin was added by simplying raising the hood/tilt to the open position--i only go to about 45 degrees--that's all I need for access etc-and I have a couple cables that attach to each inner fender panel and the frame so as to "hold" it UP at that 45 degrees. And then I simply drilled through the operational hinge and boxed frame and insert the 1/4 steel rod pin. I made a little clamp like thing near the hinge on the drivers side to hold it when not in use, but one could just leave it in the glove box too. The wind can't blow it down/up or whatever and if a cable were to brake etc the pin firmly holds it upright. Its simple and not elegant in any way, but it works for me, and I'm happy with it.
I'm sure your different year--and as you mentioned your using a bumper--I'm not that makes mine even simpler-- will have unique concerns but this is some data to add to your mix good luck.
Tom
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Sacramento vintage Ford offered a hinge kit which is basically a pair of plates. I bought a pair for my planned tilt front. The hinge plates bolt to your inner fenders and air deflectors.
I can't really reccommend buying these from them because it was a royal pain to get mine from them. It took almost 6 months and many calls and emails. But I thought it would give you an idea to make your own.
With this setup you don't need to cut off the front of your frame. Which means you can run your bumper.
I can't really reccommend buying these from them because it was a royal pain to get mine from them. It took almost 6 months and many calls and emails. But I thought it would give you an idea to make your own.
With this setup you don't need to cut off the front of your frame. Which means you can run your bumper.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Hey cool, thats very helpful to see uninstalled like that. That's a long the lines of what I was thinking, it would lift the hood out and away and not so close to the bumper. I wonder if you would need to reinforce the whole thing, like having a frame setup for teh front metal like Julies if you kept the inner wheel wells...
Hey Tom, have you noticed any tearing or instability with just connecting to the inner wheel wells? Is it wobbly or pretty solid? I'm thinking having the inner wheel wells, even if I have to mod them, would help to make everything much more solid and keep any need from having to add bracing. My only concern is it being too much on the wells where it's bolted to and having it start to rip.
Ted, have you had any problems with the fenders catching at the bottom?
I guess one could using an elongated hole in the frame for the pin and just have it slide forward first perhaps?
Hey Tom, have you noticed any tearing or instability with just connecting to the inner wheel wells? Is it wobbly or pretty solid? I'm thinking having the inner wheel wells, even if I have to mod them, would help to make everything much more solid and keep any need from having to add bracing. My only concern is it being too much on the wells where it's bolted to and having it start to rip.
Ted, have you had any problems with the fenders catching at the bottom?
I guess one could using an elongated hole in the frame for the pin and just have it slide forward first perhaps?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
My truck is still in pieces so I haven't tried it yet. And according the instructions that came with the hinge kit I bought you just add spacer blocks between the hood and fenders where you bolt them together to keep everything lined up/properly spaced. No need for any added frame work/structure. And I'm using the F600 fenders on mine.
I plan to cut off the very bottom rear section of my fenders ( the area that bolts to the running boards ). There shouldn't be any clearance issues once I do that. The worse thing I can see is the fenders could/will scratch the paint on the sides of the cab were they seat up against. I don't remember where I saw it but I saw a 53-56 F100 with a tilt front clip and the guy added stainless steel scratch guards to the cab. With the front clip closed you couldn't see them but you could when you opened it.
I plan to cut off the very bottom rear section of my fenders ( the area that bolts to the running boards ). There shouldn't be any clearance issues once I do that. The worse thing I can see is the fenders could/will scratch the paint on the sides of the cab were they seat up against. I don't remember where I saw it but I saw a 53-56 F100 with a tilt front clip and the guy added stainless steel scratch guards to the cab. With the front clip closed you couldn't see them but you could when you opened it.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
One thing you definately need to do if you are bolting hinges to the air deflector is install some sort of reinforcement to it or it will tear.
Pictures:
Also, here is the picture of the back of my fender with the thick welt. The top one is how it sits when I lower it and it just contacts the top of the running board. You can see how little space there is between the fender and the cab. The black mark on the cab is just dirt and oil that gets stopped at teh welt - it washes off with 409 and water. I just get out and tuck it in behind the running board as in the second photo. There is no contact between the fender and cab as the front raises or lowers until I tuck it in then the contact is made by the welt only. The tension of the running board front point pushing in on the bottom of the fender keeps the fender pressed snuggly up against the cab. There is no movement, rattling, or exhaust blow by or paint scratching of any kind.
Final pic is from the top down. Note the small gap between the back of the fender and running board. Also, not the point of contact where the hook in the running board holds the fender in. There is a 2" wide piece of rubber sheet glued to the back surface of the fender between it and th erunning board. It is at teh contact point with the running board. I'm not sure the F-100 fenders are curved enough to do this. It seems to me that front edge is more diagonal and less curved.
Note also that with this type of carrier, the hood lifts over the frame and there is no need to cut it for clearance. When fully up, the front valance is about 1 inch from the top of the front bumper
Finally are the two pics of the roller and clasp I saw on the 47 Chevy - very simple.
The gray under the bracket is the concrete below - it's hard to tell. This is welded onto the front edge of the running board. The black strip onthe front of the running board is the velcro pad.
Pictures:
Also, here is the picture of the back of my fender with the thick welt. The top one is how it sits when I lower it and it just contacts the top of the running board. You can see how little space there is between the fender and the cab. The black mark on the cab is just dirt and oil that gets stopped at teh welt - it washes off with 409 and water. I just get out and tuck it in behind the running board as in the second photo. There is no contact between the fender and cab as the front raises or lowers until I tuck it in then the contact is made by the welt only. The tension of the running board front point pushing in on the bottom of the fender keeps the fender pressed snuggly up against the cab. There is no movement, rattling, or exhaust blow by or paint scratching of any kind.
Final pic is from the top down. Note the small gap between the back of the fender and running board. Also, not the point of contact where the hook in the running board holds the fender in. There is a 2" wide piece of rubber sheet glued to the back surface of the fender between it and th erunning board. It is at teh contact point with the running board. I'm not sure the F-100 fenders are curved enough to do this. It seems to me that front edge is more diagonal and less curved.
Note also that with this type of carrier, the hood lifts over the frame and there is no need to cut it for clearance. When fully up, the front valance is about 1 inch from the top of the front bumper
Finally are the two pics of the roller and clasp I saw on the 47 Chevy - very simple.
The gray under the bracket is the concrete below - it's hard to tell. This is welded onto the front edge of the running board. The black strip onthe front of the running board is the velcro pad.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 1
From: Yountville Ca
inner fender tearing?
Hey Stephen
You asked if I have noticed any tearing of the inner fenders? I havent seen anything like that yet. And it all seems stable to me, but its hard to compare "what I have" with "what I could have" if I did it different. Do you know what I mean? I would say that so far I don't see any problem--10 years down the road? I dont know about that. The inner fenders are trimmed so they don't extend to the firewall as OEM would and they are welded as one piece with the entire hood. The weight of the front tilt is "heavy". I don't know the weight in pounds etc--but its heavy so i guess something could tear at some point in the future, but I dont see anything yet. The weight is supported at 4 place-2 points at the fenders near the luggage clasps-if you look you can see the short pieces of "hood welt? or whatever its called" that I've glued as "cushion". And the other two places are at the 2 front pins of the hinges that go through the boxed frame. The hinges are each bolted to the innerfenders with 4 large bolts--3/8 I think. I can't see how or where it would tear. But that's me. I'm not an engineer--I get lots of things wrong but I don't see!! it happening. I hope that answers your question. And of course I don't put lots of miles on this truck. I just drive it for fun after digging through the couch for gas money. When I'm driving people often ask "where ya going?". I always answer "I'm on my way to the gas station". Its not a high mileage truck or one that will ever be--So maybe that could be a factor too. How are you gonna be using your truck?
Goodluck Tom
You asked if I have noticed any tearing of the inner fenders? I havent seen anything like that yet. And it all seems stable to me, but its hard to compare "what I have" with "what I could have" if I did it different. Do you know what I mean? I would say that so far I don't see any problem--10 years down the road? I dont know about that. The inner fenders are trimmed so they don't extend to the firewall as OEM would and they are welded as one piece with the entire hood. The weight of the front tilt is "heavy". I don't know the weight in pounds etc--but its heavy so i guess something could tear at some point in the future, but I dont see anything yet. The weight is supported at 4 place-2 points at the fenders near the luggage clasps-if you look you can see the short pieces of "hood welt? or whatever its called" that I've glued as "cushion". And the other two places are at the 2 front pins of the hinges that go through the boxed frame. The hinges are each bolted to the innerfenders with 4 large bolts--3/8 I think. I can't see how or where it would tear. But that's me. I'm not an engineer--I get lots of things wrong but I don't see!! it happening. I hope that answers your question. And of course I don't put lots of miles on this truck. I just drive it for fun after digging through the couch for gas money. When I'm driving people often ask "where ya going?". I always answer "I'm on my way to the gas station". Its not a high mileage truck or one that will ever be--So maybe that could be a factor too. How are you gonna be using your truck?
Goodluck Tom
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Thanks Julie, that gives me some neat ideas with holding it in place...
Tom, sounds about right, most people that I've talked to that have done this without the inner fenders often mention it beind very flimsy without any support under neath. I may just have to make something, I guess we'll see.
I plan on using it for a daily driver, going 4x4 with it. Since I'm going to be under the hood a lot to swap out basicly everything and it would all have to come off anyways to do the axle and engine, I figured I would make it a front tilt like I had already been planning, just now instead of later. Being able to open the front and reach anywhere with easy will make my life a lot easier, even just taking the front clip off by removing a couple pins.
Not sure if I want to weld it together yet, honestly I don't know if would really make any difference if I ever did have to replace a fender or something, I mean after all it would take some more grinding but I may never have to, and if I had to really replace something and not just hammer it out I have a feeling the whole truck would be totalled at that point and it wouldn't make one lick of a difference. The only thing I can see it effecting is if I ever want to go back to the standard hood opening, and the only way I see myself going back would be if this just went horribly, horribly wrong, lol. And besides, welds can be removed, if I do bolt's I'd have a bunch of holes I'd have to fill to look right anyways. Either way I guess it would be a pain.
Tom, sounds about right, most people that I've talked to that have done this without the inner fenders often mention it beind very flimsy without any support under neath. I may just have to make something, I guess we'll see.
I plan on using it for a daily driver, going 4x4 with it. Since I'm going to be under the hood a lot to swap out basicly everything and it would all have to come off anyways to do the axle and engine, I figured I would make it a front tilt like I had already been planning, just now instead of later. Being able to open the front and reach anywhere with easy will make my life a lot easier, even just taking the front clip off by removing a couple pins.
Not sure if I want to weld it together yet, honestly I don't know if would really make any difference if I ever did have to replace a fender or something, I mean after all it would take some more grinding but I may never have to, and if I had to really replace something and not just hammer it out I have a feeling the whole truck would be totalled at that point and it wouldn't make one lick of a difference. The only thing I can see it effecting is if I ever want to go back to the standard hood opening, and the only way I see myself going back would be if this just went horribly, horribly wrong, lol. And besides, welds can be removed, if I do bolt's I'd have a bunch of holes I'd have to fill to look right anyways. Either way I guess it would be a pain.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 1
From: Yountville Ca
4x4
Hey Stephen
I'm sure you've given this lots of thought and I wonder if its gonna be "real" 4x4 off road stuff or just the occassional snowy strip of road, because to me--and its just me of course, but if I were gonna go over rough terrian--I would prefer to have the OEM front sheetmetal.
I couldn't imagine my tilt front end being a good choice for "jarring" off road use etc. It seems to me that the OEM outer fenders,inner fenders, hood attachment etc is all structurally the stongest way to go and I "believe" the most durable. Saying that--I'm sure there are off road modded trucks with tilts, but I don't think personally that I'd do that.
But that's just me. Not them. And not you. We all should and do make our own decisions.
I've got a good "go get the firewood truck". And its not my tilt front 58. The tilt front 58 gets "babied".
So whatever you decide will be good and doable-tilt or not-but talking about "undoing" the tilt sounds like a difficult project. Me personally I think of going to a tilt--as a "commitment". I would think one wouldn't want to expect to be able to "untilt it". Not that anything can't be undone, but I don't think its an alternative that you'd be happy with.
Personally I don't think getting a motor in and out of a OEM truck is all that hard. Its not like one does it regularly-normally. And since you're rebuilding this truck anyway you could just forget the tilt and remove all the front sheet metal for your build etc--Work on the motor etc-with sheet metal removed and then put it all back on when your finished.
I guess my reasons for going to the tilt was mostly because the sheet metal was so badly damaged on my 58 that I just thought the job of repairing everything plus bad rust etc would be easier and more stable if I just made the whole thing one piece. My truck had been off roaded by a family of growing boys for decades--it was a mess--but I know they had fun.
So I think its a big decision to go "tilt" and whatever you decide will be good.
Goodluck Tom
I'm sure you've given this lots of thought and I wonder if its gonna be "real" 4x4 off road stuff or just the occassional snowy strip of road, because to me--and its just me of course, but if I were gonna go over rough terrian--I would prefer to have the OEM front sheetmetal.
I couldn't imagine my tilt front end being a good choice for "jarring" off road use etc. It seems to me that the OEM outer fenders,inner fenders, hood attachment etc is all structurally the stongest way to go and I "believe" the most durable. Saying that--I'm sure there are off road modded trucks with tilts, but I don't think personally that I'd do that.
But that's just me. Not them. And not you. We all should and do make our own decisions.
I've got a good "go get the firewood truck". And its not my tilt front 58. The tilt front 58 gets "babied".
So whatever you decide will be good and doable-tilt or not-but talking about "undoing" the tilt sounds like a difficult project. Me personally I think of going to a tilt--as a "commitment". I would think one wouldn't want to expect to be able to "untilt it". Not that anything can't be undone, but I don't think its an alternative that you'd be happy with.
Personally I don't think getting a motor in and out of a OEM truck is all that hard. Its not like one does it regularly-normally. And since you're rebuilding this truck anyway you could just forget the tilt and remove all the front sheet metal for your build etc--Work on the motor etc-with sheet metal removed and then put it all back on when your finished.
I guess my reasons for going to the tilt was mostly because the sheet metal was so badly damaged on my 58 that I just thought the job of repairing everything plus bad rust etc would be easier and more stable if I just made the whole thing one piece. My truck had been off roaded by a family of growing boys for decades--it was a mess--but I know they had fun.
So I think its a big decision to go "tilt" and whatever you decide will be good.
Goodluck Tom
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
While th euse of th einner fenders surely adds weight, it also adds material to share in support of the whole front, and helps distribute the stresses that are imparted on the front. In my design, the air deflector had to absorb the entire torquing moment of the weight of the front and thus I think the tearing. But, my front does not have the inner fenders (no room withthe engine and exhaust I have) so it is VERY light - relatively speaking. When I reengined, I was able to get under it and lift it up on my back and walk it around to move it. So, less than 85 pounds I would think.
Even though you may not be considering changing out the engine more than once, I would definately consider the ease of access to the engine compartment for routine maintenance.
Also, I would not weld the panels together. If you get hit or have a problem, replacement will be very difficult. Mine is all bolted together and any part of it can be changed out in a matter of minutes. The original sheet metal works really well.
Just food for thought.....Heres a few more pics:
This fender swap took me four hours for both sides - and I reinforced all the bolt ups with new stainless hardware at the time and undercoated as well.
I like Toms Set up it looks really solid and strong!
Even though you may not be considering changing out the engine more than once, I would definately consider the ease of access to the engine compartment for routine maintenance.
Also, I would not weld the panels together. If you get hit or have a problem, replacement will be very difficult. Mine is all bolted together and any part of it can be changed out in a matter of minutes. The original sheet metal works really well.
Just food for thought.....Heres a few more pics:
This fender swap took me four hours for both sides - and I reinforced all the bolt ups with new stainless hardware at the time and undercoated as well.
I like Toms Set up it looks really solid and strong!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
The hinges I've got don't require any added reinforcements for the air deflectors. It's a single bolt on each side and it goes thru 2 or 3 panels not just the air delfectors. The hinges have 4 bolt holes for each inner fender panel. And then a 5th bolt that either goes thru the inner fender panel mounting flange and air deflector. Or the inner fender flange, air deflector and front valance. I don't remember for sure it's been a year or so since I had it all mocked up. You can add braces but you are also adding more weight.
I'm just saying you don't need to unless you really want to.
I'm definitely bolting my front clip together, not welding it. I want to be able to easily replace any of the panels if I need to.
For me my truck is going to be a 4x4. So it's going to sit up quite a bit higher then a stock F100. So the tilt front clip will make life much easier for any work on the truck. No need for a step ladder and leaning over the fenders struggling to reach anything.
I'm just saying you don't need to unless you really want to.I'm definitely bolting my front clip together, not welding it. I want to be able to easily replace any of the panels if I need to.
For me my truck is going to be a 4x4. So it's going to sit up quite a bit higher then a stock F100. So the tilt front clip will make life much easier for any work on the truck. No need for a step ladder and leaning over the fenders struggling to reach anything.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
My truck is to be a business truck, but not something I am goign to beat to death. I'm a blacksmith artist and as such I need to arrive in style, lol. I want the 4x4 mainly for snow, not for doing anything in the mountains, if I was going to do that I'd get an old jeep and not worry about beating it up. The other reason is I GREATLY perfer the stance of a 4x4, specificly one with huge wheels and as low of a ride as possible. The F-600 is actually pretty perfect for most of that, it already has wheels on it that are in the 36" range, even though I'm going to switch those parts out, it at least lets me see how everything is going to fit right now.
I think I'll probably do some bracing over using the inner fenders, mainly because I am planning something neat with my hood and it would obscure the view from the underside when it's open. Plus I am almost certain that I would at least 4 dozen times crack my head on the inner fender, lol.
Ted, what are you planning as far as ride height and wheels? Just curious (lol I've been set on what I want for many, many years)
I think I'll probably do some bracing over using the inner fenders, mainly because I am planning something neat with my hood and it would obscure the view from the underside when it's open. Plus I am almost certain that I would at least 4 dozen times crack my head on the inner fender, lol.
Ted, what are you planning as far as ride height and wheels? Just curious (lol I've been set on what I want for many, many years)
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
I'm still up in the air as to which chassis I'm going to run. Whatever it is it will be stock ride height for the chassis ( no lift ).
If the chassis is a 3/4 ton I'll be running 235/85/16's. That's the size all my other trucks are running. I like being able to swap tires from truck to truck.
If the chassis is a Bronco or half ton chassis then I'll be running some 15" tires. They will be either 31", 33" or 35" at he max. This truck is going to be my year round daily driver so no huge 44's or anything like that.
Oh yea and no matter what the size is they are going to be BFG A/T's those are the only new tires I buy for my trucks.
If the chassis is a 3/4 ton I'll be running 235/85/16's. That's the size all my other trucks are running. I like being able to swap tires from truck to truck.
If the chassis is a Bronco or half ton chassis then I'll be running some 15" tires. They will be either 31", 33" or 35" at he max. This truck is going to be my year round daily driver so no huge 44's or anything like that.
Oh yea and no matter what the size is they are going to be BFG A/T's those are the only new tires I buy for my trucks.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
From: East Texas
I've been reading a few threads and have found this one to be the most complete up to now.
These helped :
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...front-end.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...some-help.html
This thread seems to be one of the most complete for what I'm thinking about.
Hopefully even though this thread is a couple years old I hope some can give me some pointers. I'm leaning toward the full fiberglass front because the fenders on my F1 need to be replaced. The cost of these fenders plus the advantage of a tilt front for access to the motor for repairs and adjustments made me decide this is a necessary change.
This is the kit I found to be the most economical including shipping costs is from Midwest Early Ford.
Does anybody have any experience with this front? Anybody have any suggestions about any others out there?
These helped :
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...front-end.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...some-help.html
This thread seems to be one of the most complete for what I'm thinking about.
Hopefully even though this thread is a couple years old I hope some can give me some pointers. I'm leaning toward the full fiberglass front because the fenders on my F1 need to be replaced. The cost of these fenders plus the advantage of a tilt front for access to the motor for repairs and adjustments made me decide this is a necessary change.
This is the kit I found to be the most economical including shipping costs is from Midwest Early Ford.
Does anybody have any experience with this front? Anybody have any suggestions about any others out there?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,717
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Fordman75
Ted,
I realize this is an old post BUT Do you still have the instructions for your tilt hing installation? I bought some 25 years ago and still have them uninstalled. Time, age, rats who knows but I can't find the instructions to install them. Not too familiar with how this site works to find your e-mail to contact you directly.
Ted,
I realize this is an old post BUT Do you still have the instructions for your tilt hing installation? I bought some 25 years ago and still have them uninstalled. Time, age, rats who knows but I can't find the instructions to install them. Not too familiar with how this site works to find your e-mail to contact you directly.