Cleaning a K&N filter
#1
#2
If it's new you shouldnt need to clean it for about 6 months give or take. You can buy a cleaning kit from any autoparts store. There are instructions with the kit, but just spray it with the cleaner and let it soak for about ten minutes then rinse with the hose. Once it's dry just apply the aeorsol oil evenly around the filter. I'm sure others have different methods of cleaning them too.
http://www.modtopperformance.com/Per...aning_kit1.jpg
http://www.modtopperformance.com/Per...aning_kit1.jpg
#3
x2 with what he said
the cleaning kit is $15 at almost all parts stores.
use it, and blast that filter with your garden hose and let it sit out in the sun for a few hours to dry out afterwards.
ONLY USE THE MINIMUM AMOUNT OF OIL YOU HAVE TO when re-oiling the filter. too much oil will cause it to entrain and the MAF will get gunked up...and then the truck will run like crap until you clean it
the cleaning kit is $15 at almost all parts stores.
use it, and blast that filter with your garden hose and let it sit out in the sun for a few hours to dry out afterwards.
ONLY USE THE MINIMUM AMOUNT OF OIL YOU HAVE TO when re-oiling the filter. too much oil will cause it to entrain and the MAF will get gunked up...and then the truck will run like crap until you clean it
#4
No need to spend $15 on a cleaning kit. Regular old Ivory dish soap works just as well. Run it back and forth through a bucket of dish soap and some scalding hot water a few times to cut the dirt and oil residue, then rinse it off with some more hot water and repeat as necessary and you're good. You can blow it dry with some compressed air, but don’t hold it so close that you’re going to damage the cotton elements. Otherwise, if you’ve got the time, just let it drip dry.
When the time comes for you to re-apply the oil, don’t over-oil it (make sure it’s fully covered, but not dripping wet) and only saturate the outside layers of the filter. The engine vacuum will handle drawing it through to the other side when the time comes to cover the remainder.
When the time comes for you to re-apply the oil, don’t over-oil it (make sure it’s fully covered, but not dripping wet) and only saturate the outside layers of the filter. The engine vacuum will handle drawing it through to the other side when the time comes to cover the remainder.
#5
Okay, thanks everyone. I now have a few options and a much better understanding on what I need to do to clean the filter. I do plan to check out the cleaning kit, however, after looking it over if it looks like nothing more then and rinse and dry solution I may try the ivory soap solution.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#6
#7
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#8
The directions said to oil it and let it sit for a like an hour or so then to put the vent on.
If you let it sit for a bit, it the excess oil won't find its way onto an sensors.
#9
#10
I think before you get too far down the road with your K&N filter you should check out the link below. This is actual test data so you can understand what you are doing to your motor by using a K&N or any other reusable filter. Bottom line: our trucks do not require the amount of air flow that these filters allow, and more air flow through the given element area = more dirt through the element. By washing the element you only damage it. It would be nice to see the ISO test show results from reusable filters that have been washed several times. Good Luck.
ISO 5011 Duramax Air Filter Test Report
ISO 5011 Duramax Air Filter Test Report
#11
The filters do in fact come pre oiled. The filter when pre-oiled is pink and looks like it was soaked in transmission fluid. The filter element itself when dry (clean) is a white in colour.
The filter itself isn't what catches and traps the dirt, but the combination of the filter and the oil together. As stated above, improvements (horsepower gains) seen from a filter alone may in fact be negligible, but there's no question that the oiled cotton filter element utilized on the K&N filters much more efficiently than the stock paper filter a factory vehicle is saddled with.
What also needs to be considered is the considerable increase in surface area between the stock Motorcraft paper unit and the K&N. In some cases, K&N filters have been known to encompass 4 and 5 times the filterable surface area over a stock paper unit.
The filter itself isn't what catches and traps the dirt, but the combination of the filter and the oil together. As stated above, improvements (horsepower gains) seen from a filter alone may in fact be negligible, but there's no question that the oiled cotton filter element utilized on the K&N filters much more efficiently than the stock paper filter a factory vehicle is saddled with.
What also needs to be considered is the considerable increase in surface area between the stock Motorcraft paper unit and the K&N. In some cases, K&N filters have been known to encompass 4 and 5 times the filterable surface area over a stock paper unit.
#12
one in my stangs more a greyish color than a white when its "cleaned" till i respray it with red oil...
i tend to let mine sit for 2 hrs after its been oiled... instructions say 1.. but i go for 2 just to be on the safe site...
wouldnt believe how many people ive heard say k&N ruins the maf from that... most times i think its more user error of over oiling the things than it happening from right outta the box...
btw when you go to clean it dont make the mistake i did and clean it in the bath tub... i got yelled at for the red ring stain around the tub lol... it eventually came up.. but had a pink tub for a couple days lol
btw when you go to clean it dont make the mistake i did and clean it in the bath tub... i got yelled at for the red ring stain around the tub lol... it eventually came up.. but had a pink tub for a couple days lol
#13
one in my stangs more a greyish color than a white when its "cleaned" till i respray it with red oil...
i tend to let mine sit for 2 hrs after its been oiled... instructions say 1.. but i go for 2 just to be on the safe site...
wouldnt believe how many people ive heard say k&N ruins the maf from that... most times i think its more user error of over oiling the things than it happening from right outta the box...
btw when you go to clean it dont make the mistake i did and clean it in the bath tub... i got yelled at for the red ring stain around the tub lol... it eventually came up.. but had a pink tub for a couple days lol
i tend to let mine sit for 2 hrs after its been oiled... instructions say 1.. but i go for 2 just to be on the safe site...
wouldnt believe how many people ive heard say k&N ruins the maf from that... most times i think its more user error of over oiling the things than it happening from right outta the box...
btw when you go to clean it dont make the mistake i did and clean it in the bath tub... i got yelled at for the red ring stain around the tub lol... it eventually came up.. but had a pink tub for a couple days lol
Shawn you rock.
#14
"The filter itself isn't what catches and traps the dirt, but the combination of the filter and the oil together. As stated above, improvements (horsepower gains) seen from a filter alone may in fact be negligible, but there's no question that the oiled cotton filter element utilized on the K&N filters much more efficiently than the stock paper filter a factory vehicle is saddled with."
So I take it, you did not look at the test report. K&N is less efficient. Take a look at graph 5 "Dirt Passed v.s. Total Test Time". It states "Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt" What part of this shows that a K&N is more efficient that a stock paper filter? Sorry, I will stick to my stock Motorcraft filter.
So I take it, you did not look at the test report. K&N is less efficient. Take a look at graph 5 "Dirt Passed v.s. Total Test Time". It states "Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt" What part of this shows that a K&N is more efficient that a stock paper filter? Sorry, I will stick to my stock Motorcraft filter.
#15