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Can someone explain how to adjust my clutch on my f250?
I got a rebuild job and a new clutch, thraw bearing and the spring device(I can't remember the name). Under the car is a rod(maybe 9/16" bolt threaded) about 6" long(I believe) that has a nut on one end pressed against a shield to keep the rod stable. In the center of the rod is another nut. I'm not sure if the nut separates two rods together or if it is only one rod. Anyway, the clutch was very stiff at first. I could not shift in some gears. When I loosened the center nut, the gears shifted but were grinding hard.
Is there a medium where the nut should be turned? Someone told me the clutch pedal should not go more than a couple of inches in when pressed. My pedal goes at least 6" all the way to the floor.
I just got mine done yesterday. To get the clutch to actually engage all the way I had to extend the little adjuster rod. the medium you spoke of is true, but it is different for every clutch. the difference between my old clutch and the new was over an inch on the screw. Good luck--Nick
what you need is enough engagement to release the clutch, but some free play at the pedal to make sure the clutch isn't engage all the time. When you push on the pedal, does it mover say 1/2 inch before you feel any resistance?? It should. The two nuts should be next to each other as a lock nut. It keeps them from moving whenyou don't want it to.
The clutch pedal should only go down 1-1/2" before engaging the throw-out bearing. How are your cab mounts? If they are bad it will throw the clutch adjustment way out.
I'm not sure what the cab mounts are, but if you are refering to the metal ball covered in rubber that is mounted to the engine and pivots when the clutch is engaged, it is peeling apart.
That is not what I meant but all of the linkages and pivots points in the clutch "system" must be tight or your clutch pedal travel will be excessive in order to compensate for all of this slop. The cab mounts connect the cab to the frame. When the front cab mounts rust out then the cab sags. This condition will create additional clutch pedal travel. It usually is so much that you can't get enough adjustment on the rod to allow the clutch to fully engage (hence the gears grind when you try to shift). Your symptoms suggest that you may have bad cab mounts. Look at the front cab mounts to see if that may be part of your problem.
Got the clutch to shift though the 1st gear grinds a little. Dont think it matters much because I will start in 2nd most of the time.
I had to loosen the two rods to their max. I dont think I can separate them any more without the nut separating from the connection. It will definitely work for now.
If there is any problem, please reply. The suggestions so far give me confidence.
I believe that 1st gear (in a 4sp) is not syncronized. I have a BorgWarner T18 (reverse over and up) and 1st and reverse I shift into from a stop slowly. I believe these gears are straight cut. Sometimes when I can't put into reverse, I roll an inch or two and/or slowly let clutch out while pushing on the shifter, this solves the problem.
The pivot rod from the frame rail to the side of the bellhousing has nylon bushings inside it. If these are worn you won't be able to set the clutch free play correctly. Mine was over 5 inches no matter what the adjustment rod was set at. Fortunately the local Ford dealership had these in stock for about $2.95 each. Its an easy fix, and the freeplay is now 1.5 inches.