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I'm wondering if, when changing out the block heater element above the oil filter housing, would using the vacuum cleaner technique of applying suction to the radiator cap opening, lessen the loss of my ELC coolant, when I remove the old one??
Seems that the coolant mass would be lighter than the oil mass that I held suspended by this method, when I installed the fumoto valve with a full crankcase.
Or are there more "leaks" in the coolant system that would prevent a vacuum from being formed??
Just take it out and put your new one in. I don't think I lost a cup of fluid when I did mine.
I know this SHOULD go w/o saying, but PTFE tape your new block heater BEFORE taking the old one out. This will definately limit your coolant losses.
I know this SHOULD go w/o saying, but PTFE tape your new block heater BEFORE taking the old one out.
X2 on the PTFE, but one thing to add... my experience with other projects requiring a sealing medium (PTFE and the like) is the "tape" finds it's way beyond the threads and can wind up in the system. I would use PTFE paste in lieu of tape. While the paste also can find its way into the system, the particle size is significantly smaller than strands of "tape".
Make sure the engine has cooled down. Did mine while still hot after reading that I would only lose a little fluid if any. Burned myself and lost about 4 gallons on the driveway. Not a happy camper. Should have known better.
H2GUY,
The more vacuum you have on the system certainly keeps more coolant from draining.
With the engine completely cooled, there should be much less pressure on the coolant side, hence reducing the internal pressure trying to push the coolant out.
As one other said, do have threads on the new unit preped with the thread sealant and make sure it is the threads on the heater element side.
You should be just fine.
True that. The tape can cause problems, but I never have a good feeling about using the liquid on a wet fitting. It just seems like it wouldn't seal as well as a good, dry fitting.
I have one more spare thought. IF THE TRUCK IS COLD shouldn't the coolant "want" to stay in the system? There is no way that air can get in to let it out quickly without going through the drain. It is like holding your gallon jug of oil straight up and down and not letting in any air.
Is there a way to test the heater element. I think mine is still working but when I cycle the key on in the truck I don't see the thermostat gauge go as high as I use to when I left the block heater on overnight. My truck is a 2000 and I live in Maine. I really need this to work when it's really cold (<20*F). Truck will still start without it but I don't like to cold sart the truck when it's that cold.
Is there a way to test the heater element. I think mine is still working but when I cycle the key on in the truck I don't see the thermostat gauge go as high as I use to when I left the block heater on overnight. My truck is a 2000 and I live in Maine. I really need this to work when it's really cold (<20*F). Truck will still start without it but I don't like to cold sart the truck when it's that cold.
To test it plug it in over night and see if things get warm.
The snow will melt right off the hood.
I can feel the heat from mine when I open the hood.
Your hoses also will feel warmer.
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