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help with tranny!

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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #1  
fishforlife2007's Avatar
fishforlife2007
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help with tranny!

ok. so this moring i go and fire my truck up. oh btw its a 95 f150 with the 4.9, and a 5sp. whenever i push the clutch pedal down to the floor it stays , and wont come back up. first i check the fluid which was a tad low so i add to it. still nothing. the pedal isnt coming back up when i have taken my foot off of it. im a loss for word since i drove it home last night fine. im in the process of letting it warm up now to see if that does anything. any suggestions guys? i have no idea what is going on. even when the clutch pedal is all the way down to the floor, i still cant engage into gear, since it starts to grind if i try to force it.help!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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BigBlueOx
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From: Rusty, Maine
Sounds like a bad clutch master.
There are no spots on the ground from fluid leaking?
Did you try pulling the pedal off the floor?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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fishforlife2007
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theres is snowy slush all over the ground here so i cant tell. i did try pulling the pedal off the floor and it will come up when you pull it back up, but when you push it down it will stay down... im just trying to figure out what it is since i start school back tomorro, and i need my truck to get me there and back.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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From: Rusty, Maine
Well lucky for you the clutch is a small system. It either the cluch master, slave, or broken line. My guess is the master because if it was a line the bottle would be empty. If it was the slave I think that would leak too and you'd have no fluid. I would try the master first. That's an afternoon job. If it's the slave and not leaking which is possible, then you'll have to pull the trany to change it. I sure like the rest of us you don't have a lot of money to just start throwing parts at it. So it would be nice if someone else would give you some input.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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fishforlife2007
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i hear ya on the money thing man... especially with tuition just paid, and then this happens.. but ya im open to any and all suggestions on the subject...i have located a slave for it, but the master would take a day to get...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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You did remove the rubber cup(diaphram) from under the cap before checking the fluid? Sorry it happens too often on these forums.

Otherwise it's probably the master cylinder or the linkage to it. If it was the slave cylinder, or the line, you'd likely be out of fluid.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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ha yes i did take it out.... so now yall are starting to lean towards the master cylinder? it was a tad low but i honestly dont even remember the last time i check the level in it before today...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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fishforlife2007
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ok..just got done putting a new master cylinder in and it still is at the floor, so it looks like i will be replacing the slave cylinder... do you think it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the clutch while i had it apart too, and is there anything else i should pay attention to while im in there?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Just my opinion unless you know how many miles are on the clutch I would be replacing it and looking at the rear main seal if its leaking replace it and they make a repair sleeve for the back of the crank in case it is grooved
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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how difficult is the rear main to do once i have everything torn apart...? ive never done a rear main before.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fishforlife2007
ok..just got done putting a new master cylinder in and it still is at the floor,
Did you bleed the system?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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got air in the the hydro system
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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how would i go about bleeding the system?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fishforlife2007
how would i go about bleeding the system?
I like to just gravity bleed it. Remove the cap and diaphram from the master cylinder. Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, and wait for the fluid to start flowing. Once the fluid starts flowing, make sure the master cylinder never goes dry. Leave the cap and diaphram off the master cylinder during the whole process so you don't create a vacuum lock. Let about 12 ounces of brake fluid just flow through, then tighten the bleeder screw. When you are done top off the master cylinder to the correct level and replace diaphram and cap.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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fishforlife2007
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where is this bleeder screw that you are talking about? i thought the sleave cylinder was located within the trans. bellhousing and that i must take it off???
 
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