bed removal
bed removal
I am new to the page so if you can help Please do so I need it
am I right to think that in order to remove the bed on my 2001 supercrew that it is the 6 bolts and the light wireing and then just lift it off
am I right to think that in order to remove the bed on my 2001 supercrew that it is the 6 bolts and the light wireing and then just lift it off
6 bolts, wiring, and unhook the gas filler neck. a new set of bolts and speed nuts will cost right about 115 plus tax. i had to replace some bolts recently because the previous owner had not put 3 back in. a 4th was loose and needed taken out. i found it was easier to just cut the top of the bolt off and then cut the speed nut. but try to remove the bolts first. if you can without cutting them that will save you money because they can only get you the bolts in a set of 6. (at least through ford)
I guess I'm lucky in the fact that I don't live where the roads are salted for the winter months. I've never had a problem getting bed bolts off any of my Fords. Mr. fordf150farmer covered all of the removal points well. Not sure about the Super Crew but my Super Cab had a clamp around the fuel filler hose that held it against a bracket made on the bottom of the bed.


Tried to remove the bed on a 2000 F150 to replace the fuel pump. Never did get the bed off. Ended up dropping the tank. Sheared off two T50 torx bits, broke off 1 bolt head and actually managed to remove 1 bolt out of 6 and I live in the south where people panic if they see one snow flake. If I bought a new F150 one of the first things I would do would be to remove the bed bolts and coat them with Never Seize. The alterative is to chizel the heads off and lift the bed off. The problem is after you do that you still have to get the bolt shanks out or cut the speed nuts too. Speed nuts is NOT the correct name for them when they are holding the bed down on a Ford truck. For the cost of those bolts I'd switch to stainless.
Ford puts Loctite on them........ like it's needed. A little penetrant days before hand, a good lick or two with a BFH (hammer) on the bolt heads and a stout impact wrench and they came on out........Guess I've just been lucky!!
The problem is you usually don't have a couple of days to let the truck sits idle soaking up PB Blaster if your fuel pump dies with a full tank of gas.
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part of the reason the bolts are so difficult is they actually cut their own threads into the nuts. ok this may be wrong but it sounded good in my head. the new bolts cut their own threads. so i would assume so did the originals. when i was looking for new bolts i was told by the guys at autozone and orielys to go to the hardware store and get stove bolts. so i went down there and it would have been way cheaper except the biggest ones they had werent even half the size of the ones on the truck. one guy even said he had recently done it with bolts from the store i went to. all i can say is i hope he is never rear ended cause if he is, he can say goodbye to that truck bed as it flys through the air.
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