98 Expedition engine woes
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98 Expedition engine woes
I have an XLT 4x4 w/ 190,000+ miles and recently the engine showed a check oil light. Since it only had 1700 miles since my last change, I was surprised to see nothing showing on the stick. I put 3.5 qts back in to get it back to normal, but then I noticed the coolant reservoir had black/brown goop coming out the top. When I smelled it, it was motor oil.
I checked the motor over and saw where it looked like it was leaking some down the back of the block on the the flywheel cover. Didn't appear to be much, so I drained the coolant, pulled the hoses and flushed the system as best as I could. Refilled everything and drove it for about 30 mins.
Coolant had turned brown again and oil level looked OK, so I took it to my local mechanic (ex-Ford ASE guy).
He calls me to say I have a head gasket leak and it is burning the extra oil. Gasket leak may be near an oil and water jacket, sucking oil into coolant, but he says leak down the back of motor is definitely gasket.
Says cheapest fix is replacement motor. He recommended I check with junkyards to see if I can locate one he would put in. I have the Romeo W code engine.
Best I have found so far is a 103,000 mile Expy motor for $1250. Does that sound reasonable?
Sorry for the long post, but I just need to see if I am barking up the wrong tree.
Thanks
I checked the motor over and saw where it looked like it was leaking some down the back of the block on the the flywheel cover. Didn't appear to be much, so I drained the coolant, pulled the hoses and flushed the system as best as I could. Refilled everything and drove it for about 30 mins.
Coolant had turned brown again and oil level looked OK, so I took it to my local mechanic (ex-Ford ASE guy).
He calls me to say I have a head gasket leak and it is burning the extra oil. Gasket leak may be near an oil and water jacket, sucking oil into coolant, but he says leak down the back of motor is definitely gasket.
Says cheapest fix is replacement motor. He recommended I check with junkyards to see if I can locate one he would put in. I have the Romeo W code engine.
Best I have found so far is a 103,000 mile Expy motor for $1250. Does that sound reasonable?
Sorry for the long post, but I just need to see if I am barking up the wrong tree.
Thanks
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I'd say the cheapest fix is to put a head gasket in, but I sure wouldn't buy a used engine with that mileage call ford ask abbout there reman engine I'm think about 2000 but it's new and it has 3 year 100,000 mile warranty
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From: Winston Salem
Where are you located? Thats about right for a used motor but the miles are kind of high[based on what I have been told by my guy] If you plan on keeping it for a while, I would put a reman in with a warranty. Who is to say you put that motor you mentioned in, spend about $1700-$2100 on it, then something happen? Better safe than sorry
Postmaster
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
The Ford reman is your best bet if you are planning on keeping the truck. The warrantee makes it so. I've heard many horror stories about people buying used engines or transmissions that don't last but a few days and some that are junk to begin with. The salvage yard will give a warrantee on the engine, usually "bring it back and we'll give you another one", but the mechanic has to be paid for the R & R again and that will add up quick. I'm pretty sure that the Ford reman policy includes labor at your mechanic's shop if the engine is not satisfactory. I also believe the warrantee is transferrable if you sell the truck while the warrantee is in effect.
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Thanks for the reply. I have been quoted a reman w/ 3yr 100,000 warranty, install p & l @ $5000...That sounded extreme vs. the used motor with install at $2000-$2500 total.
So I call another mechanic my company deals with and he quotes me almost the same price for the reman, plus tells me that I will probably need a new radiator to get rid of the oil in the coolant, since it has probably contaminated the radiator to the point that it won't be able to be flushed out.
Now I am really confused, since I thought I was going to keep the truck for awhile (3-4 years maybe)...but it won't be driven nearly as much as it used to. I hate to sink $4500-5000 in it for maybe 30-40,000 miles worth of driving.
Arrrgh!
So I call another mechanic my company deals with and he quotes me almost the same price for the reman, plus tells me that I will probably need a new radiator to get rid of the oil in the coolant, since it has probably contaminated the radiator to the point that it won't be able to be flushed out.
Now I am really confused, since I thought I was going to keep the truck for awhile (3-4 years maybe)...but it won't be driven nearly as much as it used to. I hate to sink $4500-5000 in it for maybe 30-40,000 miles worth of driving.
Arrrgh!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2008
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Thanks for the reply. I have been quoted a reman w/ 3yr 100,000 warranty, install p & l @ $5000...That sounded extreme vs. the used motor with install at $2000-$2500 total.
So I call another mechanic my company deals with and he quotes me almost the same price for the reman, plus tells me that I will probably need a new radiator to get rid of the oil in the coolant, since it has probably contaminated the radiator to the point that it won't be able to be flushed out.
Now I am really confused, since I thought I was going to keep the truck for awhile (3-4 years maybe)...but it won't be driven nearly as much as it used to. I hate to sink $4500-5000 in it for maybe 30-40,000 miles worth of driving.
Arrrgh!
So I call another mechanic my company deals with and he quotes me almost the same price for the reman, plus tells me that I will probably need a new radiator to get rid of the oil in the coolant, since it has probably contaminated the radiator to the point that it won't be able to be flushed out.
Now I am really confused, since I thought I was going to keep the truck for awhile (3-4 years maybe)...but it won't be driven nearly as much as it used to. I hate to sink $4500-5000 in it for maybe 30-40,000 miles worth of driving.
Arrrgh!
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Illinois
I don't know where you live, but here is Iowa I got a 98 crown vic engine with 70k mikes on it for $300.
just had to swap over timing cover, intake and oil pan.
ask around about your salvage yards, they are not that big a risk, if they sold junk for too long they'd be out of business.
if your mechanic is any good at all, he'd know where to get a good used one and be able to identify any problems long before the engine gets installed into the truck.
also I would think head gaskets would be the easiest/cheapest way to go. it took me 30 hours to change my engine, that's why there is $2000/$2500 in labor cost. I would think head gaskets would be a 8-10 hour job at most.
I'm pretty sure for $4500 to $5000 you can buy a different truck and be rolling again today
reman engine may be the best way to go but not the smartest in my opinion. too much $$$$ for a 12 year old truck
also you can flush the radiator with powdered dish washing soap, the kind for a electric dishwasher, this will clean that radiator spotless. you use this soap because it doesn't foam up and is designed not to leave a film. it works, I've done it several times. use very hot water
just had to swap over timing cover, intake and oil pan.
ask around about your salvage yards, they are not that big a risk, if they sold junk for too long they'd be out of business.
if your mechanic is any good at all, he'd know where to get a good used one and be able to identify any problems long before the engine gets installed into the truck.
also I would think head gaskets would be the easiest/cheapest way to go. it took me 30 hours to change my engine, that's why there is $2000/$2500 in labor cost. I would think head gaskets would be a 8-10 hour job at most.
I'm pretty sure for $4500 to $5000 you can buy a different truck and be rolling again today
reman engine may be the best way to go but not the smartest in my opinion. too much $$$$ for a 12 year old truck
also you can flush the radiator with powdered dish washing soap, the kind for a electric dishwasher, this will clean that radiator spotless. you use this soap because it doesn't foam up and is designed not to leave a film. it works, I've done it several times. use very hot water
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OK, I live in KY. I will try the Ford dealer to see what they quote, but my mechanic is usually way cheaper than them. Also, as far as a used one to replace it, I have been looking for about 3 months, even before I had the problems and around here (100 mile radius), I would be buying someone elses problems, since all the $4500 to $5000 Expy's are 150,000+ miles or salvage- yeah I said salvage for that price on 10 year old Expeditions, crazy stuff! That's using Autotrader, ebay, newspapers, etc...
At least I know that I have kept everything else up to date on the suspension, brakes, etc. so I know this truck.
As far as the soap in the radiator, I will definitely look at that option!
On the car to truck engine swap, both machanics basically said they wouldn't fool with swapping anything unless is was a straight up engine for engine, otherwise no guarantee on the work. I suppose that's just to keep them out of lawsuits???
I appreciate the feedback.
At least I know that I have kept everything else up to date on the suspension, brakes, etc. so I know this truck.
As far as the soap in the radiator, I will definitely look at that option!
On the car to truck engine swap, both machanics basically said they wouldn't fool with swapping anything unless is was a straight up engine for engine, otherwise no guarantee on the work. I suppose that's just to keep them out of lawsuits???
I appreciate the feedback.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Unless things have changed recently Ford has no problem with you or your mechanic doing the engine installation. Check with the parts person, They have told me that the warrantee will be honored regardless of who installs it.
There will be a pretty steep refundable core charge, so if you get the Ford reman you might want to have the core with you when you pick up the new engine and it must be the correct engine for your truck, they usually check the VIN and/or codes. Also make sure your mechanic knows that the easiest way to change the engine is to lift the body off the frame using a two post lift, that will take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours but the rest is a piece of cake for a decent mechanic.
There will be a pretty steep refundable core charge, so if you get the Ford reman you might want to have the core with you when you pick up the new engine and it must be the correct engine for your truck, they usually check the VIN and/or codes. Also make sure your mechanic knows that the easiest way to change the engine is to lift the body off the frame using a two post lift, that will take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours but the rest is a piece of cake for a decent mechanic.
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OK, thanks for all the advice.
As it stands, Ford was no help at all. After much consideration, I have decided to put the money I was going to spend into something else. My wife has me looking for a decent used car she can drive for the carpool/grocery getter/etc...something with better fuel mileage and a little smoother on the backside.
I am going to keep the truck and probably try to tackle some of the suggestions once the weather becomes more favorable.
Again, thanks for the help. I feel like your advice kept me from throwing money down the drain.
As it stands, Ford was no help at all. After much consideration, I have decided to put the money I was going to spend into something else. My wife has me looking for a decent used car she can drive for the carpool/grocery getter/etc...something with better fuel mileage and a little smoother on the backside.
I am going to keep the truck and probably try to tackle some of the suggestions once the weather becomes more favorable.
Again, thanks for the help. I feel like your advice kept me from throwing money down the drain.
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