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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Engine questions

So I did what all of you told me to do on this site and i am sticking with the original frame and look on my F3. Well i have the engine almost completly apart but i can not get the horse shoe clip and the guide. i have read online the directions and the went to the shop to try them and it didnt work. I also cant get the oil pump out of the block. i have the crank, pistons, valves, lifters, cam and springs all out i just need to get the things out so i can hot tank it and magnaflux it at school. i took the plate with i think 6 bolts off the back and i see were the cam gear on the rear would turn a gear and then the oil pump gear i do believe... i think that is how it goes. Any information will help out alot!!!
thanx mitch
 

Last edited by mitchf2506.0; Jan 9, 2010 at 04:18 PM. Reason: Surgery on wednesday and i need to get it abart before then.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 03:15 AM
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Mitch,

The guides in these old flatties tend to stick into the block after several decades. It's not uncommon for the methods in the shop manual to fail to work. Often the only recourse is to do exactly what you've already done and dismantle each valve assembly in place in the block so that there is nothing left but the guide and horseshoe. Sometimes to get those pieces out you need to resort to a little violence. They will drive straight out into the valve galley with a hammer and a drift. Give them a good soak with penetrating oil for about a day first. If you are really set on reusing them, then you're going to have to get a brass drift so you don't ruin the top of them. If you are going to get new ones, then it really doesn't matter much. Slip the drift in through the valve opening so that it sits on top of the guide and give it a few good, hard cracks with a heavy hammer. Once it starts moving, it shouldn't take much more to drive it on out. Just be careful not to gouge or chip the block. Sometimes they're in there tight enough that saving them just isn't possible and they have to be sacrificed. Better them than the block. Guides are cheap and easy to get. Blocks are not.


As for the oil pump, there is only one little bolt holding it in place and that's it. I have heard of them becoming stuck in the block like the valve guides, though. I suggest generous amounts of penetrating oil and possibly a big pipe wrench to twist it back and forth if it still refuses to move. If the pump is really stubborn, you'll have to use force. As with the guides, the block is what you need to focus on saving. Don't get all eaten up about saving the pump. It's much cheaper and easier to replace than a flathead block - and probably a good idea anyway.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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Ya i have no intentions of reusing and of the valve parts. I will buy all new parts. I guess i will try to beat out the oild pump some how, without damaging the block.
thanx
mitch
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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I wouldn't throw any original parts out! They were very high quality.

It won't hurt to tank the block with the guides in, and it may break them loose. Most tank setups now use hot caustic and it's very good at breaking up varnish. Just make sure nothing gets lost in the tank (the clips for instance).

If you have any thoughts of ever doing a "90% full flow" oil system (external canister oil filter) this is the time. This is the general idea; you need to drill another hole in the oil galley at the rear of the block and either use the piece shown or do something similar with a pipe plug. At any rate, you want to do it before you vat, or else vat twice. (Canadian blocks usually already have the "extra" hole needed).
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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If i am not mistaken i am pretty sure that it already had and oil filter and housing externaly. i pulled off a piece that had oil lines running to it and when i unthreded the top of it there was a filter with what looked like oil to me and an oil filter. i can take some pics of what i think it is and post them on here if i can figure it out.

thanx
mitch
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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That's the factory-optional bypass filter, it bleeds off a sidestream and returns it to the oil pan. The system I showed above is a full-flow system like other modern cars.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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If i am reading the diagram right i am looking at the back left of the engine? do i drill into that oil gally in the valley bellow the valves? is this something that i HAVE to do or is it highly recomended? how many people do it? sorry that i dont know alot about these flat heads. i am a diesel guy.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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You also may want to try some heat along with the penetrating oil to brake the parts loose.

Kevin
LFD Inc.
 
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