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Sending unit is on the front of the motor, passenger side behind the alt. bracket.
Yep...I found it. Unfortunately the wires are long gone. I'll save that for another day. I DO want to get my instrument panel temp gauge working.
So for the good news!
I drained the coolant and pulled off the t-stat housing. Pfft...NO t-stat. So I get a 195 deg t-stat and gasket, install it, fire it up...no leaks.
Now, my aftermarket temp gauge works perfectly AND as a bonus? MY HEATER WORKS!! I've got toasty warm HEAT!
I watched the temp gauge after starting up. After about 5 min it shot right to 195 when the t-stat opened, then slowly dropped to about 180 where it stayed most of the time. I noticed after driving around, parking, and shutting it off, the temp went as high as 210. But as soon as I started it up, it went back down to 180.
So, the t-stat was the problem with the heater core not getting warm and probably the engine never getting up to operating temp.
Thats great news, the benefit of haveing a temp gauge @ the thermostat housing is you know when you have a problem with your thermostat. One story that may be of interest for you, on my FE motor the instrument temp sender is by the water pump intake, I also have the aftermarket on the thermo housing. Well one day cruising the highway I lost a freeze plug, the aftermarket gauge told me I was still at operating temp due to no fluid around the end so it wouldnt read a temp. The factory gauge saved my a$$ because there was a tiny bit of fluid left in it that shot the gauge up towards the H mark to alert me. There was no steam or smell like one would expect, so even though everyone complains about the factory gauges they DO come in handy
Ya know...that's a good point. If I could get the instrument panel temp gauge working, I could keep the aftermarket on there so that I would know for sure the t-stat was working. PLUS...like you said, if it overheats, the instr panel would show it.
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