Got the return line kit... ?s...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Got the return line kit... ?s...
Just got this in the mail:
That kit has little spring clips to hold the fuel line to the plastic caps and the fuel line looks oldschool with the fabric covering.
Are the fuel lines under a lot of pressure when I go to disconnect them to remove the caps, etc.?
How is this kit typically installed? Do you just measure the placement of each injector, cut and assemble the plastic caps and hoses first, then click them all in, or do it one-by-one? I assume the copper washers have something to do with the injectors. Do I need to remove the injectors to install the copper washers? Should I install the copper washers? What do I torque the injectors down to?
That kit has little spring clips to hold the fuel line to the plastic caps and the fuel line looks oldschool with the fabric covering.
Are the fuel lines under a lot of pressure when I go to disconnect them to remove the caps, etc.?
How is this kit typically installed? Do you just measure the placement of each injector, cut and assemble the plastic caps and hoses first, then click them all in, or do it one-by-one? I assume the copper washers have something to do with the injectors. Do I need to remove the injectors to install the copper washers? Should I install the copper washers? What do I torque the injectors down to?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,357
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From: Mi'kma'ki
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Ahhhhhh... I should've searched more than "injector return." Great informative link. One side at a time and couple everything together before clicking them down. 
Do you keep all the fuel hoses not clamped on the plastic caps, click the plastic caps into place and then move all of the fuel hose clamps into place?
Do you keep all the fuel hoses not clamped on the plastic caps, click the plastic caps into place and then move all of the fuel hose clamps into place?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: Willow River B.C.
I assembled my return lines on a flat bench and twisted them all so they sat flat then put them on, they do twist easy enough that it probably isnt necessary but I'm a little **** at times. You might find that the plastic caps may be different than the ones you remove, for referance heres how I had to change mine when I made the lines up.
Drivers side
Passenger side
Use plenty of engine oil to lube up the o-rings on the injectors and the inside of the caps before installing them, if you can track down some of the viton o-rings, use those instead. After having mine installed and leak free for a month and a half I did GP's and disturbed the return lines and have a couple small leaks now with the o-rings that came in the kit. I bought the same brand of kit you have pictured.
Scott
Drivers side
Passenger side
Use plenty of engine oil to lube up the o-rings on the injectors and the inside of the caps before installing them, if you can track down some of the viton o-rings, use those instead. After having mine installed and leak free for a month and a half I did GP's and disturbed the return lines and have a couple small leaks now with the o-rings that came in the kit. I bought the same brand of kit you have pictured.
Scott
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 478
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From: houma, louisiana
also when you start putting the orings on the injectors place the top oring first and let the botom oring go over the top one that way the first oring doesnt get damaged trying to get past the first oring grove on the injector. something that i probly do different than most is after i snap the plastic cap down onto the injector i take one of the old orings and install on top of the plastic cap, then replace the injector line and tighten down. the old oring holds the cap down and makes so the return lines are not as easy to disturb when working on top the motor. this is something that i practise others may not lol. feel free to use if feasable.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
good idea j tate.i figured there must be a reason why the gap was left,and although i didn't like it,i left it alone.
i like the idea of using the old O ring.thats soft and vibration may not follow through it.this is the only reason i could think of.
how long have you had the kit installed with the O's for the extra pressure on the top? so far vibration from the motor hasn't caused any to leak?
i like the idea of using the old O ring.thats soft and vibration may not follow through it.this is the only reason i could think of.
how long have you had the kit installed with the O's for the extra pressure on the top? so far vibration from the motor hasn't caused any to leak?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 478
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From: houma, louisiana
good idea j tate.i figured there must be a reason why the gap was left,and although i didn't like it,i left it alone.
i like the idea of using the old O ring.thats soft and vibration may not follow through it.this is the only reason i could think of.
how long have you had the kit installed with the O's for the extra pressure on the top? so far vibration from the motor hasn't caused any to leak?
i like the idea of using the old O ring.thats soft and vibration may not follow through it.this is the only reason i could think of.
how long have you had the kit installed with the O's for the extra pressure on the top? so far vibration from the motor hasn't caused any to leak?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
My sons' 7.3 turbo had a 3 way plastic cap on the 2nd inj. on the left and the 3rd inj. on the right with a hose running from the left bank to the right bank.I reused the 3 way caps.They didn't look like they were hurt,cracked or anything,so I hope we don't get any leaks.The kit didn't come with the 3 way caps and I didn't see a listing for a different kit for the turbo 7.3.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I can't wait to get this kit installed. The driver's side is leaking more and more and it makes cold starts harder and harder. I just need to get my stepdad's truck out of the shop first. I've heard doing these while it's warm is a whole lot better because those caps can get brittle in the cold. The shop has a bullet/salamander heater. It makes wrenching a whole lot nicer.
Thanks for all the advice. It's good to know someone else installed that brand kit. So the general consensus is to use motor oil on everything and not Vaseline and top o-ring first, then bottom. Got it.
Edit again... So there's no reason to take out the injectors and replace the copper washers, then retorque the injectors. No advantage in doing this?
Thanks for all the advice. It's good to know someone else installed that brand kit. So the general consensus is to use motor oil on everything and not Vaseline and top o-ring first, then bottom. Got it.
Edit again... So there's no reason to take out the injectors and replace the copper washers, then retorque the injectors. No advantage in doing this?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
My sons' 7.3 turbo had a 3 way plastic cap on the 2nd inj. on the left and the 3rd inj. on the right with a hose running from the left bank to the right bank.I reused the 3 way caps.They didn't look like they were hurt,cracked or anything,so I hope we don't get any leaks.The kit didn't come with the 3 way caps and I didn't see a listing for a different kit for the turbo 7.3.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
I know now to get a kit for the turbo the next time.I need to get the rad hoses and thermostat in it so I can try it it out some to make sure the lines don't leak.I got a OE recomended 205 degree thermostat by the way.Is that a good choice?
