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crew cab swap

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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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crew cab swap

i have a 91 f-150 single and am looking to swap the cab for a crew cab. any hints on which cab to use to swap. not worried about work to mount or anything, just trying to find which one will work best. im assuming any 8th gen. crew cab would work + lots of elbow grease. also doing a 35 degree bent i-beam ifs and 3/4 elliptical rear. i know there are alot of better suspensions, just want to do something different, dont know anyone with an angled i-beam ifs. thanks
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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I have been thinking of doing this myself. I swapped fenders and front clip from my '90 to a '95, and would use a '92-'95 to match the front. For your truck I would think the anything from '88 to '95 would work, but some things would be in different spots. Some have the ECM is in a different spot as well as the hood won't match the cowl lines (though you can swap cowls), and a few other things. If you can find a '90 or '91 in good shape I'd go with one of them, no changes up front. The back windows are a little different, which do you like better? Get one of those instead. All else I'd get the cleanest one I could find. Here in CA we have tons of rust free F150s for cheap.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 04:19 PM
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thanks for bringing up the fenders and clip, i was looking at replacing the cab forward as a whole package but i could probably mix and match as long as they were close. im hoping to get the cab and panels to line up as purchased leaving all my time to frame mod but im not that lucky. and up in alaska theres no such thing as "no rust"
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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So if I understand this correctly, you have a regular cab chassis and wish to put a crew cab body on it, leaving about 2' for a bed?

Just want to make sure I understand the question... because I can't picture what you're doing in my mind for some reason.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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u got it. instead of "bobbing" the frame on a single cab and shortening the wheelbase, this is a reverse-bob so im extending, or in this case replacing with bigger, the cab keeping the wheelbase long and keeping the center of gravity relatively the same. ill move everything i can to within the frame rails or lower, ex. fuel, to also help with center of gravity. and with the 3/4 ellip. rear suspension i will be sitting less than 6" high but with "unlimited" rear flex. the cut i-beam ifs will be my flex limit depending on how extreme the angle is.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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I have seen what you are attempting to do. And i realize everyone hase thire own opinion but that looks like AZZ
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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i absolutely agree with you, it does look really terrible, but this is purely an application specific build. after going through a 10ft. deep glacial river she needs new everything, just letting my imagination go on this one. will be my new hunting rig for alaska
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Here is a thread of a lifted one.https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...swap-pics.html Not sure how a 2wd would be
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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thanks for the link. and mines a 4wd
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:58 AM
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I was going to do a club or extra cab, but that crew cab 4x4 looks BAD ***, and I Love it! Good luck, and you might think about buying a rust free donor truck down here and driving it home.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - Pics of your rigs

Not ugly at all. Perfect hunting or family camping rig.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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well ugly in a really pretty dream truck sort of way. i spend alot of time down in WA and could probably dig up a rust-free cab somewhere. maybe even ****** a new motor. i drove windshield deep in a glacial river this summer and that did wonders for my drivetrain. so lookin to replace the 300 6l with another one, maybe a 351 cleveland if i can still find the guy down there. if i had the $$ to really do this one up i would go crew cab on top and 2.5 rockwells underneath but might as well buy a 1-ton platform for that.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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The example pictures of what you want to do remind be of the modern "toy" pickups similar to the Ford Explorer - seats 5, four doors, and a very tiny bed. I won't say these pictures look terrible because I really appreciate the work that goes into custom vehicles of this kind... so kudo's to those who have made nice trucks using an interesting mix of parts.

Having said that, I personally wouldn't have use for a pickup that doesn't have an 8' bed. But I can see how others may find it useful - seating for five or six with elbow room with the ability to haul nasty stuff (gasoline, roofing tar, acetone, welding bottles) outside of the passenger compartment which you cannot do with an SUV.

If you can weld, this project is not difficult - just time consuming. YOu'd have to hack the bed down to the apropriate length, inside and outside, for remember that the Ford bed's have an outer skin as well as an inner skin and it's hollow in between - that's for collecting water and causing rust on the rocker panels and the wheel well arches - a Ford trademark

Making mounts of the back of the crewcab can be done by finding usable mounts from a junkyard/donor truck and cutting them off and welding them on, or making them out of two triangles with a square or rectangle pad on top. For strength purposes, I'd make that out of 1/4" plate or something like that. Fuel, brakes, wiring for the most part would be the same except you'd have to wire up the rear doors and the rear lighting for passengers, and how you do that depends if you use factory parts or custom stuff.

4wd/2wd shouldn't matter, because all that's involved is the transfer case forward and those parts would be the same and in the same position regardless what cab style/size you slam on there.

Cool idea.

For many years I had a different idea... and that was to extend my crewcab's frame 20" - the length of the extended cab extension as compared to a regular cab - this way I'd have the crewcab seating for six, and a little more space behind the rear passengers for subwoofers, audio amps, tools, spare tire, that sort of thing.

Never got around to it though.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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thanks for the info frederic. as far as the 8' bed predicament goes, for this application the 2-3' in back plus a roof rack is enough space for gear, fuel, and animals with bullet holes. i doubt i will even put a bed on the back but instead fab a rack/flat bed. my main concern is making the cab forwards look very clean and straight, and like you said, thats just a matter of electrode. as far as my proposed suspension goes, i may just put solid 9" front and rear if i get fed up with the wierd stuff.
p.s. if i had 75k+ i would just buy one of those custom dodge mega cabs w/ a 10' bed and be almost 25' long and never have to worry about space again.
 
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