Starter just failed turning over?
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New User
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Starter just failed turning over?
20 degrees in NH this weekend. Starter was turning over, then on the 4th try to
start the truck the starter decided it had enough and won't turn over.
I've got @75k on eng. Batteries were checked out and fine. Is there a fuse in-line? Flat spot on starter? Local parts store recommended disconnecting the alternator to bypass a sensor. Did that with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
start the truck the starter decided it had enough and won't turn over.
I've got @75k on eng. Batteries were checked out and fine. Is there a fuse in-line? Flat spot on starter? Local parts store recommended disconnecting the alternator to bypass a sensor. Did that with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Moyock, NC
What was the duration of your cranks? Anything in excess the 30 seconds and you may have fried your starter. Is the starter making a clicking sound or nothing at all? I would load test both batteries again. Get yourself a load tester $20 Harbor Freight and see what condition the batteries are in. Make sure they're charge to at least 12.6v first before load testing. Also the first load test could be a false positive it usually is good to do it anyway as it de-sulfinates the platelets....then wait 30 seconds and re-load test them to get a true reading. If one is bad...the other one is right behind it. What is the age of the batteries...anything over 4 years has to be suspect. Always replace both. Ensure you disconnect both batteries completely when load testing, since they are connected in parallel.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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What was the duration of your cranks? Anything in excess the 30 seconds and you may have fried your starter. Is the starter making a clicking sound or nothing at all? I would load test both batteries again. Get yourself a load tester $20 Harbor Freight and see what condition the batteries are in. Make sure they're charge to at least 12.6v first before load testing. Also the first load test could be a false positive it usually is good to do it anyway as it de-sulfinates the platelets....then wait 30 seconds and re-load test them to get a true reading. If one is bad...the other one is right behind it. What is the age of the batteries...anything over 4 years has to be suspect. Always replace both. Ensure you disconnect both batteries completely when load testing, since they are connected in parallel.
You sound like you have been on a diesel boat too long!
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New User
Joined: Jan 2010
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What was the duration of your cranks? Anything in excess the 30 seconds and you may have fried your starter. Is the starter making a clicking sound or nothing at all? I would load test both batteries again. Get yourself a load tester $20 Harbor Freight and see what condition the batteries are in. Make sure they're charge to at least 12.6v first before load testing. Also the first load test could be a false positive it usually is good to do it anyway as it de-sulfinates the platelets....then wait 30 seconds and re-load test them to get a true reading. If one is bad...the other one is right behind it. What is the age of the batteries...anything over 4 years has to be suspect. Always replace both. Ensure you disconnect both batteries completely when load testing, since they are connected in parallel.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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If no click: Solenoid frozen... stuck
Check connections, wiring.
Even if it tested OK, assumption is you really only have 1 working battery if they are not matched pair.
Check wiring between batteries.
Check connections, wiring.
Even if it tested OK, assumption is you really only have 1 working battery if they are not matched pair.
Check wiring between batteries.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
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20 degrees in NH this weekend. Starter was turning over, then on the 4th try to
start the truck the starter decided it had enough and won't turn over.
I've got @75k on eng. Batteries were checked out and fine. Is there a fuse in-line? Flat spot on starter? Local parts store recommended disconnecting the alternator to bypass a sensor. Did that with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
start the truck the starter decided it had enough and won't turn over.
I've got @75k on eng. Batteries were checked out and fine. Is there a fuse in-line? Flat spot on starter? Local parts store recommended disconnecting the alternator to bypass a sensor. Did that with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
Also, I would suggest you look into replacing the glow plug relay. If you have to crank that many times, then your glow plugs are not getting the proper current and that would cause the hard starting. Even though your glow plug relay light may be cycling, the contacts are probably pitted and or burnt. I have 85,000 on my X and it starts right up even at 15°F like yesterday.
Not sure if you can take the glow plug relay apart. Should be able to. Did not look when I had mine out to install ARP studs. If you can get it apart, clean the conatcts or file them down to get a smooth surface. They may be beyond repair and need to be replaced, if you can find replacement contacts.
DSMMH
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
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Might want to try this
Look in your owners manual and locate relay 307 (starter relay). Now just swap it with another similar relay and try to start the engine. If that does not do the trick, then swap relay 302 (PCM power) relay, again, with another similar relay. Doing either or both of those should get her fired up. If not, you can inspect the contacts for burnt residue and or pitting by opening the relay. Looking at the blades, just pry the tabs out and the cover will come off. It will be apparent if the contacts are burnt or pitted. There will be a black residue on the contacts. I normally remove the moving arm. Very easy to do and cleaning is a lot easier. Just take a piece of crocus cloth (very fine sand paper) or scotch bright and remove the black residue.
OBTW - Ford replacement relays are very expensive. Any DPST 30 amp relay will work. They are fairly standard. I believe you can get them at Radio Shack for about $5 to $7.
DSMMH
OBTW - Ford replacement relays are very expensive. Any DPST 30 amp relay will work. They are fairly standard. I believe you can get them at Radio Shack for about $5 to $7.
DSMMH
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 3
Look in your owners manual and locate relay 307 (starter relay). Now just swap it with another similar relay and try to start the engine. If that does not do the trick, then swap relay 302 (PCM power) relay, again, with another similar relay. Doing either or both of those should get her fired up. If not, you can inspect the contacts for burnt residue and or pitting by opening the relay. Looking at the blades, just pry the tabs out and the cover will come off. It will be apparent if the contacts are burnt or pitted. There will be a black residue on the contacts. I normally remove the moving arm. Very easy to do and cleaning is a lot easier. Just take a piece of crocus cloth (very fine sand paper) or scotch bright and remove the black residue.
OBTW - Ford replacement relays are very expensive. Any DPST 30 amp relay will work. They are fairly standard. I believe you can get them at Radio Shack for about $5 to $7.
DSMMH
OBTW - Ford replacement relays are very expensive. Any DPST 30 amp relay will work. They are fairly standard. I believe you can get them at Radio Shack for about $5 to $7.
DSMMH
You have this saved don't you. Copy and paste is a wonderful thing.
