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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

negative camber

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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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negative camber

hi, i have a 84 f250, i just put a lift kit on it, it had some posative camber, so i put some axle drop brackets on it, now it has negative camber, just enough to make the tires wear funny. how do you adjust this? can you do it and get it close by yourself? any help or advice please
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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add or subtract leafs as needed???

it is a 4X4, right?

what did you use to lift the front end? zero rates? whole new spring packs?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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add or subtract leafs as needed???

it is a 4X4, right?

what did you use to lift the front end? zero rates? whole new spring packs?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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i got a new leaf spring pack. yea, 4x4
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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crap. sorry about the double post. don't know how it happened.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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How this works is simple in theory. If you put 4 inch lift springs in the front, you put brackets in the center that lower the center pivot point 4 inches, and you are back where you were in the beginning as far as alignment. You also put a dropped pitman arm on the steering box, and it lowers the steering linkage back in relation(approx 4 inches lower) and then everything is back close to factory specs. If you mix and match parts, you will get into trouble.

The upper balljoints do not sit into the steering knuckle, they are seated into bushings that are seated in the knuckle. You can buy special bushings that are offset to move the wheel in or out where you need it, but they only move it so far.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
How this works is simple in theory. If you put 4 inch lift springs in the front, you put brackets in the center that lower the center pivot point 4 inches, and you are back where you were in the beginning as far as alignment. You also put a dropped pitman arm on the steering box, and it lowers the steering linkage back in relation(approx 4 inches lower) and then everything is back close to factory specs. If you mix and match parts, you will get into trouble.

The upper balljoints do not sit into the steering knuckle, they are seated into bushings that are seated in the knuckle. You can buy special bushings that are offset to move the wheel in or out where you need it, but they only move it so far.

X2. how much lift were the springs supposed to get you?

and how much lift was the drop bracket supposed to be good for???
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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it was 3" springs and 3 inch drop bracket, and now i got negative camber, i know the camber was adjusted as negative as it can go cuz it had 2 inch lift with no drop bracket and had posative camber.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by CSRadel
it was 3" springs and 3 inch drop bracket, and now i got negative camber, i know the camber was adjusted as negative as it can go cuz it had 2 inch lift with no drop bracket and had posative camber.
Well, there you go. You could put the 2 inch lift back in whatever it was(add-a-leafs?) or you could knock the balljoints loose and try to turn the bushing around to straighten the wheel. Problem is with the bushing turn, you really need to have it on a alignment rack. Along with straightening the wheel as you look at it from the front, the bushing also tilts the top of the wheel forward or back as you are looking at it from the side(caster). If you get the caster messed up, your steering wheel be very stiff and hard off center, or it will not want to return to center when you let go of the steering wheel.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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okay, how do you go about turning the ball joints? what needs to be done? okay, ill get it aligned right sometime, i just wanna get it to stop wearin tires out for right now
 
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