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Just wondering what torque wrenches your using? Not looking for any Snap-On or big name like that.Looking for something of decent Quality that is not too exspensive.
Cheapest and most reliable torque wrench is the bending beam. It never goes out of calibration. Only drawback, it is hard to read at high torque readings. Sometimes you need to have someone else read it.
The beam type are very hard to read. More like approximations vs actual readings. Craftsman and S&K are good names in general for the click-type torque wrenches. I think they are all made in Taiwan these days, as they all look exactly alike. Don't go too over the top with things like digital readout, as that is extra stuff to break (batteries die at the worst times) and you will be fine. I have 3 sizes - The mainstay is a 3/8" drive 10-100 ft lb S&K, and I also use the larger 1/2" drive 25-250 ft lb S&K a lot, especially for lug nuts. I also have an inch-lb Craftsman one too, but that is rarley needed unless you are doing carb or ingition work (very little of that in modern cars, of course).
Well My 1/2" drive is A snap-on 50-250 lbs. ft, I've had a couple harbor freight 3/8 drive click types, they tend to loose calibration easily, so I bought a beam style from auto zone, to handle the small stuff. Also had a 3/4 drive matco that the shop i worked for used to supply. That thing was a beast, at 5 foot long, and and reading up to 700 lbs. foot. For at home stuff go with the beam style. They are always acurate if used correctly and will last forever. Remember that click types have moving parts, and as the parts wear the wrench needs to be calibrated. I worked for a company that made us calibrate our torque wrenches, calipers, volt meters, and any other measuring equipment every 6 months.
I think the only place I've used a beam type torque wrench is when rebuilding a rear end, setting up the pinion bearing preload. Other than that, I find a click type to be sufficient.
I've got both types always prefer the beam. I bought a Great Neck in-lb clicker brand new and it broke the stud on a 8-12 ftlb use.
I bought a USA made Sturtevant Richmont beam type for $25 on ebay and just checked the Great Neck...
At 240 on the USA one, the Great Neck was reading over 300!!
kinda sad you buy a new tool and it's a total waste.
The beam type has it's uses in engine building too.
Can't fit a micrometer type into the small crankcases of some lawnmower engines. Old Briggs opposed twins are really tight and my Craftsman click type simply would not fit to where I could get the socket on the connecting rod bolt. Had to use a beam-style.
Prefer the click type whenever possible, though.
One of the reasons I prefer the beam type is I work out of a service truck chasing drilling rigs around California, Nevada and Arizona. The constant vibration from travelling 30K miles a year would destroy the inner workings of a clicker or other mechanical type of wrench.
I would also be curious about where to get one calibrated. I'm sure that there are companies that do it, but their main market would probably be big shops.
Also, a note about something I've read (on FTE and elsewhere). IIRC, you should always zero click types when you're not using them -- keeps them accurate longer.