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F250 Y pipe?

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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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Question F250 Y pipe?

I bought Hooker headers for my 1993 F250 (4wd 5spd) and the stock Y-pipe doesnt fit because the Hooker headers are longer and come out parallel with the frame instead of the stock headers which face the ground, and i cant find any Y pipes that will fit the new headers. Give me ANY information that will help me, maybe even a site where i can purchase a Y-pipe that will fit?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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what headers did u buy ? like the part number long tube or shorty and what engine...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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Comp. full length Hooker headers. for my V8 5.8L
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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competition full length headers for my v8 5.8L 351 windor i meant
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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ok i thaught u was talking about long tubes.... u will more than likely have to have one made at a muffler shop or urself if u have the tools
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Sounds like you need a custom exhaust to me, because if you go putting a factory Y pipe on there you won't get the full power gain of the headers.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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neither of you know if they sell any after market Y-pipes that will fit? i was trying to avoid having to fabricate something..
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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I'm pretty sure they don't. But I could be wrong.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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There are no longtube compatable Y-pipe kits available for these trucks, most guys run duals with them or they fabricate a Y pipe themselves.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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any true dual kits that are compatible with the hooker headers and my truck? i didnt think duals would work because the 4wd transfer case seems to be in the way on my drivers side...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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With those headers you have to fabricate a custom Y pipe. It's not very difficult to do if you can weld as you just siamese two pipes you've made out of elbows or bent with a mandrel system for our "Y".

Here's a lazy way to create a simple "Y":



What you do is take the two pieces you want to join and cut them down the length at an angle, so you can put the two halves together, giving you two in and one out.

I made the above part to merge the factory "Y" which has two outlets (which is why it's really an H pipe and not a Y pipe) to a single outlet to go to a generic cat ($170) instead of the factory dual-inlet cat ($600+).



Because of all these crazy things you have to adapt, it might be easier and less time consuming to run duals all the way down the length of the truck and call it a day.

The exhaust system on my F350 just fell off front to back, so I very well might be going the dual exhaust route because I'm sure as heck not paying a premium for oddball weirdo parts. I'd rather just weld up something more generic for easier servicing down the road.

If the transfer case is in the way of duals, you can simply elbow your way around it. Four 45 degree elbows, a piece of straight section, and several clamps will do the job.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:47 PM
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Thank you so much!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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I fabricated a Y pipe for my truck using mendrel bent tubing sections and an over the counter 2 into 1 collector, the tubing was cut into sections and welded together piece by piece to get around the transfer case and trans linkage... which took a whole day to do. See here for lots of pics. New Exhaust - a set on Flickr
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Having full length headers going into a y pipe would be a waste of time and money. Almost all of the benefits of running full length headers would be lost as soon as it was forced into a y pipe. Unless the y pipe was 4inches big. If you want to see any benefits of these headers a minimum of 2" duel exhaust must be run.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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Running headers through duals makes the most sense, yes, but keep in mind that all eight cylinders don't fire at the same time, so if you get the lengths of the "Y" pipe right, you can order the pulses so that they dont' collide and are equally spaced - the same concept that's generally applied to equal length headers. That's what truly matters - single file pulses down the pipe without collisions.

For a SBF 2.5" exhaust is enough for regular street duty, 3" for performance, 3.5" for high performance. Add 1/2" to each for a BBF.
 
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