Changing plugs?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 996
Likes: 5
From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
Mine's an '81 E-150 w/300 6, the plugs are a breeze as there's pleanty of room to work. Now years ago I drove for a small bus company that ran 'tupperware' buses that had an Econoline front clip, these ran the 460~what a pain~the forward plug on the port side could only be reached with two 3" wobbly extensions and a u joint extension and one click on the ratchet was the most before I'd have to reposition this Rube Goldberg~you can bet yer @ss we put a platinum plug in that one!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,573
Likes: 250
From: Laquey, MO
The 6.8L is appears to be even tougher because the plugs are up by the intake manifold.
I'm hoping against all hope that they were changed recently and I won't have to mess with them soon.
I'm hoping against all hope that they were changed recently and I won't have to mess with them soon.
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Well I haven't changed mine (they were done 2 years ago) but I have checked the Torque on each, and it's not hard but time consuming.
Take the passenger seat out (4 bolts) now you have lots of room for your body comfort.
remove the dog house. Unbolt the transmission filler pipe and carefully move it to the right side out of the way. Start unhooking the injector and COP harness cyl 3;4;5;
Remove the air filter assy then the unhook injector and COP harness 1; 2 along with the harness guide rails move it out toward the fender
Start at # 5 plug and remove the COP 7 or 8 mil wrench I think
Any # 3; 4; 5 are done from in the cab, 1 and 2 from under the hood
I use a 4 1/2 inch spark plug socket, (this protrudes about 1/2 inch above the hole)
a short wobble extension (try to keep it straight when torquing)
#2 and 3 are the difficult ones and # 6; 7; 8; 9; 10 are easy lots of room
use the copper anti seize (only a little on the threads none on the seat)
Cheers
Willey
Take the passenger seat out (4 bolts) now you have lots of room for your body comfort.
remove the dog house. Unbolt the transmission filler pipe and carefully move it to the right side out of the way. Start unhooking the injector and COP harness cyl 3;4;5;
Remove the air filter assy then the unhook injector and COP harness 1; 2 along with the harness guide rails move it out toward the fender
Start at # 5 plug and remove the COP 7 or 8 mil wrench I think
Any # 3; 4; 5 are done from in the cab, 1 and 2 from under the hood
I use a 4 1/2 inch spark plug socket, (this protrudes about 1/2 inch above the hole)
a short wobble extension (try to keep it straight when torquing)
#2 and 3 are the difficult ones and # 6; 7; 8; 9; 10 are easy lots of room
use the copper anti seize (only a little on the threads none on the seat)
Cheers
Willey
Last edited by WilleyB; Jan 28, 2010 at 10:01 PM. Reason: change word "left" to read "right"
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Dave keep in mind I've only checked the torque on mine, please read the threads on replacing the plugs, there's a wealth of information from those who have done the work and you can benefit from their experience
Do you live in Canada? If so you can get the 4 1/2 inch spark plug socket and the wobble extension at Princess Auto for a decent price about $5 for the socket. The wobble extension comes in handy while fitting the socket with the torque wrench when doing #3 spark plug.
Cheers
Willey
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,573
Likes: 250
From: Laquey, MO
I'm in Mid-Missouri - it just feels like Canada at the moment. 
I've been through the thread a couple of times, but will probably go through it a couple more times before I attempt it. It will probably be this summer before I attempt it unless I start having problems before then. I operate on the premise that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'll have to check out the local sources for the longer socket - didn't know they made one.
I keep planning on getting the OASIS report on the van so I can hopefully get some idea of what may have been done on it. It was bought from a nearby Ford dealership that rebuilt the front end, so I'm hoping there may be some other records on it. Just haven't had the VIN with me when I was near a dealership.
I've been through the thread a couple of times, but will probably go through it a couple more times before I attempt it. It will probably be this summer before I attempt it unless I start having problems before then. I operate on the premise that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I'll have to check out the local sources for the longer socket - didn't know they made one.
I keep planning on getting the OASIS report on the van so I can hopefully get some idea of what may have been done on it. It was bought from a nearby Ford dealership that rebuilt the front end, so I'm hoping there may be some other records on it. Just haven't had the VIN with me when I was near a dealership.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 7
From: Saint Augustine, FL
I should point out that the main cause of COP failures is bad plugs. Also, Ford has a TSB out on replacing plugs on mod motors. Somewhere in the '03/'04 range they changed the head design to improve the spark plug installation and retention. Earlier versions were bad about blowing out the plugs or cross threading them.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 7
From: Saint Augustine, FL
Not defects. Worn out. As the resistance goes up, the spark will look for the path of least resistance. If the jump through the boot to the head is easier than through the electrode of the plug, then that's where it goes. It will burn up the COP if it does this.
So don't let your plugs go indefinently and wait for a miss before you change them.
The note about cross threading is very important. Be very careful when you start them and don't over torque.
So don't let your plugs go indefinently and wait for a miss before you change them.
The note about cross threading is very important. Be very careful when you start them and don't over torque.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,573
Likes: 250
From: Laquey, MO
That's the direction I'm leaning myself as long as I have some assurance that the service dept will stand behind their work. After having a D@dge dealer refuse to repair the cylinder head on my Neon when their tech messed up the plugs on it, I'm more than a little gun shy on this.
