Since I've put the body back on my frame with the lowered suspension package I've got an issue with clearance on the front fenders. I can correct it by going with bigger diameter rims and a deeper offset. The tires are tucked up into the wheel well opening about an inch and a half but are only 1/2'' away from rubbing the fender not allowing me to turn the wheels without hitting the fenders.
What I need to know is how far in from the fenders do I need my tires to be so I can prevent them rubbing. I have the stance that I was looking for and would like to keep it. I know that quite a few of you have lowered trucks and would appreciate your input.
John

The stance on this truck is about the same as my panel

 

Had this dilemma once, put rubber spacers, the flat ring type, under (or above can’t remember) the coil springs and it didn’t raise it much but got just enough clearance so that the tires would clear (but the night time metal sparks over bumps went away, damn.)

Got pictures of car, can't show, other make!

 

That Truck Looks so good, I'd just drive it in a straight line

There is an aluminum tool designed for wheel clearance that mounts to your hub. It holds a loose tire. It's basically an adjustable wheel simulation. It has graduations on it and you adjust it to get the readings you want for offset - width etc. It's possible some of the more progressive shops in your area have one of these and you can dial it in.

Dawg-a-roo

 

Nice looking truck. I have no idea for altered stance other than stock,but rubbing is always a pain.....Will you keep it as is...or a color top-coat?

 

The truck in the picture belongs to another member on here 56viet, I posted the picture to show the comparison stance of my panel. My question was; how much distance my tire needs to be from the fender in order to turn my wheels without the tires rubbing with the truck lowered in this manner. I'm trying to determine what back spacing I need for the rims I'll have to buy.
Thanks again

 

Planning on doing any "parallel parking?"

 

Yes, that's why I'm asking,lol and who knows I might need to turn a corner to come see you

 

Jack the truck up and remove a front wheel. Measure distance from the front hub (where the back of the rim would rest) to the inside lip of your front fender. Call Joeblow wheel company and they'll tell you what tire / wheel backspacing combo you need. That is how I did mine than ordered the fronts from Midfiddy.

Michigan Rick

 

Thanks for the tip Rick. Just took a look at your panel and it is about the same stance that mine is sitting. I'll do some measuring this weekend, thanks again, John

 

John,I have 2 inches between the tire and fender lip and have never had the tires rub.

 

mine sits about the same and tire also is 2" from fender.

 

Thank you, this will help

and thanking you also.

 

Stockton Wheels has a nice schematic so that you can get the right setback. Stockton Wheel - Print, fill out and fax us this order form. I agree that 2" sounds about right. If you go too much space it starts looking like a drag racer. Jag

 

How you lowered it, what you find works for front and rear wheel sizes and offsets. I was just measuring mine (53 deluxe Panel) yesterday, wondering what I can fit. I dont think I'll be slamming it, but it would be nice to know what youre working with and what works out for you. Thanks in advance! Im leaning towards 15x8 (4.5 bspace) in back with 255 60(or 70) 15's and 15x7 in front with 235 60 (or70)'s, but want to be sure what backspace I need in front if I was to drop it hard. Im assuming the same backspacing as the rear would work but want to be sure before ordering...

 

I don't think I'd be the best candidate for advice seeing as I used a shortened 72 chevy C10 chassie mostly because it was what I had at hand. But seeing as how you asked how I lowered it here goes. I bought the grand slam package from CPP which supplied 2 1/2" drop spindles and my choice of 1'' lowering coil springs up front and 4'' lowering coil springs out back. The reason I need to go with a deeper back spacing is because the chevy has a wider tracking width, the rear poses no problem because they stay straight, the fronts will not be able to turn as they sit 1/2'' from the fender. A friend of mine has a Chrysler Pacifica that uses the same bolt pattern but the center hub hole is to small to allow me to bolt it up but looks to have the correct back spacing, it is an 8'' wide x 17'' rim with 6'' back spacing that looks to be close in being able to fit past the steering knuckle the tie rod fastens to. I think I'll be looking for 18'' rims around 7'' wide. My days off work are now being hampered by having to fill in for someone at work now so will have to wait to do any measuring.
In your case I'd stick with the original frame as it is no cheaper doing it the way I did and not as much figuring how it is all going to go together, but I have no regrets with the way I've gone, it keeps the mind active,lol.
Happy New Year.