I really need to get the rust repaired on the cab of my 76 f150 I need to replace both front cab mounts, repair holes it the floorboarb on both sides, and repair the lower section of the front door post on the pass. side. has anyone had this kind of work done before? I'm not a body-man, so I'm going to probably have this done at a shop. Does anyone know how much this kind of repair usually costs? would it be best to buy patch panels, or cut pieces out of a different, junk truck? is this something a regular welding shop could do? any information on this kind of work would be appreciated. Thanks.

John
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT, 390ci---redneckmobile

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"] The kind of restoration work your cab needs is expensive. Since you plan on hiring this work out...take your truck to some shops in your area to get estimates and advice. You may find that you are further ahead by finding a rust free cab to work with. Price range for a bare cab is $300-700 depending on condition[/FONT][br]http://www.dealerconnection.com/DealerConnection/Themes/Standard/Ford/lgo-ford.gif[br]
[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-2" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee[/FONT]

 

I agree with Stockman. I think you will find the rust free cab to be the way to go.

 

I've seen two 67-72 type cabs recently where I live (Seattle area) rust free and in good shape for between $200-250 bare (no doors, glass ect) I gotta think that prepping a decent cab has gotta be much cheaper than haveing a rusty one restored.
I realize that 67-72 is different than 76 but I don't think that the price for a 73-79 style should be much different.

BBT

 

I'm well aware that replacing a cab might be a more cost effective way of fixing my problem. But this is not really an option for me. Rust free cabs just aren't readily available in my area, I've checked. And I really think that having one shipped in from out of state, would cost more than having mine repaired. Also, I just don't have the time to switch cabs. instead I'd very much like answers to the questions I've asked. I'm not really interested in alternate solutions, unless you happen to live in Missouri, and have for sale or know where to get a rust free cab. I really belive repairing my cab would be more cost effective anyway. I would very much apprecianswers to the questions in my first post.
thank you.

John
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT 390ci---Redneckmobile

 

I'm well aware that replacing a cab might be a more cost effective way of fixing my problem. But this is not really an option for me. Rust free cabs just aren't readily available in my area, I've checked. And I really think that having one shipped in from out of state, would cost more than having mine repaired. Also, I just don't have the time to switch cabs. instead I'd very much like answers to the questions I've asked. I'm not really interested in alternate solutions, unless you happen to live in Missouri, and have for sale or know where to get a rust free cab. I really belive repairing my cab would be more cost effective anyway. I would very much appreciate answers to the questions in my first post.
thank you.

John
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT 390ci---Redneckmobile

 

Sounds like you need to take up welding get a gas welding set up and start practicing on some sheet metal and exhaust pipes get some older library books on body repair and learn how to heat shrink and hammer weld patches this has become some what of a lost art except among old car restoration buffs and old timer bodymen.
Wire feed welding is good to learn also because when you can use it you will get less shrinking and warping of sheet metal wich can mean a lot less body filler.
Find replacment panals when you can.
Its something that you just have to jump in and do to learn.
Finding a teacher with experience would help.
Also, don't forget the fire extinguisher!

 

yeah,

repairing rust is a pain in the ***, and it's very time consuming if you want to do it right.... I've done the repairs that you're talking about and it requires the right tools and the skill and patience to have it turn out right. You'll need to remove the doors, seat, carpet and anything else that might get in your way.... then get a sawzall or cut-off wheel and cut back to good metal, making even, square cuts when possible. This will help when it comes time to fabricate the replacement panels. You may even have to cut thru good metal on the lower front door post to get to the bad stuff and you'll probably find more rust than you thought you had.... rent a smalll sandblaster, mask off or cover areas you don't want to get sand in, and blast the areas where the welding will take place. This will likely expose pinhole rust that you can fill in later when welding.

Get some cardboard or stiff paper and make templates for the replacements panels by laying it in the holes and using a pencil to trace the pattern. Cut the paper to size and transfer it to your sheet metal, then cut the metal. Once you have a good fit, tack it in with a wire feed welder. Once you're happy with the fit, finish it up and start on the next piece of the jigsaw puzzle...... it ain't easy, it aint't fun, but it's the only way. Otherwise, pay a good body man to do it and save yourself a lot of grey hair....good luck and have fun with your project!

 

I was going to send you a photo of the cab you are looking for, but I can't through this format.
Paul sailpaul(No Email Addresses In Posts!)