no fuel gauges.

ok.let me make sure i provide all the info i know.here goes:

1.fuel gauges worked prior to new FSV.
2.front tank reads empty (its full of fuel.)
3.rear tank reads way past full(its close to empty of fuel.)
4.with the switch on the dash fliped to the front tank,it does draw and return to the front tank.
5.with the switch on the dash flipped to the rear,i haven't yet confirmed if it pulls and returns to this tank yet.i will check this tomorrow.the truck does keep running,then the fuel gauge pegs all the way over beyond full.
6.i followed instructions noted here in post #8:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...g-diagram.html
which reads,and i direct quote:
all these wires,are exactly color coded as my '93 is (least,i have all these same colored wires lol.so i went with it.)
along with this help as well from here in post#34:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...r-valve-3.html
that reads,and i direct quote:


7.and lastly,and perhaps most importantly.here is the FSV i purchased:

POLLAK 6 PORT FUEL VALVE BIO-DIESEL VEGETABLE OIL VWO:eBay Motors (item 350101138673 end time Jan-15-10 14:02:42 PST)

and here is the manufacturers site on it:
Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve on Pollak


so.any ideas why i have neither fuel gauge working now?

attached is a pdf i got from that site.if you click on the first one,on the left,then you can see a "drawing pdf file". not sure which part# i have tho,or if it matters.but attached is the first one 42-159
that shows B as being the fuel gauge too right? like these guys mentioned above, or did i mess up or what? lol.
thanks guys!

 

Using the Pollak wiring labels power on E should select the front tank, power on D should select the rear tank.

D and E both supply positive and negative power to the FSV.

So when E is positive, D should be ground.
Flip the switch to the rear tank, D should be positive and E should be ground.

When the valve is changing tanks, the last thing it does is make the fuel gauge connection on the selected tank.

Did the gauges work correctly before you changed the valve?

Position A,B and C are the only connections that have anything to do with the fuel gauge.
Position A and C should be going to the tank senders with B going to the gauge.
Also not sure about how the newer ones are wired, but I have ground wires from the senders that are tied together near the FSV on mine.
Do you have any disconnected grounds?

 

It seems you have the sender wires backwards, front tank wire and rear tank wire.

 

ok,i'l test this tomorrow.that's cool.sounds easy.and report the findings here.

yes.the fuel gauge worked before changing the FSV with each tank,no problems.

i shouldn't have anything disconnected at this point.
for ground on my pump that i just installed,i just sanded the frame really good around a small bolt hole and put a bolt in on a crimp(tho i think,id like to run a devoted ground latter in the spring.but its out of this equation is my point anyway.)
the wires from the FSV are all neatly cut with new butt connectors and no loose wires.the whole wire group is still neatly inside the large rapped up factory harness (i don't see any loose/multi connected grounds.)

thanks again.man, with your guy's help,im getting this rig right up to par!

 

kinda.
but neither is accurate.well,the rear tank very well could be as empty as its indicating(when switched to the front tank on the dash)
but when selecting the rear tank,it pegs way,way,beyond full.it doesn't look like the needle is meant to be over this far.it's quite drastic looking.
but yeah,the one could be accurate.just reversed.good point.i could have a couple probs at the same time.

 

I can't remember who it was, but the tanks were reversed when he changed his FSV.

His was a bit worse, front tank selected, front tank fuel supply and rear tank fuel level indicated.

When I fill mine up, you can barely see the needle it's over above full so far.
But I did adjust my floats so when it hits E you start walking.

 

yeah,maybe that's how this one is too then.i wish i payed more attention when i filled it up.that's when my FSV quite and i had to tow it around the corner from the gas station.
i may just reverse these then,put some fuel in the rear tank,and see if the gauge goes up.
its raining now,or id do it today.
i did fix one other minor thing,the 4x4 shifter,needed to be freed up and light adjusted.so i got the boot back in place,since i could stay dry lol.
i should run down with a 5 gallon jug and put some diesel in the rear,and see if the gauge goes up when the front tank is selected.this will give us an idea of whats going on there a bit.

 

ok.so i added fuel to the rear tank.the fuel gauge didn't come up.
also,the FSV is not switching tanks.i pulled the rear lines off,and both dry.truck keeps running.
so.now im going to test voltage at pins D & E using this info from Dave:

Using the Pollak wiring labels power on E should select the front tank, power on D should select the rear tank.

D and E both supply positive and negative power to the FSV.

So when E is positive, D should be ground.
Flip the switch to the rear tank, D should be positive and E should be ground.

 

i got it! 100% perfect.
front tank selected,draws fuel from front tank(and returns to it of course) and front fuel gauge working.
same for rear,when rear is selected,draws/returns to its tank,and gauge reads its level.

so.for others,i may as well state everything to help you get it right.
first.this valve uses 6 ports.the engine to valve is obvious.connect the main tank (in my case the front) to the L port of the valve.
connect the R for your aux tank (in my case the rear.)
(i had this right)

pin 1 is NOT used.not by ford nor this valve.
you will see the blank spot in your old harness.
(i had this right)

Yellow/Blue Stripe = A
Yellow/White Stripe = B
Blue/White Stripe = C
Red = D
Black/White Stripe = E
None = F
(i had this wrong.like stated here,worked perfect for my '93)

feels good to know i saved a boat load on a new FSV,and wiring it up is quite easy actually when you pay attention to the old wiring harness.this should help those like me,who just want to match up the colors and keep it simple.

a little extra thanks Samstha once again for this.

 

i should also state to help future researchers,a simple tip,despite your colors of wires,
just cut off your stock connector,then look at it.notice the blank spot in the connector(where there is no wire to connect.)
well,right next to this side(the first wire next to it) is your "E".then follow your stock colors on your connector,over.so your next color beside "E" will be your "D" then c,b,a as you go across to the other side.
so when you cut your stock connector off,leave enough tails on your wires to be able to see each color so you can match it up.
this will make sense when your doing it.very simple really this way.

also note,when you try to bolt it back to the frame rail,the spacing is slightly off.you can start each bolt and it will catch and tighten.however,it will kink the top rear fuel lines.
she's stalling out on me when i select the rear tank,and the line pumps clean from the front tank.(that would REALLY suck for you guys who haven't done the electric pump conversion yet.as you would have to crank,and crank to prime the system again!!! so make sure you don't kink off the line.)
so i think i can just use one bolt.i'l use the top bolt in FSV and the bottom bolt hole in the frame.this should hold it plenty and provide more room so the lines don't kink.( but if your worried,and or want to really do it "right",you could drill another hole in the frame down lower,so you have both bolts again.i think the one with rust up and hold forever just fine,the fuel lines hold it all there too,so its not like it could fall off or anything.)

also note,this valve,just uses standard hose connections.not the stock fuel connections.
all you need to do,is cut the end off the ends going into the FSV,and strip back the outer hose.you can now slide your rubber hose right on the stock fuel connector lines going into the tanks!just secure with standard hose clamps.its all low pressure,so no worries.

there.i think i covered everything to help future peeps who search this down the road with all you need to know.

it's not hard to do yourself.so save yourself well over a hundred bucks by using this FSV.(that's more than enough $ saved for your electric pump conversion! )

 

additional info;
thanks for more Dave! (Raleigh1)

Raleigh1's truck:
1991 F 250 7.3 IDI-ATS Turbo-4.10 gears

 

Sweet writeup and should help me a lot when I re-wire my senders to the gauge!

 

Just for the record, the valve you should get from autozone is FSV2K, or just make sure if available you get the 6 port valve with the pigtail, don't get home and realize you forgot it. The nice part about FSV2K is it is the same price as FSV2, if not they charge you and extra 19.99 for the pigtail if you buy them separately.


Cheers,
Devin