I am going to replace my FTSV and found one at Auto zone.
The part # is: U7001.
Has anyone used this and is it plug and play or is splicing and cutting wires needed?

If anyone has done this let me know. (I am mostly interested in this!!!)

Or is it better to just get the Ford part.

Thanks
Thad

 

I am not getting the same number, FSV1 shows up for me.

And looking at the picture, may or may not be right, looks like 6 electrical connections in the plug port.

Five connections on the truck.

 

When I inquired information at the autozone here they asked me a few questions regarding how many ports or something like that. Its always BEST if you go with factory replacements, but its not always an option.

 

Same FSV 88-97 Check with these folks......... www.silverstatefordparts.com they are an online Ford dealer best prices.

Check this old # with them 6C3Z9189A MSRP $168.00 SELL $118.74 VALVE ASY

 

I found this post on one of the forums and saved the info. credit to the original poster. I believe the reference to wells/213 is a gm weather pack connector.

I recently replaced the stock fuel tank selector valve on my 1989 F350 with an after market unit. I opted for the Wells FSV2 (available at Auto Zone) as it was considerably cheaper than the OE unit from the Ford dealer. In order to make this work we need to make a few changes to our fuel lines and wiring.



First off, the connector on the FSV2 does not match the one on the truck. You will need to order the proper connector/pigtail from wells. The part number is 213 and runs around $12 from Auto Zone. It is recommended that all electrical connections be soldered and insulated with shrink wrap to prevent corrosion/shorts. Follow the diagram below when making your connections. Each pin on the 213 pigtail is lettered (if not on the pigtail, there will be letters in or close to the socket on the valve ).



Second, the replacement valve will not work with the stock nylon fuel lines and quick connect couplings. I cut the quick connects off and used hose couplings to connect the new rubber line to the existing nylon lines. Wells also recommends the use of inline filters between each tank and the valve to prevent damage to the valve. After I unhooked the old valve and watched a strange, black substance drain from the old valve, I am all for filters. Our final diagram shows where each of the fuel lines will connect to the new valve.

 

I thought my selector valve was bad and it was actually that the fuse connectors/receptacles/contacts in the fuse block were "crudded up".

It was also causing the same problem with the A/C.

I twisted the fuse spades slightly and pulled the fuse in and out of the block a few times and everything has worked ever since.

 

I have the Ford Part on order. I hate wiring!!! So now I plan to go get it and replace the fuel lines from the rear to the FTSV......should be fun...

Thad

 

Installed a new Ford FTSV and fuel lines.....Truck runs great with no issues!!!

The only problem is that I put the hoses on the wrong connections and the fuel is taken from the opposite tank of whats selected.....I'l fix it later.

Thad

 

Next time you need any OEM parts let me know.

ed

 

I had the same problem with the fuse as well but my problem was that every time I switched the a/c on it popped the fuse. checked the wiring could not locate any faults or shorts, corrosion, or bare wires. So I just bypassed the old wiring inserted a relay in my new harness and haven't had a problem since. My truck has dealer installed air though.

 

A thousand miles down with no issues......I love fixing something and having it work GREAT!!!!

 

I am planning on installing inline fuel filters before the FTSV to avoid any further damage to the FTSV. Just in case something finds it way into the tank and past the screen on the end of the pickup tubes.

I plan on using a WIX 33003 inline clear filter. Its a 20 micron filter. I plan to run WMO and tranny fluid through the rear tank so any more filtering the better!

Does anyone have other suggestions or do you think this work for my intent?

Still not sure why its indicating the opposite tanks fuel level when its pulling from the tank indicated by the toggle switch on the dash? hmmm...

 

Yellow/Lt.Blue is the rear tank sender wire, C on the connector.
Dark Blue/Yellow is the front tank sender wire, A on the connector.

Yellow/White is the wire to the gauge, B on the connector.

If the engine is sucking out of the tank indicated by the switch, wires A and C need to be reversed.

 

Dave I dont doubt you are correct but I used a Ford part and no splicing was done. Thats why I am stumped.

Switch indication: front
Fueling from: front
Fuel indicator: rear tank

And vice versa.....

Kinda odd.

Thad

 

Im in the process of collecting all the parts for this adventure. I bought 6 port valve (Auto Zone FSV2 = $59.99).
I thought the pigtail would be the same, but.. The part number for the pigtail was (Auto Zone FV5C = $17.00).

The pigtail isn't listed on the website, and they wouldn't do a special order unless you pay first, I had to drive 20 miles to pay for it, then wait 2 days, and go back to pick it up..

Supply Lines are 3/8, return line 5/16 on the valve and sending units. I went with sort of nylon inner core foam rubber outer hose from Goodyear ($120). Hopefully the under the hood steel lines are the same size, because the goodyear hose cant adapt like cheap rubber hose.. I should have whent with the cheap rubber hose.. Now if I could only find a cheap after market vapor separator???

Anyways, Im going to gut everything from the carb back. Ill let you know how it goes.


Thanks for all the Info, especially the wire diagram.