Yes I seen it before I posted under no. 13.

Just for the record, I'm thinking the OP may have jammed the end of the transmission in there without hitting the center hole in the pilot bearing( quite a push I know). That was my point under no. 11.

At any rate it seems funny it would squeal now, and apparently didn't before being tore apart. Maybe he did get a defective slave-throwout bearing.

 

i dunno maybe he needs to get a new clutch kit and redo it all over again...

the kits are exchangable then replace every thing the kit comes with .....

did you clean the pressure plate and fly wheel with brake cleaner?

but any way take that clutch kit back get a new one and redo it


and i know what u mean but the trans being a pain in the *** to get to slide in wouldnt do that.

i put a new clutch in a 92 d350 cummins

and it was stubbourn as hell to get to mate up to the engine

i had to pull it up with the bolts

... then again i know all my stuff was strait

 

I'm thinking it would, or atleast could. If the tip of the transmission doesn't go in the pilot bearing hole as it should and you force the transmission against the engine with the bolts. I'm not sure if you would the transmission would bolt up tight against the engine. It may push the pilot bearing back so
me and dent it some.


The bottom liine here is I can't imagine what could be causing that squealing noise ONLY WITH THE CLUTCH PUSHED IN, other than the scenario above or a bad throwout bearing. In the scenario above with the clutch pedal up everything would be turning together, thus no squeal.

I hope I made myself perfectly clear.

 

well the input shaft and flywheel is turning the same speed when not pressing the clutch but the thow out bearing is almost always turning

*not 100% of the time but some times they sit a little close to the pressure plate and turn BUT IT HAS NO PRESSURE ON IT* just thaught i would add that

but when u press the clutch in the input shaft slows down and becomes free spinning in a since.... under stand what im saying?

so any way when u press the clutch the flywheel rotates around the tip of the input shaft and if the pilot bearing isnt rolling its spinning in the crank shaft or on the input shaft....

does it try to move when u try to start it in gear with the clutch pressed in?

or when u try to put it in gear when sitting still does it grind?

if it does this could be the problem

if not then its something else

 

you can start the truck in first but it squeels bad when you push the clutch in but then when you release the clutch it drives fine but then you cantt change gears unless the truck is off , and it does grind hard when you try and change gears but wont let it change

 

brad: would you mind answering my questions under no. 11? I think you will have to tear it back apart anyway, but that may give us a clue as to whats wrong.

 

yeah i used an alignment tool to center the clutch,the transmition went right in but not all the way with an inch gab,so i had to force it in which probley was the problem , ive never done anything like this before so i tried but ill be taking it all apart again this week to find a problem,i need new bolts for the clutch,transmition and cross beam but couldnt find them ,any ideas? and would it be stupid to put a block lift on the truck, just saw one and didnt know...

 

if the clutch was aligned right should the transmition have went right in , what should i get when doing all this over again from greese to whatever i need?

 

Sounds like a slave cylinder/throwout bearing problem to me. I would take apart again and examine everything as you do to make sure everything was put in the correct way. I usually leave the pressure plate loose until I get the disc lined up properly with the alignment tool. Then I tighten the pressure plate to spec. the transmission should slide in fairly easily if everything is perfectly aligned and at the same angle.

 

Thank you everyone for your help ill keep you guys posted on what goes on just in case a run into problems

 

Pre fit everything before assembly. Make sure the clutch disc fiits on the transmission input shaft, before bolting to the flywheel with the pressure plate. The pilot bearing should be replaced, but the old one can be a PITA to remove. I had to use a hammer and cold chisel to remove the pilot bearing from my '88 F-150, pullers wouldn't work. Pre fit the new pilot bearing on the tip of the transmission shaft before installing it in the crankshaft.

I hope you have some sort of transmission jack so you don't have to manhandle the transmission during installation. That will help insure correct alignment.

 

forgot to add this in, i used a slide hammer for the pilot bearing and on the 3rd yank it fell on the ground, i pressed the new one in with the old bearing. yes it is a huge PITA to realign trans but you'll know when its right. DO NOT draw the trans to the motor with bolts, things will snap or bend, good luck, awesome work everyone

 

i'm in the process of doing this to my f150...i agree it was a major PITA to get the tranny lined up propery especially on my back with only 2 floor jacks to help....just so you know for next time make yourself a set of dowls out of a couple of spare bolts (find 2 bolts that thread into the holes, cut the heads off with a grinder and grind a slot in the top so you can remove them with a flathead after the tranny is lined up, then just slide the tranny over the dowls), this makes the alignment almost idiot proof. also i was able to get the tranny up to about 1/4 in from the block and realized the new slave had the release bearing pressed against the pressure plate not letting it slide all the way in, stuck in 2 bolts and the tranny eaisly tighted right up. hope this helps

 

x2! :)

Here's pictures of what he's talkin about... :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
7/16" course thread bolts with the heads cut off, those were 6" bolts and 5"
would prob'ly be plenty and have seriously thought about shortening one of
them a half inch so one is on then the other next, see? :)
So might try the idea for me? :)
I've had those since my first clutch job on my '75 F150 in '79.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepin.jpg
The transmission -slid- right up to there, slicker than snot on a door ****. :)
That's how they act when the parts -really- are lined up not just -look- like
they are. Got that? ;) It stopped at the locating pins on the engine block.

PITA?
How can it be a PITA?
It's just automotive parts. ;)
You are the only part of the situation to put a value judgment on it like that.
It's your attitude, not the parts that's a PITA. ;)

Transmission jacks are for mechanics, IM-PITA-O. LOL :)
This is easier, just takes longer to mess with it...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist3a.jpg <-- I like this picture
because I've already got the new clutch pedal installed. :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist4a.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist5a.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist6a.jpg

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist6m.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist7m.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist8m.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist9m.jpg
You can prob'ly come up with a better way to run the chain.
That was just temporary, I had to move it up to there, I had it too far back.

Alvin in AZ

 

good job with the pics alvin... i know i need to get a hoist, just didn't feel like dropping another $200 at harbor freight on this job, i'm sure i will someday though.

and brad just take your time and make sure you put it together correctly the first time, it will save you a huge headache later. also make sure you use quality NEW parts, you don't want something like the slave to fail and end up having to pull it apart again.