That is also consistent with ring or piston failure or valve failure.

Did you test for those?

 

no gearloose i did not cheack for that. do anyone know what a complete rebuild kit sells for or if the engine has sleves in the cylinders 155000 miles if i have to take the heads off might be best to redo the whole engine

 

Do compression test "plain"

Add a squirt of motor oil in the cylinder. Crank again and see what compression is.

If oil in cylinder "fixes" the low cylinders, then it is probably rings.

However, if it is still low, then you are looking at valves or cracked piston.


There is no way to know without opening it up.


Have the engine previously been used for very heavy duty towing beyond its limits?

Did previous owners use a mod chip?

Was there any hopping up?

Oversized turbo installed?

 

The truck looks to be completely stock i know the previous owner haul horses with it how muck weight i dont know i cant tell if a chip or programmer been added the turbo looks to be stock now was anything added and return to stock when he sold it i don't know thinks for the info on the compression test

 

Think long and hard before you delete the EGR.
Tighter emission testing is in MOST states future, same for the cat.
<O</O
THE FIRST reliability upgrade is a PRE turbo pyro gauge, watch it and let off at or before 1200*!

The second reliability upgrade is a coolant filter. A lot of knowledgeable (that wouldn’t be me) people think sand in the coolant from the manufacture is causing the EGR cooler to clog, causing it to leak, causing a lot of blown head gaskets.

3rd would be a 4” turbo back exhaust.

4<SUP>th</SUP> but should be done when you do # 1 is a REAL (in you have a auto) transmission gauge.
<O</O
My 5<SUP>th</SUP> would be a intake elbow from Accuab. This will lower your EGT’s.

6<SUP>TH</SUP> but should be #1, these motors like CLEAN fresh oil, change it religiously.

My 7<SUP>th</SUP> would be WaterWeter; put it in when you do #2.

<O</O
Disclaimer:
This is my “the way it should be done list”
I did it in this order.
3
7
5
1, 4
2, 7
<O</O
Insert #6 every 5 k miles, fuel filters ever 10K miles, drain HFCM every oil change.

<O</O
ab

 

i Did not think of emmision testing i might have to see what else can be dont about that i really would hate for that to fail on me vehicles break at the worst time on vecation out of town or some type of long run

 

when i bought the truck it was just service i would like to know if the air filter had a lot of crap that got pass it

 

Actually it's at 1250 on the pre-turbo reading. You can go higher, but don't stay higher then that reading for a few moments.

I would also add that having an EGT gauge would also be helpful in determing when to shut off the truck to allow the turbo to cool down before the truck is just turned off.





I wouldn't do this. Evidence that this really does do anything is anecdotal at best.



I would agree with you here, but I would also add using synthetic oil as a better choice of oil. By using synthetic oil, cool down time period(especially for the turbo) is much less.

To the OP here is what I would do if you are wanting to keep a stock truck(or close to a stock truck in case you do decide to add custom tunes).

1. If it is determined that the truck has headbolts, I would switch to headstuds by ARP. You can shop around to find the best deal. I wouldn't worry about a/m gaskets as A. they are a pain in the *** to install and require 100% accuracy in the install(stockers allow for some wiggle room for installation error) and B. Stock gaskets are good for up to ~550hp(which is more then what I'm pushing with my setup), so the gaskets are fairly good, these aren't the gaskets that were in the 02-04 mustangs that had all those problems.

I would make sure that the heads are flat and true before you seal everything up. If they aren't, you'll still run into head issues eventually. ARPs are a cure all if the heads are good, if not, you can still be getting back in their.

2. Gauges are another worthy investment. EGT, Tranny temp, Boost, Fuel PSI, and ECT and/or EOT are the ones that I would have to cover the broadstrokes of the engines vitals. The stock boost is fairly accurate, so you might be able to skimp on that if funds dictate that route, but it does help to have all those.

3. 4" Turbo Back Exhaust would also be another beneficial mod. Don't go over 4"s unless you plan to have the mods in my siggy. You go too big and it'll actually be counter productive and you'll lose low end grunt because of it.

4. ITPs Regulated Return is a good mod to do away with the dead-heading that's known on these engines. It provides constant fuel pressure to all cylinders. This is especially needed if you want to add injectors to compensate for a bigger turbo(you did mention the Aurora turbo, although I can think of better turbos then that one).

5. Fluidampner is something that isn't usually done by most, but it's another good mod. It helps reduce engine vibration at higher rpms. It really does help smooth out the engine. Be very beneficial if you upgrade turbos and injectors especially since you will be raising the peak hp/tq of the engine up the rpm range.

6. If you want to go the tuner route make sure you get custom tunes. You don't have to raise HP/TQ output if you don't want to or you can even detune the stock output as well(some do that, but most don't). Going custom will also be necessary if you get that bigger turbo like you said. There is alot of positive things I can say about going custom with regard to tunes(as can others), but that'll be a post in of itself if you need to get more indepth.



All of the ones mention above can be done and you shouldn't have to worry about emissions at all. The next ones listed are if you upgrade the injectors and/or turbo.

7. Injectors/turbos should be done with the mind of mating injectors needed to spool the turbo(or mate the turbo needed to help keep EGTs down while using the bigger injectors). If you go with a bigger turbo more then likely you'll need to go with bigger injectors to help spool the turbo, however, you can get bigger injectors and depending on their size, you might be able to keep the stock turbo depending on the EGT levels.

8. EGR System should either be bypassed(should still pass visual inspection, but is essentially just there for looks) or delete it. If you go with bigger injectors(at min. Stage Is flow 40% over stock), you are running the risk of having EGR and turbo issues due to more fuel being recycled back in the system. Now with Stage Is most tuners(the people that write custom tunes in this case) should be able to write tunes that should get you to pass opacity tests(if needed in your area), but any higher then that, they would have to pull too much fuel and that would be harmful to the injectors.

9. FASS or AirDog Fuel System is also going to be needed for a/m injectors. If your stock pump is working ok, might be able to get away with 150-155 mm^3 injectors and still use stock pump, but you might not. Mainly depend on the demand that the tunes create on the pump(this is were a fuel PSI gauge comes very much in handy, especially since fuel psi is also not monitored by the truck's computer either) will determine rather or not you'll need a bigger pump or not. Both of the mentioned systems are essentially the same, I use FASS, but the AirDog is actually quickly overcoming it.


I hope this gives you something to think about. I might think of other stuff, but this should be a start anyway.



Edit: I can't believe I forgot to mention this. Do not get an a/m intake unless you are going to put on injectors and turbo on the truck. For a stock or slightly modified(basically just tuned) truck you will not see any performance benefit from an a/m intake. Intakes at best flow more then stock when you hit 3700 on the tach. Peak HP and TQ is at 3300 and 2000 respectively, so you are going to be outside the usable range of the 6.0 engine when you "see" that increased airflow. Most people don't realize that, they just stop at it flows more then stock, but they should also think about when it flows more then stock. This also isn't getting into filtration and all that as well, which also seems to favor the stock intake more. Ford got this one right.

 

thanks tex25025 i found the elite high tow compound set It look sweet do any one know any thing about it if that is the case it look like my truck will be a big investment but like i said i plan on keeping it for a long time so i think it will be worth it i apperciate the in put it had be beat for a minute but reading and looking show me alot
thank everyone
when i am done i will post progress on the truck andwhat i done and how it works
Elite Diesel Engineering High Power Compound Turbo Kit for 6.0L Powerstroke

 

he's right dont get one, had one in my truck for about 2 months, sounded good, but didnt add any power or mpg, and didn't filter good, save your money for something else

 

Find out what the smaller turbo size is if you can. You are going to need either Stage III or Stage IV to support both turbos and depending on how big that small turbo is, it might make it hard for towing. I know it said it can be used for towing, but it didn't say what weight you can tow with it and those stages of injectors are usually unrealistic for towing at any level and can be unrealistic for street use even with pulling all the fuel that you can out of it.

It's not the hp levels that get you with bad street manners, its the fact that all that power is so high up the rpm range that you can't "get to it" on the streets(typically, unless you pretend the streets are like the nascar track, then you can).

If you are going to do that, and it might work at that, then you are going to need to do everything that I've mentioned at a bare minimum.

However, I want to add this caveat with the injectors. Whomever you use, make sure that you are able to get an emergency injector in case of one going bad on you. You won't be able to pull in just anywhere and get a new injector. They might install the injector for you, but you are going to have longer down time, because of the modified injector that you are needing. Also Stage IIIs and higher tend not to come with warranties either due to the harsh environment that they are under. Just some things to think about, when you change injectors and/or turbo, the entire ballgame changes.

 

tex25025 do that go for stage 1 and 2 injectors also. i want to keep it as a daily driver. it is nice and safe to keep the family in and i would hate to lose towing strength.

 

the FICM what is the chances of that going bad

 

Its easy enough to check, read this https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

 

Hi Guys,

Sorry to piggyback on your existing thread but I read your comments about the stock air filter. I just bought my truck used and it came with a BullyDog RFI setup. The previous owner said it helped but now I suspect it does not really do so. Would you recommend I try to get the original air cleaner back and install it?

Does this look like the right part? Did it change much from 2003 to 2006?

06 FORD F350 STOCK AIR CLEANER & ASSEMBLY 6.0 DIESEL:eBay Motors (item 180448645593 end time Jan-22-10 21:17:24 PST)