No 2d & 3d shift
Alighned shifters. wont grab 2-3.
Tranny definitely has 2-3.
Shifter bushings ok.
Also note that my reverse does not touch the reverse switch.
What needs fixed first?
Wayne
Can you shift between R & 1? If no, go under the hood and ****** the arm at the fire wall upward, or go under the truck and get both arms on the tranny in the middle position.
Your question is coming up a lot lately and I suspect cold weather is adding to the mix.
Get the truck into 1st while in the cab, lift it up towards R while pulling the lever towards the steering wheel. Once it is in N let the lever drop towards the dash and then up into 2nd with a slight pull of the lever towards the wheel.
This is what I learned many years ago to be able to use a worn shifting system.
John
What does OK mean? That the bushings are still in place? I'll betcha they're as hard as a rock and age cracked.
Your shift lever is binding up between first and second.
90% of the time, this is caused by these two bushings/insulators in the two manual control selector levers, located at the bottom of the steering column under the hood.
What happens is: The two rubber bushings harden up and age crack (eventually crack apart, sometimes fall out)...which causes the shift lever to bind up between 1st & 2nd.
This is a very common occurence with the 3 speed M/T used in 1965/72 F100/350's and 1973/77 F100/150's because all these trucks used the exact same parts.
C5TZ7343A .. Bushing & Insulator Kit / One kit does both levers / Ford just obsoleted this kit, but there are dozens still available at dealers/obsolete parts vendors:
LEJEUNE MOTOR CO in Jacksonville NC has 2 = 910-455-1551.
JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has 4 = 615-443-3086.
KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has 8 = 800-816-2894.
CARPENTER OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 10 = 704-786-8139.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 16 = 800-543-4959.
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 34 = 888-727-0418.
Drove these pickups when new. Know how to shift.

First, before I posted I did a search and read each posting on this topic. Looked up the part numbers that are cut & paste in each shifting problem string. Do not want to just start throwing money at the problem, blindly replacing parts. I'd like to know why I replace and rebuild.
Already posted the bushings were good.
Bushings cause binding. Not a binding, not adusted to shift or something is broke. It shifts between 1st & reverse fine, second and third column location is more 1st and reverse. Best I have been able to do is get close to a grind to second before 1 & R no Shift. PO threw $$$ at truck, and I am glad. Tranny shifts with linkage off - validated.Play may be in shifter. I must get a spotter to view. Truck is in warm shop on up on down off jack stands.
BTW - When I shift, it bumps the signals on. There must be wear in the column...
What components in shifter will tighten it up? Is it mainly D5TZ-7228-B shift collar and the, insulator and pin to shift handle, or is there bushings at the end of the shifter rods that take the slop out? The bearings in my steering shaft for wheel are tight, the shifter is worn. Collar pin is worn.
I went to LMC truck site to look for parts and it seems by looking at the parts line drawings, most of the replaceable wear parts is is at and is the collar. What else is repairable?
I looked at the new shift columns, which are more than I paid for the truck.
Cab mounts, read the postings that looks and missing rusted out cab mounts will cause grinding out on the road. Got it. I am only trying to make it shift in the shop. A road test is later, and will deal with moving cab.
Based on the research I have done so far, the collar is the culpit. Should I try to find a salvage column and rebuild and replace or blindly buy a collar and replace parts on mine till something fixes it? I am leaning toward a entire used column. BTW all electrics on this truck work. Clutch good, engine good, brakes good, steering rebuilt. PO could not make shift.
Can you shift between R & 1? If no, go under the hood and ****** the arm at the fire wall upward, or go under the truck and get both arms on the tranny in the middle position.
Your question is coming up a lot lately and I suspect cold weather is adding to the mix.
Get the truck into 1st while in the cab, lift it up towards R while pulling the lever towards the steering wheel. Once it is in N let the lever drop towards the dash and then up into 2nd with a slight pull of the lever towards the wheel.
This is what I learned many years ago to be able to use a worn shifting system.
John

You are describing some kind of slop in the linkage- the two rods that go from the H box on the column to the trans. What you need to do is to crawl under and pull the pins that connect the rods to the trans. Make sure the ebrake is on and the tires are blocked before you do because the truck might roll if you are on an incline. Manually shift the transmission through all four gears by flipping the levers up and down. You should feel the gears seat. One lever controls first and reverse, the other second and high gear. Then, put the transmission in neutral (Both levers in the middle position), and put the shift lever in the neutral position. The rods connecting to the trans should drop right in if all is correct. If they don't, adjust the rod length by turning the nuts on the threaded rodsffice
ffice" /><O
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>(That sounds so ez. - it worked on all trucks before. I must have something broken or worn terribly) </O
>3 Speed Manual Transmission: There are two possible reasons why you are having this problem...which is quite common on trucks of this vintage.
#1) At the bottom of the steering column under the hood are the two manual control selector levers that the shift rods from the transmission attach to.
In each one of these levers is a rubber bushing and insulator.
What happens: The rubber bushings harden up, and crack apart and may have fallen out.
When any of this occurs, the shift lever binds up. (I have good bushings.)
This is a VERY common problem that affected all 1965/79's with a 3 speed manual, because all used these same parts.
C5TZ7343A .. Bushing & Insulator Kit / One kit does both levers / Ford just obsoleted this kit.
Since you are in CA, here are the CA sources that have this kit.
(I am in VA)
VILLA FORD in Orange CA has ONE.
STAN MORRI FORD in Tracy CA has ONE = 209-835-4821.
SUSANVILLE FORD in Susanville CA has TWO.
--------------------------------------------
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 16 = 800-543-4959
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 34 = 888-727-0418.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
#2) The shift lever fits into the shift collar. The collar is notorious for breaking into two separate pieces where it connects to the shift tube.
When this occurs, the shift lever flops around, so it will not engage anything. (can someone explain this, where do I look for the flop...)
This collar was available from NAPA, dunno if it still is...or not.
The same collar fits all 1965/72 F100/350's; 1973/74 F100's; 1960/65 Falcon/Comet's; and 1966/77 Bronco's all w/a 3 speed manual: CODZ7228B.
In 1975, Ford replaced CODZ7228B with D5TZ7228B which fits all the previous applications and 1975/77 F100/150's.
Both of these shift collars are obsolete-no longer available from Ford, but there are 100's still available at Ford , obsolete parts vendors.
(Have pictures of each of these parts, If I could post pictures, it would save nobies of future a lot of grief with pictures that speak a thousand words).
I knew that when I typed the sources.
I looked to see where you lived before I typed the sources. Three of those...if you noticed...were the closest sources to VA that had the kit.
inre to the shift collar: If it has broken into two pieces internally, you aren't going anywhere, because the collar is no longer connected to the shift tube.
This causes the shift lever to hang limp, when you try moving it, it just flops around aimlessly.
If you are still thinking of replacing it, no one in VA has any. I found five of the original collars (Ford part number CODZ7228B):
One at JST AUTOMOTIVE in TN 615-443-3086 / Two at MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY 800-546-7278.
Two more at BOB ALLEN FORD in Overland Park KS (800-676-0675) who wants BIG bucks for obsolete parts.
CODZ7228B was later replaced by Ford with D5TZ7228B. It fits fine, but looks slightly different. I found around 150 of these.
There is one upper and one lower bearing (both: C3DZ3517A) inside the column, but neither would be the cause of the problem.
There are no other bearings in the column, none where the two shift rods connect to the transmission.
IMO, it's not the shift collar since it actuates 1st and reverse, you say it's not the bushings, it's prolly not the shift rods either.
Post#1: If I'm reading it correctly, you disconnected the 2/3 shift rod from the trans and were then able to engage 2/3 that way.
The Ford Parts guru had usefull information.
Thanks will use it, as likely others. Again thanks. Anyway..
With the aid of a helper, followed the directions found on another website, that was inserted above post, which was: removed both rods -insert 3/16th rod (drill bit) up center of shifter column bottom end, align the shifters, find tranny neutral on both levers and adjust rod to freepin fit.
It shifts. Drove the truck for the first time. All gears work. No grinding. However second is not 100%, sorta hit with occasional miss. Always can upshift from third. It shifts most times OK.
It does not shift perfect, with #2 the glitch. The amount of play I have in the shift collar is significant. So, now, I know I can work with this old
column.
Note in shifter theory, more a question statement than fact. By experiment, found that manal tranny shifts were one lever or the other, not combination of both. Did not know that. Speculation; The two shift lever rods each work one lever; ie first and reverse, and second and third. The other rod must be in neutral for the next lever to work. Binding and grinding occurs when opposite lever is attempting to function, and the other has motion vice in true neutral for that rod. Again, not fact, just speculation theory from working with this one.
Will order the parts, & onto another project and task while the parts are shipped.
Have a Merry Christmas; all.
Trending Topics
I love know it all idiots like you.
John
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Thank you for the information. Again have a Merry Christmas.
I keep an old early Bronco in the Barn Farm Tagged that I stuffed a 4BT Cummins engine from a Bread truck under hood. My son specifically wanted a F100, and thus here I am. Its about ready for state inspection, and off to his driveway.


im guilty of being a smart *** all the time!
just all parta the game and parta being on the forums.
how long have you had the truck? what i really think is that every old vehicle no matter what make it is, is completely unique and has its own little tricks and ways that it likes being driven, and you must just figure it out and "become one" with the truck. (or just yank out your whole drivetrain from the bellhousing on back, and trade me for my C6 automatic so you can drive it like the nancy u know u are and not ever have to worry about shifting gears again bahahahahaha!!!!!
But something I have learned. Take crap. Get crap. Treat how you want to be treated.
If that is what it takes to get jollies. OK. They taught me in church to turn the other cheek. Didnt listen. But I tend to smack back. The line willl be held up on judgment day, cause I am not perfect.
As posted, bought the truck for my son, he specifically wanted a Ford 100.
He's getting it. It runs good. Handles good. Soon it will shift perfect too.
SO know what you mean about forgetting how to do old tasks.
IHad never used the 3/16" guide. Always just neutral and put the rods in free pin fit. Must admit, the rod works better --NO, NO best. My methods were of NO USE on this truck.
Once I was following directions: Kept looking where to slide the rod in. On my son's F100, there is a band around the column end, and rod went in, but there were no holes for alignment on shifters. Then I found the correct place, which is center "top" side of column, slid it in, and found both alignment holes. So simple. So basic.

Anyway, this THREAD is just about dead. That was three or four projects ago.
Thanks ALL for your time & participation.
Again, Merry Christmas. Happy new 2010.
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I call YOU out sir, for the *** you are. Your response was small man assinine from the beginning. YOU were an ***. Still? I let you know it. You did not answer the question, Jowilker contribution = none.
I won't back down from a smart *** who post from afar you have to learn to shift old trucks-=the true badge of experience and basin of knowlege. There was NO information in that smart *** remark. I'd love to meet you sir, doubt your courage to come off in person like that. The internet has braven men like you to think they are both smart and bold. The internet lets you think you know all the anwers once someone else provides the correct response, passive knowlege the internet.
This old truck is not my passion, or my passtime. It was just one project, many ago. You own this forum. I'm sure. While you will be here daily- likely, gosh have other things to do.
Had a question. needed answer. Jowiler didn't provide it. You call idiot from afar, after the fact, would lack courgage to say face to face. While you are here making purpose in your life, have so so many things to do.
Interesting, you live only about forty minutes away...
later.. or do you really want a person to person meeting to give me just a small piece of your mind. I travel. I can be SUCH a great listener before my final response.
Wayne
Logged into forum once to ask question, thereafter, only responding to emails Thread is dead from my end. Had truck that would not shift, it now shifts. Let this topic die. This so called IDIOT will be off fixing something else. IDIOT only because angry little man got insulted from being called for his internet rudeness. Suggestion; don't do it again. "Know it all" asked a question, and got little big man on forum smart *** remark empty of useful information. Truck was fixed without the lord of knowledge providing anything but a smart *** remark, day after in know it all's shop. How exactly did you help? None. So if thats what it takes to be an idiot, asking a question, getting no help from the little smart mouth man lord of knowledge, who later knew the anwer all along, we are all idiots before, during and after visiting this forum. Won't be at THAT OTHER FORUM, because I don't live in forums. I only visit for information. The internet is not where I live.
I want to be clear - did not complain of forum answers except from one forum personality. That of jowilker. Thanked all other responders. Jowilker is an internet ***.
Last edited by WayneBurton; Dec 24, 2009 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Creedmoor NC
If you want to bring your sorry butt lick breath to Creedmoor, I am 3.5 miles off I-85 ex 191 and right on S. Main St. I am not hard to find at all.
I have a request for you please let me know when you want to come so that I can be at home and provide your mothers phone number, so the local PD will have a contact for the only one that might might care about your scum bucket sorry *** and want it back if you come here acting a FOOL.
best Christmas wishes
John





