Hi all....newbie here. I've been turning wrenches on a '63 Unibody LWB now for a few months. I started it off with a full rebuild of a I6 223 with a Carter RBS squirting the fuel. I was very pleased when it fired off and how smooth it runs. I also converted over to a alternator which has worked out nicely. My goal is a rough but straight body, with a reliable drivetrain that I can use as a grocery getter or an occasional Home Depot buggy.

Everything was going smooth until I installed the clutch and test drove it. When the clutch starts to engage in first gear or in reverse, the truck turns into an overgrown paint shaker. I'm left scratching my head since through the process of installing the clutch and other components I thought I had covered all my bases.

I started off by having the flywheel resurfaced at a local machine shop. I installed the fly wheel and torqued down to spec. I set up the dial caliper to check for runout. All looked good. Once torqueing down the bellhousing, I again setup the dial caliper to check bellhousing bore runout and the alignment of the trans mating surface. All a go. I installed the new clutch from Dennis Carpenter. Cleaned it good and made sure not to get any grease on the surface during the install. Pilot bearing, pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing assembly is all new. In fact, Dennis Carpenter has sent me two clutches in which I've installed and have yet to find what is causing my problem. I've also replaced the universal joints. Nothing helps! So I joined the forum, paid the money and am all ears. If anyone can give me a few ideas at what I'm missing, I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise, I'm quite certain I could find gainful employment at the local Sherwin Williams. Anyone know what they pay for those paint shakers? Thanks

 

Bad motor mount, transmission mount?

 

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that all the motor mounts are new.

 

Does it shake when the pedal is all the way depressed, or half way out? Or all the way out and in gear?Or in neutral? Ive had a clutch out of balance, and it shook the whole truck......t/m

 

It only shakes when the truck starts to roll in 1st or reverse from a dead stop. If the clutch is fully depressed or fully released, it's fine. It only shudders in the between stage as the clutch is being released and the truck starts to roll. Hope this helps and thanks for the reply.

 

Is pressure plate Diaphragm type or long type? Super Duty Pressure Plates



Diaphragm Pressure Plates
Diaphragm style pressure plates offer performance holding power without extreme pedal pressures. RAM diaphragm plates are assembled using explosion resistant pressure rings, heavy duty 3000 pound static pressure springs, new covers, and hardware. Quick, clean release is a standard characteristic of this clutch. Use diaphragm pressure plates for heavy duty street and limited competition when used in conjunction with a proper clutch disc for the application. For full competition vehicles, please consider the RAM Long Style pressure plates.
Long Style Pressure Plates
The long style is the preferred pressure plate for true competition clutch systems. These units provide a combination of static and centrifugal pressure. This characteristic allows setting up the clutch to suit the car and track conditions. Static pressure is provided by coil springs and remains constant throughout the RPM range of the motor. Additional pressure is provided by centrifugal force acting on the levers which impart this force to the pressure ring of the clutch. Centrifugal pressure is RPM sensitive, meaning the force increases as the engine RPM increases. Long style clutches are available with fixed static and centrifugal pressure or with adjustable pressures to allow precise clutch tuning. Other benefits are: explosion resistant pressure rings, chrome vanadium springs for long life, and welded spring guide cups in a heavy duty cover. RAM builds long style clutches with counterweight levers for non-shifting applications such as Lenco or other clutchless transmissions.
Borg & Beck Pressure Plates
Borg & Beck clutches are used in applications where higher RPM is a consideration, or for Chrysler and AMC applications where fitting a long style clutch may be a problem. All units are assembled using explosion resistant pressure rings, heavy duty levers and hardware, chrome vanadium springs, and new covers. Increased pedal effort can be expected, and may require strengthening of your clutch linkage components for proper operation.

 

I've read that having worn leaf spring bushings will cause shudder. You may want to take a look at those. good luck

 

OK...I'm in!! I'll give it a shot and report back as to what happens. Any advice out there for changing out the bushings. Follow the service manual I guess?!?!?

 

those bushings get stuck with rust. I actually had to replace my springs so I had the spring shop do it. I've seen guys set the bushing on fire and hammer them out. Not the most environmentally correct way though - too much smoke!

 

My guess is rotten cab mounts. If you're lucky, the rubber ones. If your not so lucky, the sheet metal. If your driver side mount looks like Swiss Cheese, I'll almost be willing to put money on it.
Mechanical linkage doesn't work so well when one or more of it points moves in a way it shouldn't. Another indication of this is acceleration while going over a bump. The cab lifts off the frame which forces the throttle to open slightly.

 

Two piece drive shaft? Inspect the carrier bearing and the rubber mount around it. Raise the hood, have someone watch the engine as you let out the clutch. Hold the truck with the foot brake and put some pressure on the motor mounts, increase the RPM and gently engage the clutch to see if the engine is moving around. Did the pilot bearing come out during this repair/overhaul? Did you install a new one? Did you put the clutch disk in backwards? Does the disk slide easily on the pilot shaft?

 

Did you use the clutch centering tool to center the clutch before tightening down the pressure plate?

 

William, Thanks for the inspection procedures. Those are some things I hadn't thought of. The holiday schedule is keeping me from being able to tinker on it, but I'll get to it some time this week and report back.

I did replace the pilot bearing during the rebuild. I've double checked the clutch disk direction. (Spring hub aft.....right?) Otherwise it wouldn't contact the flywheel. I didn't have any problems getting the input shaft to install into the disc. It was a nice tight fit. I did use the clutch centering tool.

Thanks for all the input.....and keep the questions and comments coming. I'm making sure to follow up on anything and everything you all tell me.

 

Make sure the tailshaft yoke has plenty of lube on it. Some timesthese get dry/rusty and make a lot of noise.

 

I have the exact same problem when I did my new clutch, I changed motor mounts, even bought a new clutch and had it put in by a garage, still has a shrudder in first gear. Normal driving no problem, but a very slow release I can make a milk shake.