Missing Hoses & Tubes Broken
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Yup, someone's already put a non-feedback carb on there for you. If you want to completely switch to a non-feedback setup and ditch the computer, you'll need a Duraspark II distributor (about $70 new) and an ignition module from an earlier truck (around $50 new). You can also probably get both used. Personally, I'd switch to the DII setup instead of trying to get the feedback setup working correctly. It'll probably cost less in the long run, especially since you already have the carb.
If you convert back to a manual choke, you'll probably need the rest of the kit, which includes cables and the stuff inside the cab to operate it. The electric choke actually works really well. You'll need a wire hooked up to it, and then a choke tube put into the carb (looks like it's missing) and run down to the exhaust manifold for warmth.
I know what you mean about being loose. When I first got mine, the only thing holding it on was the air cleaner. The bolts were all out. It'd stall every time I went over a bump and it took me a while to figure out whey. Get that all tightened up (the carb actually looks pretty new) and you'll probably notice some differences.
If you convert back to a manual choke, you'll probably need the rest of the kit, which includes cables and the stuff inside the cab to operate it. The electric choke actually works really well. You'll need a wire hooked up to it, and then a choke tube put into the carb (looks like it's missing) and run down to the exhaust manifold for warmth.
I know what you mean about being loose. When I first got mine, the only thing holding it on was the air cleaner. The bolts were all out. It'd stall every time I went over a bump and it took me a while to figure out whey. Get that all tightened up (the carb actually looks pretty new) and you'll probably notice some differences.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
cool. you got it. last rebuild kit I got came from advanced for $18. get some of the carb cleaner that you can soak it in, and have fun. hardest thing to do is set the float. the number you need for the kit is on the green tag, up by the air horn.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Ok, I'm about 3/5 of the way through in disassembling the carb and so far so good. However, I do have one question. The fuel inlet filter (part #22 in instructions) isnt present. Is this a problem? I look in the vent hole and its just not there.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
fuel inlet filter is the outside screw in piece. use a little pipe dope on the threads, not the white teflon tape, gas melts the tape, and deposits it in all the passeges. when you screw it in, make it tight, but not stupid tight, the threads are brass, and strip out very quickly, makeing your new carb useless. I also cut the line right above the fuel pump, and install a inline filter. if you use a clear one, you can keep an eye on it's condition. it's 5/16", you can get them at wall mart. I was going back through the thread, and realized I gave you the wrong oil filter #. you want a motorcraft FL 1 A. sorry about that.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
make sure that every thing is dinner plate clean, and you will have great results. if you don't have a compresser to blow out the passeges, use the caned air like you clean your keyboard with. remember to take your time setting the float level. check it 2, or 3 times before you put the top back on, nothing sucks more than haveing to take the new carb apart to re set the float.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
I just finished taking the carb apart. The thermostat cover had 1 screw and 2 rivets, so unfortunately the Choke Cover Ring Clamp got bent taking it off. I don't see another one in the kit. I guess I'll have to steal one off the wrong carb in the truck.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
How about all the sensors and solenoids that attach to the carb. THese will probably need to be replaced? Do you have the names of them. I should be able to use the Thermostat and choke pull off valve from the other carb, but these others are pretty nasty on the boneyard carb.