Yup, someone's already put a non-feedback carb on there for you. If you want to completely switch to a non-feedback setup and ditch the computer, you'll need a Duraspark II distributor (about $70 new) and an ignition module from an earlier truck (around $50 new). You can also probably get both used. Personally, I'd switch to the DII setup instead of trying to get the feedback setup working correctly. It'll probably cost less in the long run, especially since you already have the carb.

If you convert back to a manual choke, you'll probably need the rest of the kit, which includes cables and the stuff inside the cab to operate it. The electric choke actually works really well. You'll need a wire hooked up to it, and then a choke tube put into the carb (looks like it's missing) and run down to the exhaust manifold for warmth.

I know what you mean about being loose. When I first got mine, the only thing holding it on was the air cleaner. The bolts were all out. It'd stall every time I went over a bump and it took me a while to figure out whey. Get that all tightened up (the carb actually looks pretty new) and you'll probably notice some differences.

 

How do you tell if you have a feedback or non feedback carb?

 

The non-feedback looks just like what you have in those pictures. The feedback has several different solenoids bolted to it. You can see them in these pics:

 

Ok, so I went to the junkyard and picked up the carburetor for $36. So now I just need to pick me up a rebuild kit and the real fun will begin.

 

cool. you got it. last rebuild kit I got came from advanced for $18. get some of the carb cleaner that you can soak it in, and have fun. hardest thing to do is set the float. the number you need for the kit is on the green tag, up by the air horn.

 

Does 8527 sound right? or 8509?

 

looks like E5TE-FA-A-8-B-3

 

Ok, I'm about 3/5 of the way through in disassembling the carb and so far so good. However, I do have one question. The fuel inlet filter (part #22 in instructions) isnt present. Is this a problem? I look in the vent hole and its just not there.

 

fuel inlet filter is the outside screw in piece. use a little pipe dope on the threads, not the white teflon tape, gas melts the tape, and deposits it in all the passeges. when you screw it in, make it tight, but not stupid tight, the threads are brass, and strip out very quickly, makeing your new carb useless. I also cut the line right above the fuel pump, and install a inline filter. if you use a clear one, you can keep an eye on it's condition. it's 5/16", you can get them at wall mart. I was going back through the thread, and realized I gave you the wrong oil filter #. you want a motorcraft FL 1 A. sorry about that.

 

Ok, my instructions make it look like is on the inside. I couldn't for the life of me figure out where it was. Thanks. I'm just about finished disassembling, then comes the fun part cleaning.

 

make sure that every thing is dinner plate clean, and you will have great results. if you don't have a compresser to blow out the passeges, use the caned air like you clean your keyboard with. remember to take your time setting the float level. check it 2, or 3 times before you put the top back on, nothing sucks more than haveing to take the new carb apart to re set the float.

 

I just finished taking the carb apart. The thermostat cover had 1 screw and 2 rivets, so unfortunately the Choke Cover Ring Clamp got bent taking it off. I don't see another one in the kit. I guess I'll have to steal one off the wrong carb in the truck.

 

Also, I have a bunch of wires cut in the engine. Am I going to have problems installing this feedback carb in this engine with all these wires cut.

 

we'll help you with that. look at kevin's pic he posted, there are some of them, let me know I can take some more of the views you don't have.

 

How about all the sensors and solenoids that attach to the carb. THese will probably need to be replaced? Do you have the names of them. I should be able to use the Thermostat and choke pull off valve from the other carb, but these others are pretty nasty on the boneyard carb.