Important tune up information
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
My owner's manual says the spark plug for my 1990 4.0 has part number AWSF-42P, and the gap specification is on the emissions certification sticker under the hood.
The original plugs were bank-specific, as one side had the platinum on the center electrode while the other side had it on the ground due to the pairs of plugs driven by the same coil. I still have mine somewhere, so I should dig them out and look up their numbers. It's highly recommended that the replacements be dual-platinum, as they don't tell you which side needs the platinum tip on the center or ground end. I did not know this when I replaced my plugs some 50 thousand miles ago, but I've not seen ill effects yet. I'm expecting that one tip on one side will erode faster than the other widening the gap slowly, to the point where the spark will no longer jump the gap, and maybe start leaking out of the plug wires. If and when that time comes, I can be cheap and pull out the plugs to look at the tips, re-gap them, re-install them in different positions, and run them until they wear out again. But I did get a set of APP's for when the old plugs must be replaced.
The original plugs were bank-specific, as one side had the platinum on the center electrode while the other side had it on the ground due to the pairs of plugs driven by the same coil. I still have mine somewhere, so I should dig them out and look up their numbers. It's highly recommended that the replacements be dual-platinum, as they don't tell you which side needs the platinum tip on the center or ground end. I did not know this when I replaced my plugs some 50 thousand miles ago, but I've not seen ill effects yet. I'm expecting that one tip on one side will erode faster than the other widening the gap slowly, to the point where the spark will no longer jump the gap, and maybe start leaking out of the plug wires. If and when that time comes, I can be cheap and pull out the plugs to look at the tips, re-gap them, re-install them in different positions, and run them until they wear out again. But I did get a set of APP's for when the old plugs must be replaced.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
It comes from the factory with those two different plugs, but you have to replace it with their specified part number, and I'm guessing it must be double-platinum so you don't have to worry about which model goes into which side. Or you can by the Autolite APP* versions.
I can't believe that it makes financial sense to do this, since it must cost more to keep two different parts on the assembly line that have to be installed in specific positions than to just use a single part that may cost slightly more.
I can't believe that it makes financial sense to do this, since it must cost more to keep two different parts on the assembly line that have to be installed in specific positions than to just use a single part that may cost slightly more.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
OT: forum software crap
I should have learned by now to never use the Quick Reply box on any topic page. I have lost several posts when using it. You type a bunch of stuff, click on either "Post Quick Reply" or "Go Advanced", and you are presented with a page that says your token has expired, and to go back a page and reload it.
When you go back a page, the text that you'd typed is gone. ****! I *hate* vBulletin forum software. Aside from the cost, it just ****s on you.
I use an old version of phpBB on my own site. It's far from perfect, but you never make your user type stuff twice!
phpBB doesn't censor by default, either.
When you go back a page, the text that you'd typed is gone. ****! I *hate* vBulletin forum software. Aside from the cost, it just ****s on you.
I use an old version of phpBB on my own site. It's far from perfect, but you never make your user type stuff twice!
phpBB doesn't censor by default, either.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
From the 1997 Aerostar Owners Manual, page 293:
(click on image for larger)
1997 Aerostar 4.0l underhood decal:
(click on image for larger)
So, the Owners Manual and the underhood decal do not agree (no PP spec'd on the decal).
I'm running the Autolite APP103 double platinum in mine.
(click on image for larger)
Originally Posted by 1997 Aerostar Owners Manual
(paraphrasing, for the search engines)
3.0l = AWSF-32PP
4.0l = AGSF-22-P
Note: if a spark plug is removed for examination, it must be reinstalled in the same cylinder.
Cylinders #1, #2, #3 have a PG suffix
Cylinders #4, #5, #6 have a P suffix
If a spark plug needs to be replaced, use only spark plugs with the service part number suffix letter PP as shown on the engine decal.
3.0l = AWSF-32PP
4.0l = AGSF-22-P
Note: if a spark plug is removed for examination, it must be reinstalled in the same cylinder.
Cylinders #1, #2, #3 have a PG suffix
Cylinders #4, #5, #6 have a P suffix
If a spark plug needs to be replaced, use only spark plugs with the service part number suffix letter PP as shown on the engine decal.
(click on image for larger)
Originally Posted by 1997 Aerostar 4.0l underhood decal
(for the search engines)
Spark Plug: AGRF-22P
Gap: .052 - .056"
Spark Plug: AGRF-22P
Gap: .052 - .056"
I'm running the Autolite APP103 double platinum in mine.
Last edited by asavage; Oct 6, 2012 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Left out a hyphen in part number.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
believe the underhood decal is the EPA required emissions decal that has to list exact OEM factory installed plugs and other EPA required parts to meet emissions specs.
The Feds and some states can even fail for inspection an EPA engine that doesn't have veh. manuf spec'd or veh. manuf. listed brand crossed replacement plugs
the factory installed OEM plugs were a bean counter design, remember that tiny spec of platinum costs $0.02 cents.
lots of DIY owners got screwed pulling cleaning and replacing these plugs, got the lefties and righteys mixed up.
want the link to the Ford EDIS info page?
with Calif emissions veh's, even God can't help.
The Feds and some states can even fail for inspection an EPA engine that doesn't have veh. manuf spec'd or veh. manuf. listed brand crossed replacement plugs
the factory installed OEM plugs were a bean counter design, remember that tiny spec of platinum costs $0.02 cents.
lots of DIY owners got screwed pulling cleaning and replacing these plugs, got the lefties and righteys mixed up.
want the link to the Ford EDIS info page?
with Calif emissions veh's, even God can't help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
ok gents, please have mercy on this guy! PP? PG? lefty/righty?
exactly what side is lefty?
lefty if you're sitting in the driver's seat?
or lefty if you're standing in front of the van looking at the center of the engine?
every car has two left sides, depending where you are.
again, it's no wonder I have a misfiring engine!
exactly what side is lefty?
lefty if you're sitting in the driver's seat?
or lefty if you're standing in front of the van looking at the center of the engine?
every car has two left sides, depending where you are.
again, it's no wonder I have a misfiring engine!
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Honestly, it's easiest to use the Autolite APP103 plugs in all six cylinders, & forget about left-side & right-side plugs. I posted all those Ford numbers above for historical purposes, not as a buying guide!
I just bought a set retail at NAPA for about $3.75 each with no discount; I'm sure they can be had for less. They're double-platinum electrodes and work for both sides.
The convention is, and AFAIK has always been, that left/right orientation is as you sit in the driver's seat.
Here's a nice cheat-sheet:
I just bought a set retail at NAPA for about $3.75 each with no discount; I'm sure they can be had for less. They're double-platinum electrodes and work for both sides.
The convention is, and AFAIK has always been, that left/right orientation is as you sit in the driver's seat.
Here's a nice cheat-sheet:
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Honestly, it's easiest to use the Autolite APP103 plugs in all six cylinders, & forget about left-side & right-side plugs. I posted all those Ford numbers above for historical purposes, not as a buying guide!
I just bought a set retail at NAPA for about $3.75 each with no discount; I'm sure they can be had for less. They're double-platinum electrodes and work for both sides.
The convention is, and AFAIK has always been, that left/right orientation is as you sit in the driver's seat.
I just bought a set retail at NAPA for about $3.75 each with no discount; I'm sure they can be had for less. They're double-platinum electrodes and work for both sides.
The convention is, and AFAIK has always been, that left/right orientation is as you sit in the driver's seat.
my my, I had never dealt with such a spaghetti of spark plug confusions.
I'm going to order the plugs.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
You haven't had to deal with the 12-cylinder Jags?
I worked in a shop where a tech had a Dodge 3.3l (I think) out of a minivan for a leaking casting plug behind the flex plate. When he put it back together, after also replacing the plugs & wires & cap, it wouldn't start, with lots of misfire/backfiring. I told him the wires were installed wrong, but he kept checking the firing order in the Alldata reference against the wires order in the cap, and every time they were the same. Finally, he used the actual order in the cap in the Alldata graphic for the wires, rather than the firing order, & it fired right up.
Turns out, the distributor cap's internal wiring isn't straight through. The tower does not wire to the contact directly underneath it; where the wires plug into the top of the cap is not the same sequence as the rotor hits the contacts.
Drove him crazy for a couple of hours.
I worked in a shop where a tech had a Dodge 3.3l (I think) out of a minivan for a leaking casting plug behind the flex plate. When he put it back together, after also replacing the plugs & wires & cap, it wouldn't start, with lots of misfire/backfiring. I told him the wires were installed wrong, but he kept checking the firing order in the Alldata reference against the wires order in the cap, and every time they were the same. Finally, he used the actual order in the cap in the Alldata graphic for the wires, rather than the firing order, & it fired right up.
Turns out, the distributor cap's internal wiring isn't straight through. The tower does not wire to the contact directly underneath it; where the wires plug into the top of the cap is not the same sequence as the rotor hits the contacts.
Drove him crazy for a couple of hours.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
[QUOTE=asavage;12346445]You haven't had to deal with the 12-cylinder Jags? /QUOTE]
noooo thank you, 6 cylinders is plenty!
**thank you for the routing graph, it will save me hours of migraine headaches. Do the plug wires need to be made of any special material like kryptonite or plutonium? the ones in my van look pretty new to me. Man, cars are money pits.
noooo thank you, 6 cylinders is plenty!
**thank you for the routing graph, it will save me hours of migraine headaches. Do the plug wires need to be made of any special material like kryptonite or plutonium? the ones in my van look pretty new to me. Man, cars are money pits.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 252
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
I have mine own opinion on plug wires, but following the recommendations upthread will work.
Mainly, you want to keep oil off of them, use the diaelectric grease on the spark plug end of the boots to prevent them welding themselves to the ceramic, and route them in the OEM clips (or get creative with nylon ties) to keep them off the manifolds.
A tip: I don't know what others do, but the wires routing for the left bank (driver's side) plugs runs through/between the legs of the plastic intake plenum. I used the baling wire fishing method to fish mine through there, as I couldn't find another way to duplicate the OEM routing, and the wires on that side do not have sufficient slack to allow routing over the top of the plenum.
IOW, don't just yank the old left-side wires out; tie a length of wire or string or floss or something to the old wire before fishing it out, so you have a way to fish the new wire in.
This is only an issue with driver's side wires.
Mainly, you want to keep oil off of them, use the diaelectric grease on the spark plug end of the boots to prevent them welding themselves to the ceramic, and route them in the OEM clips (or get creative with nylon ties) to keep them off the manifolds.
A tip: I don't know what others do, but the wires routing for the left bank (driver's side) plugs runs through/between the legs of the plastic intake plenum. I used the baling wire fishing method to fish mine through there, as I couldn't find another way to duplicate the OEM routing, and the wires on that side do not have sufficient slack to allow routing over the top of the plenum.
IOW, don't just yank the old left-side wires out; tie a length of wire or string or floss or something to the old wire before fishing it out, so you have a way to fish the new wire in.
This is only an issue with driver's side wires.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
Jose,
just stick with your smooth running straight 6 cyl Jags and you have no worries, there are no lefties and righties.
loved my old straight 6 hole babbit beater Chev. 50 Chevy coupe and my old 71 Toyota REAL Land Cruiser tank smooth OHV carb'd straight 6 banger with the thick real steel body. could fix that rig anywhere, 30 miles back in Alberta moose country on a mud road and 2 ft of snow with a screw driver and a Crescent wrench.
God, please make real cars and trucks again that we humans can work on.
I got a Crescent wrench that works on both inch and metric, now give my real meaty spark plugs that stick out far enough so I can get my Crescent on them
just stick with your smooth running straight 6 cyl Jags and you have no worries, there are no lefties and righties.
loved my old straight 6 hole babbit beater Chev. 50 Chevy coupe and my old 71 Toyota REAL Land Cruiser tank smooth OHV carb'd straight 6 banger with the thick real steel body. could fix that rig anywhere, 30 miles back in Alberta moose country on a mud road and 2 ft of snow with a screw driver and a Crescent wrench.
God, please make real cars and trucks again that we humans can work on.
I got a Crescent wrench that works on both inch and metric, now give my real meaty spark plugs that stick out far enough so I can get my Crescent on them
ok gents, please have mercy on this guy! PP? PG? lefty/righty?
exactly what side is lefty?
lefty if you're sitting in the driver's seat?
or lefty if you're standing in front of the van looking at the center of the engine?
every car has two left sides, depending where you are.
again, it's no wonder I have a misfiring engine!
exactly what side is lefty?
lefty if you're sitting in the driver's seat?
or lefty if you're standing in front of the van looking at the center of the engine?
every car has two left sides, depending where you are.
again, it's no wonder I have a misfiring engine!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Jose,
just stick with your smooth running straight 6 cyl Jags and you have no worries, there are no lefties and righties. loved my old straight 6 hole babbit beater Chev. 50 Chevy coupe and my old 71 Toyota REAL Land Cruiser tank smooth OHV carb'd straight 6 banger with the thick real steel body. could fix that rig anywhere, 30 miles back in Alberta moose country on a mud road and 2 ft of snow with a screw driver and a Crescent wrench. God, please make real cars and trucks again that we humans can work on. I got a Crescent wrench that works on both inch and metric, now give my real meaty spark plugs that stick out far enough so I can get my Crescent on them
just stick with your smooth running straight 6 cyl Jags and you have no worries, there are no lefties and righties. loved my old straight 6 hole babbit beater Chev. 50 Chevy coupe and my old 71 Toyota REAL Land Cruiser tank smooth OHV carb'd straight 6 banger with the thick real steel body. could fix that rig anywhere, 30 miles back in Alberta moose country on a mud road and 2 ft of snow with a screw driver and a Crescent wrench. God, please make real cars and trucks again that we humans can work on.
I got a Crescent wrench that works on both inch and metric, now give my real meaty spark plugs that stick out far enough so I can get my Crescent on themyou know the XJ-6 has many GM & domestic parts: GM Harrison A6 a/c compressor, Saginaw pwr. steering pump and rack, window motors, Jeep Grand Wagoneer power door mirrors, Borg Warner 66 transmission, AC DElco Air Pump & diverter, (many more), and parts are a lot cheaper than Ford or GM, no "NLS" parts, none of that. Everything is available, lots of suppliers. The '65 S type has a DG-250 Studebaker tranny and a Ford pwr. steering pump, and a 1950's Packard heater valve, (the only NLS part). (all those parts came with the cars from the factory).
and that inline 6 will push you into your seat like an airplane on takeoff, but it "drinks" a lot of car-beer (gasoline) too.
