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I need your opinions, please. I took my 351W block and heads down to the local machine shop and was talking to a fella there about my probable bearing problem in my 289. He said all I would have to do is drop the oil pan and do the lower half of the bearings, rather than go through the expense of rebuilding the 351W, the trouble of pulling the 289 and dropping in the 351W. Never heard or read about this type of procedure before. Is it possible? If it is, would you consider this to be a sound fix or a temporary solution. Thanks for your help,
I tried that fix a long time ago with an old mustang. IT worked for a while, but I would say in my opinion that it is only a temp fix as the top of the bearing are worn also... Hope this helps...
BJ
I have heard described a procedure that allows complete main bearing (top & bottom) while leaving crank in place. It has to do with taking each cap off one at a time and rotating out the top half of the bearing by sticking a "pin" through the oiling hole on the crank throw, and rotating the crank till the top half comes around. I have a buddy who has done this in the past, and I saw posts a couple of months ago about this. The thing is, is your crank not bent?, is your align bore true? Does the cylinder need to be bored to make good seal? I had a 302 that went bad after 40K on rebuild. It had come from an engine rebuild shop into my dads Ranchero. Later I put it in my 76 F100. The thrust bearing went out. After the machine shop inspected it, they say the crank is bent, the cylinders need to be bored .060 over, and I need an align bore. I bought another truck to drive, so I can have my 390 rebuilt. If I spend big $ on rebuild, I want to have a fresh 390 instead of 302. I say get the procedure for replacing the main bearings, but consider it a band-aid.
IMHO
You didn't say your crank was damaged, but I will assume it is since you said you have a bad bearing. Since this is probably true, I would probably have the crank ground or order a crank kit and purchase new rods for the engine.
I had this same exact dillema with my old 390 after a rod started knocking on top of a mountain pass, named Rainy Pass, while pulling my travel trailer. After getting it home I decided to order a long block and get the truck back on the road. Thinking back, it would have been a lot cheaper to go the other route. Sorry I rambled, Good luck on the job!
In my opinion you could replace the upper and lower bearing and it would still be mickey moused. There is a reason that bearing went bad and I wouldn't condsider putting more bearings in the without having the crank looked over.
I just had the main and rod bearings changed in my truck for 350$ at a local shop. the motor was not pulled, it was simply blocked up a bit to get into the oil pan, and I believe they took spark plugs out to rotate crank, while changing rod bearings, then drop crank just enough to slip out old bearings(they were the stock bearings too), and slide the new ones in. My oil pressure is way past half on the gauge at idle, and 3/4 on the hwy. Im not sure of the 351C,W, or the 302, this 400 is the first motor I ever owned, it may work for you.it took 9 hrs at $45/hr +a set of gaskets and bearings!!!!!
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