I know I've read on here before about replacing the u-joint on my 1995 F150 4x4, but I can't seem to find a link to the actual procedure. I found one about Broncos, and also 1989 F150, but I'm not sure if it is the same. Also I have manual locking hubs. I was going to try to get by this winter, but our first snow revealed that it may not make it for long. I'm actually afraid to use it at all, and my truck stinks in 2wd when it's snowing! Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

The 2 procedures you found will deff. get you by. The only difference might be how many bolts are on the spindle, the type of wheel bearing lock nut, and a few other minor things. But all in all it is the same. Pick up a haynes just for cheap insurance.

 

What part of Ohio are you in. If your close I can help you out.

 

I'm about 30 miles south of Cleveland in Stow. Madison is up there by the lake, right. I appreciate the offer, but I'm not sure when I'll tackle it. Probably after the Christmas & New Years. And I may have to wait for a weekend to make sure I can get it all back together for work!

 

I did the front u-joints today, after I finished with ball joints. Here's how it goes, if it's anything like the Dana 50.

Put front end up on 2 jackstands. Make sure it doesn't move AT ALL.
Remove hub cap, remove hub. Remove the the snap ring and three washers and then remove the small 3/4 ring. Using a wheel socket, remove the big nut in there. I keep the snap ring and washers in order with a zip tie.
Slide off the hub/rotor catching the bearings if they fall out. Remove the nuts holding the spindle on. Remove spindle catching any bearings that fall out. I had to press my spindles off cause they were frozen on. Remove the rotor guard thing behind the spindle.
This is the same for both sides. The difference now is in how the axles slide out.
The driver's side axle will slide right out of the differential. Grab the ujoint and pull, guiding the other end of the axle with your hand.
The passenger side axle is a little different. You must pull off the metal bands holding the rubber boot in the center of the axle. Slide the boot down the axle and now the axle will slide out the same way as the driver's side, except out of a slip joint instead of the differential.
Do this all in reverse to put it back together, packing grease in all bearings etc. Lightly lube the hub when you put it back in.
Go slow and be careful; post any questions and I, and I'm sure others, will chime in as necessary. If you need new ball joints, now would be the perfect time to do that.

 

I'm sure glad I found this.. I'm starting to realize how bad my u joints are the last few days. Looks like I will be replacing whichever u joints that need be, all ball joints, and drivers side wheel bearing. I'm new to this area so I guess we'll see how it goes. I've replaced axle shafts in newer cars but that's a breeze.

Anyone remember what special tools are needed for this procedure?

 

if ur talkin a f350 i can help but im not familiar with the 150

 

Wish I was, that way I wouldn't feel like I was wasting my money here I should really just upgrade now.

 

Here's a good article on how to do the ball joints: Bronco Ball Joint Replacement - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com

That's what you are going to be going through, with a few minor differences. Don't remove the knuckle. After you remove the spindle, the driver's side axle will just slide out. The passenger side will come out after you separate the axle at the slip joint. Cut one of the clamps so the boot will slide apart.

The u-joints themselves are internally retained, not externally like the driveshaft u-joints. They're not that hard to remove.

 

your hardest part ( IMO ) will be getting the spindle off the knuckle. Other then that its cake. I have done more then my fair share over the years. Older solid axles, D 44s D50s Even did a 30? in a scout II years back. If your worried I have learned that a digital camera can be your best friend! Take photos and very often.

 

Everyone is very helpful with their insight and answers. Should be ok to work on in a few weeks with all of the info. I'm going to post my Vin code here tonight to see if I can get some help figuring out what axle I have on my 95. It does't sound like I need to drain the fluid, but I am going to change it now anyways. I changed the rear diff, tranny, and the transfer case to synthetic last year, but held off on the front diff until I fixed the ujoints.

 

Anyone able to decode this VIN for me? 1FTEF14Y5SLC02537 Maybe some help from numberdummy

 

VIN: 1FTEF14Y5SLC02537

World Manufacturer Identifier - 1st, 2nd, 3rd Positions
VIN Code: 1FT
Assembly Country: UNITED STATES
Make: Ford
Body Style: Pickup
Restraint System Type (Passenger Cars) or Brake Type and GVWR Class (Trucks and Vans) - 4th Position
VIN Code: E
Brake System: STANDARD
GVWR Class:
GVWR Range: 6,001 - 10,000 Pounds
Line,Series Body Type - 5th, 6th, 7th Positions
VIN Code: F14
Vehicle Line: F-150
Vehicle Type: Truck
Engine Type - 8th Position
VIN Code: Y
Engine: 4.9 L
Cylinders: 6
Fuel: Gasoline
Engine Manufacturer: FORD
Model Year - 10th Position
VIN Code: S
Model Year: 1995
Assembly Plant - 11th Position
VIN Code: L
Assembly Plant: MICHIGAN TRUCKS, MICHIGAN
Production Sequence Number - 12th - 17th
VIN Code: C02537
Prod Sequence Number C02537
Additional Information
Wheel Axles Wheelbase 250.0

 

Any thoughts on checking for other worn parts? These newer trucks don't have kingpins, just ball joints right? I've heard before that you just jack up the truck and bounce the wheel up & down, in/out and look for play. For me, it's hard to check while moving it.. (guess I can't multitask). I'm afraid I might miss it. When in doubt, just replace it, I always say!

Thanks for the help with the VIN code. Nothing in there about the type of diff. Oh well, I'm sure it's tagged.

 

Use a pry bar to slightly lift the wheel up and down, if it has play your ball joints are worn.

position your hand on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock it from top to bottom, if there's play, replace wheel bearings.


That's all I know but look forward to seeing what others have to say. I'm really not looking forward to this project.