So I dont connect whit to 85 since a 12v is going there. What about to the 86?

 

no, white needs to be alone on a terminal of the relay. The idea being the brain will ground the white wire when it needs to and power will flow from the 85 through the coil and to ground through the brain.

Maybe this will help explain it alittle more.
off


on

 

After about 11 beers two sandwitchs,2 blood knuckles I figured out with the help of you last diagram. What got me caught was I kept thinking the white was going on 85 with the power.. Its going on 86 like you said. SO yes that make sense power going to both and it acting as a switch when a pulse is sent. Now do you recommend me take power fron the ing,batter or somthing else on my truck?

And again thanks!!!!!!!!! a million

 

Now since the lock should work (to dark and drunk) Looks like all i have left isfinding were the light flash output goes, hook the siren up. Then install the engine cut off circuit. Do i need to cut unto the door trigger input or the foot brake input?

 

There should be a power wire you've already run from the battery to the brain box, tie into this.

To make the parking lights flash, I think it's the brown wire in the back of the head light switch. For the door trigger, it's usually recommended that you tap into the dome light circuit. This way any door trips the alarm and is a lot less wiring than trying isolate all of the door triggers. I believe this is a blue wire in the drivers kick panel. I'm not sure what you're looking for on the brake, but the cold side of the switch will provide an input for when the pedal is pressed.

The ignition kill will require cutting the starter wire and putting a relay between the cut. If you need more help let us know. And I'm going to get another B&C myself.

 

Sounds like I still have a lot of work to do... lol I have not run a wire from the battery to the brain. I was told to just connect to the green and purple wire in the igination wires... Still not sure if this is correct. It looks hard running the wire from where I am putting my brain(under driver dash) to the battery on the pass side. I will save the motor kill for last cause i`m sure the questions will fly about that four pin relay.

 

The benefit of adding a new wire complete with a fuse for the brain box is you will have a new independent wire supplying power and if you should have problems with the alarm, to disable it all you have to do is unplug the fuse. It's not that bad of a job to run the wire, There are a few places to pull a wire through the firewall without drilling or you can drill.

Tell me about the pain, I spent 3 days doing my alarm/remote start, I hid the brain box where it takes a while to get to it nicely and I camophlaged the starter kill relay and put the priority unlock relay where someone would look for the start kill. The more time you take hiding and making the system unaccessible the harder will be for someone to steal it. The number one factor in an alarm system is the installation. Take your time, do it right, clean and as painfully as possible. It goes back to what Sun Tzu had said about difficult ground, if it's hard for you it's hard for your enemy.

The starter kill is pretty simple actually. Get to understand how the relay works and I can walk you through the idea. Basically, the idea is the brain box will supply ground to pin 85 and the ignition switch will give you 12v, this way the relay only works when you have both 12v from the switch and a ground from the brain box. The strange bit to it is, you wire it backwards. 30 and 87a are used instead of 30 and 87. This way as long as 85 or 86 is interrupted, the starter wire is connected. It's a slick setup that only draws power when you have both conditions (alarm active and ignition switch on). The down side is cutting the starter wire. You could do it on the ignition wire too, but the starter wire will ensure that the engine runs should anything fail, but it will not start again until things are done correctly.

 

Starting to understand this.. relay stuff... You make sense about the hard it is for me to install the harder it is for someone to take. My goal tomarrow will be to get the powerlocks working and then the alarm.. If for some reason I cant get the alarm to work and might have to wait untill next weeked. The power locks will still work all week correct?

 

If you have the relays clicking now, the door locks will work tomorrow. The siren and start disable will be independent of the lock/unlock.

 

Ok .... Update... Locks/alarm is working. I only have the basic functions of the alarm working do to the fact that I do not know how to get to most of the wires. I am going to buy a book about my truck to see if that will help. I did not run a new line to my battery ( I looked for about an hr for a safe spot to drill or to go through with extisting wire. I found a good spot however I do not know how to take the dash board apart =). I tied in to my igination wire and made sure that everything worked. I did find though the installation that my 12v (cig apdapter and a extra 12v) is not getting power. I think it was like this when i got the truck.


How could I troubleshoot the cig 12v?

Thanks again.

 

This is a tech sheet like those that installers use and a good place to start.

Cig lighters maybe on other circuits, such as OBD2 and cruise control circuits. I'd start by going over the fuses.

 

You da man!!

PARKLIGHTS Brown At light switch harness +
Where would this be at?


Also is there a way to set the horn to beep when I lock or unlock the button? or must this be done doing the actual alarm setup?


Still looking for a way through the firewall or where the other wires come from/

 

Try the back of the headlight switch, it's usually right there and easy enough to work with.

You can do a pair of relays or diode isolate a relay to connect the horn wire to ground when the lock/unlock wire is grounded. I would just use the built in feature in the alarm, much easier to do.

There should be a rubber boot around the steering shaft, you can use a wire coat hanger to push through the boot and with a wire taped to the other end pull it right though. The only down side of using this location is you need to route the wire away from the steering linkage and secure it. There should also be a number of gromets on the driver's side firewall and under the truck.

 

Had to leave for holidays =).. I`m back at it!

For some reason locks stopped work. I`m getting power and ground to the unit but not click sounds when pressing the buttons. The second keyless key that the unit came with didnt work and i`m thinking the batteries are dead in both the clickers now..

I`ll be looking to do the alarm sometime this week once i get the locks to work again

 

I recently bought a 2013 STX Ford. I did not realize the truck didn't have power locks or windows. Long story short the dealer is saying no way it's impossible to install power locks and windows for this truck. I find that hard to believe in today's world for this to be true. Can someone help me out is this possible to do and how.