BASS i could not have said that anybetter about the GP cycle, that is exactly what they do, and depending on the EOT(engine oil temperature) sensor, X imput will tell the computer how long to cycle the plugs, pretty much standard is about a solid minute and on warm days about 30 seconds.

 

Iallwork, yes I did finally get them all fixed. Got pretty good and fast at getting the fuel pump and fuel bowl assembly out. Got good at replacing all of the orings on the fuel bowl as well. Been driving her pretty good for over a week now and the valley is dry as a bone. Finally. Glad to be a member of this site.

Ride, sorry to hear about your misfortune with your truck and home. Hope ya'll revocer quickly.

 

Is there a kit to replace all the O rings and such in the fuel bowl assembly? If so, what is it called?

 

Cope, here is the kit that I used. O-RING KIT

 

You da man!
TANX!

 

Glad that I could finally return the favor, especially as much help as I have gotten from here.

 

I made a video of what mine is doing, the volt meter wobbles at idle and stopped at traffic lights. The interior lights get bright and dim in correlation with the wobble of the volt meter.

I do not remember it doing this before. Is this a problem?

Jump to 1:24 to skip the cycle time for the plugs..The video says 1:17, but YouTube made it a little longer.

YouTube - PSD.wmv

 

Mine doesn't do that, Hopefully some one will chime in that can help out. Good Luck

 

thanks, I know once someone see's the video they will know, or at least could tell me 5 things that it could be.

Batteries replaced this year and alternator replaced this year.

 

Mine does something like that. It only does it while the glow plugs are cycling. Once the cycle is finished, it never does it again until I start the truck again.

 

This is my first post on the forums, and this is my first powerstroke, as well as first diesel truck that I have owned. I actually just bought mine today. It is a 95, with 3:55's and 288,000 miles. I am having the same problem that ncinirator is having. When I start my truck, volts are fine. After a while, the volts bounce and the lights surge and dim just like he describes. The only difference is mine bounces between the left side of the "A" and the right side of the L on NORMAL. I went to autozone and they showed the guage was reading correctly and it was bouncing between something like 14.5 and 15.5 volts. I am going to assume this is the voltage regulator on the alternator, but I really dont know for sure. The batteries and alternator both appear to hvae been recently replaced. I am asking because I really dont want to buy a voltage regulator if something else I might be able to check first could potentially be the problem. Also the range of voltage that I have given, will this harm the vehicles electrical system, i.e. computer, starter, battteries etc? I am going to take it to a shop in the morning and have them look at it, but if its something I can fix id love to because really its just annoying.

As a side note my temperature guage does not read at all, any ideas? I bought some sender thing but have not yet had the chance to install it. As soon as I got home I got on here and started googling.

I can say though I am very impressed with how it runs with the miles that are on it. In case anyone is wondering, it is an automatic, 2x4 if that matters.

 

kinda surprised i never got a response.. anyways, i went and purchased a volt regulator. when i remove the plug from the volt regulator on the alternator the needle stops moving and my voltage stops bouncing. i went ahead and put some electric grease on the terminals and plugged/unplugged in 5 or so times then started the engine before i replaced it. the needle now bounces on just the A from the left side of the A to the right side of the A.. this is the A at the end of normal. the battery light is no longer flickering after i did this either, but the needle still moves slightly. should i worry and replace the regulator and eat 50 bucks or just go with the slight flucuation?

 

actually its bouncing at idle now, but not while driving. the battery light is also flashing at idle. still no ideas?

 

From what you described best guess is it is the connection. Have someone watch the dash meter while you tug and wiggle it around. It is quite common to have this issue because when servicing the engine people lay up there trying to get to other areas of the engine. A new end to the connector plug from a junk yard might correct the issue.

 

put a new voltage regulator on it and now the battery light stays on all the time and the alternator does not charge at all. when i removed teh regulator, it had something attached to it, with springs and magnets on it. maybe i didnt put it back together right but i dont see how one could screw that up? do i have to align the magnets a certain way? could the new regulator be faulty? i have to crack it open again tomrorow morning to be sure but this is starting to **** me off. going to try and find some pictures tonight of what the magnetic thing is thats attached to it to see if i screwed it up somehow.. but answer me this, if i bought the new regulator, shouldnt it have came with that magnetic thing attached to it?