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Hello, I have an 05 250 and every time after start up my brake peddel goes to the floor. Any body have any ideas? Dealership mentioned hydro booster.Does not sound good.However, dealership put ARPs in for me not to long ago via cab off chassis.Wonder if there is any relation involved in this process? Also drive truck in Michigan very cold latley and every damn winter I have gelling issue
I ride on 8in lift with 37s could the increase in ht have effect on gelling fuel lines?Seems to be gelling between hfcm and tank.Never wif warning,but 1 time came on due to gunk build up on sensor. I disassembled and cleaned.
Any ideas greatly appreciated. Truck will have 100,000 very soon. kind of like to get it do dealer one last time any way. Truck has excessive blue smoke on start up.
Hello, I have an 05 250 and every time after start up my brake peddel goes to the floor. Any body have any ideas? Dealership mentioned hydro booster.Does not sound good.However, dealership put ARPs in for me not to long ago via cab off chassis.Wonder if there is any relation involved in this process? Also drive truck in Michigan very cold latley and every damn winter I have gelling issue
I ride on 8in lift with 37s could the increase in ht have effect on gelling fuel lines?Seems to be gelling between hfcm and tank.Never wif warning,but 1 time came on due to gunk build up on sensor. I disassembled and cleaned.
Any ideas greatly appreciated. Truck will have 100,000 very soon. kind of like to get it do dealer one last time any way. Truck has excessive blue smoke on start up.
Flush your brake fluid...there may be air pocket somewhere in the system.
If it's an 05 and the brakes have never been flushed you will get about a qt. of rust, mud and water out of them. I made an assumption that proper maint. had been performed to the brake system. Flushes every other year min. Good suggestion Moyock.
Thanks for all the info fellas. I will flush the system 1st. Any procedure to follow?
Superduty will self bleed if you have the time and are alone. Start at farthest wheel, right rear, then left rear, then right front and finally left front. Put a piece of clear tubing on drain zerk and place other end in clear container with about 1/2 inch of fluid in it to prevent air from sucking back. Open zerk and remove cap on master cylinder. You will have to top off the master about every 5 min. Do not let it get lower than 1/2. About where the molding line is. Let each wheel drain till clear fluid comes out. Close zerk and move on to next wheel. I went thru 4 qts. before I was happy.
You could also pick up some Speed Bleeder valves at your local parts store (advance auto, autozone, pepbiys, etc...) They have a small check ball fitting that allows flow in one direction so air doesn't vacuum back into the system when you lift the brake pedal. What 69cj said is crucial....keep filling as you go...don't let the fluid get lower than the ABS components within the master cylinder, so don't let the level fall below the molding line. The speed bleeder make doing the job alone much easier. Just add the clear tubing like 69cj said and use a clear recepticle...you will be amazed at the crap in your system.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the type of brake fluid - DOT3 or DOT4? I have had conflicting recommendations from my dealer, parts stores, and general shop talk with the guys.