Farm-Fresh '51 ('49 '53 '54 mutant) - What to know before I buy?
#1
Farm-Fresh '51 ('49 '53 '54 mutant) - What to know before I buy?
Hi everyone, from the Chevy side of town.
I'm a PhD student and will be in the same place for a few years, so I want to pick up my dream '49 F1 to restore.
I'm not a newbie when it comes to restoration - I've done a '55 Chevy myself, and helped friends with about half a dozen other cars. I am a total novice when it comes to the early Ford trucks, however. I've done some preliminary searches on common problems, but I'd love to know what, exactly, I should put on my check-out checklist when I drive two hours to see an F1 tomorrow.
I'm looking at a "barn-restored" car -- fixed or restored using whatever was laying around. I'm told the truck is a '51 with an original flathead V8 and a 4-speed swapped from a F5 or F6 (the seller says no synchros though I thought some F5's had them - otherwise strange reason for a swap?). The fenders and grille are from a '49 and the bed is from a '54, while the steering wheel is from a ‘53. I'm told it was running and driving well, but the seller doesn't know the location of a kill switch the previous owner installed (the car was willed to him). Been converted to 12V, except the starter, and has electronic ignition. Don’t know much else – apparently the interior is missing “liners” - not sure if that means door panels or a headliner, but I can't tell from the pics.
What can you guys tell me about the truck from these pictures? In particular, I don’t know if I love the cab roof lights – I assume these weren’t stock, and I’d have to do some metal work to remove them. I’d also like to know the differences between the ’54 and ’49 bed (I know about the fenders – would that be an easy swap? I much prefer the ’49 look, and I can slap wood paneling in anything). Aside from that, any common trouble areas to look for that a Chevy car guy might miss? I’m told it was gone through in ’75 and completely redone, but again, using found parts. I don’t think it has the widow-maker wheels but the owner said it came with an extra set of wheels and gauges and some other parts.
I’d appreciate any guidance before I get in too deep here. Am I right in thinking around $3K, assuming it’s titled? Images can be seen here:
1951 F1 - Imgur
Thanks, I appreciate the guidance! Can’t wait to join the club!
I'm a PhD student and will be in the same place for a few years, so I want to pick up my dream '49 F1 to restore.
I'm not a newbie when it comes to restoration - I've done a '55 Chevy myself, and helped friends with about half a dozen other cars. I am a total novice when it comes to the early Ford trucks, however. I've done some preliminary searches on common problems, but I'd love to know what, exactly, I should put on my check-out checklist when I drive two hours to see an F1 tomorrow.
I'm looking at a "barn-restored" car -- fixed or restored using whatever was laying around. I'm told the truck is a '51 with an original flathead V8 and a 4-speed swapped from a F5 or F6 (the seller says no synchros though I thought some F5's had them - otherwise strange reason for a swap?). The fenders and grille are from a '49 and the bed is from a '54, while the steering wheel is from a ‘53. I'm told it was running and driving well, but the seller doesn't know the location of a kill switch the previous owner installed (the car was willed to him). Been converted to 12V, except the starter, and has electronic ignition. Don’t know much else – apparently the interior is missing “liners” - not sure if that means door panels or a headliner, but I can't tell from the pics.
What can you guys tell me about the truck from these pictures? In particular, I don’t know if I love the cab roof lights – I assume these weren’t stock, and I’d have to do some metal work to remove them. I’d also like to know the differences between the ’54 and ’49 bed (I know about the fenders – would that be an easy swap? I much prefer the ’49 look, and I can slap wood paneling in anything). Aside from that, any common trouble areas to look for that a Chevy car guy might miss? I’m told it was gone through in ’75 and completely redone, but again, using found parts. I don’t think it has the widow-maker wheels but the owner said it came with an extra set of wheels and gauges and some other parts.
I’d appreciate any guidance before I get in too deep here. Am I right in thinking around $3K, assuming it’s titled? Images can be seen here:
1951 F1 - Imgur
Thanks, I appreciate the guidance! Can’t wait to join the club!
#2
LOL. We discussed this truck a few days ago after another member found it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-this-ad.html
Welcome to the club, but if you want my honest opinion--postpone your official "enrollment" until another opportunity comes along.
Edit: With regards to your question about the fender swap, that truck has big truck (F-2 thru F-6) front fenders on it. Steel F-1 fenders are basically impossible to find, and, if you find one, it will cost you probably over a thousand bucks. You can buy fiberglass fenders, but those aren't cheap either, and don't forget the truck has the wrong bed to begin with. When you see a 51-52 with a 48-50 front sheet metal clip on it (or vice versa), literally every single piece of sheet metal from the firewall forward (including the inner fenders) has to be changed out if you're trying to get a uniform truck. Bottom line--that truck is a very big hybrid. It looks pretty solid, but understand it would take a lot of money, time, and probably a lot of traveling to look for parts if you want to make it a true 1951 truck.
Welcome to the club, but if you want my honest opinion--postpone your official "enrollment" until another opportunity comes along.
Edit: With regards to your question about the fender swap, that truck has big truck (F-2 thru F-6) front fenders on it. Steel F-1 fenders are basically impossible to find, and, if you find one, it will cost you probably over a thousand bucks. You can buy fiberglass fenders, but those aren't cheap either, and don't forget the truck has the wrong bed to begin with. When you see a 51-52 with a 48-50 front sheet metal clip on it (or vice versa), literally every single piece of sheet metal from the firewall forward (including the inner fenders) has to be changed out if you're trying to get a uniform truck. Bottom line--that truck is a very big hybrid. It looks pretty solid, but understand it would take a lot of money, time, and probably a lot of traveling to look for parts if you want to make it a true 1951 truck.
#3
Haha, thanks Doc! Small world, but that's just like the Chevy community as well. I'm not totally put off if it's solid and runs and drives. I spoke with the owner and he's very flexible on price. Since I'm considering a mild resto-mod it's not a bad canvas to start from (unless others really disagree).
#4
Well, based on all the 'handy work', the First thing I would do if I were you is to check the serial#'s on the frame and data plates to make sure they ALL match the title. The 4 speed non syncho was standard on F3-F6 and an available option in F1-F-3 of that era, the syncro-silent came with the 254 6 cylinder in the F6, but was a rare option in other F4-F6 models.
You said the seller is flexible on the price, that's good because with all the 'tossed salad' parts there, I think it is WAY overpriced. JMHO
You said the seller is flexible on the price, that's good because with all the 'tossed salad' parts there, I think it is WAY overpriced. JMHO
#5
#6
Hello and welcome to the forum! I think you came to the right place for F1 information. Harleymsn gave you some good advice on the VIN. If you get this you could hunt down 51/52 front clip, but the VIN goes with the frame.
I wouldn't be a good adviser on this one because I'd be enamored with the flathead!!
I can say that it just doesn't look right with the later model bed. Original style beds are available, but it will run you around $2k delivered for all new parts including the bed wood, all cross members, and a scripted Ford tailgate (about $500 of that is freight). That won't include the back fenders.
Keep us posted on your search for the perfect truck....maybe you'll restore this one to its former glory!
Dan
I wouldn't be a good adviser on this one because I'd be enamored with the flathead!!
I can say that it just doesn't look right with the later model bed. Original style beds are available, but it will run you around $2k delivered for all new parts including the bed wood, all cross members, and a scripted Ford tailgate (about $500 of that is freight). That won't include the back fenders.
Keep us posted on your search for the perfect truck....maybe you'll restore this one to its former glory!
Dan
#7
j,
Just MHO but it "could" be a great truck; depending on what you really want to do and how you want to go about doing it. But even if it's zero rust and the cab corners are in great shape and the flathead purrs like a kitten you're still only buying a pile of parts. It may be a running/driving pile of parts, but it's a Frankentruck. It's clearly got bits and pieces from several other trucks and there's no knowing how well it was cobbled together. That's not saying anything devious has been done. I've known a lot of farmers over the years and if a machine runs well but gets damaged they'll swap over whatever's handy to keep it in service.
That said, if you really want to swap the bed, front and rear fenders, and possibly other components you're looking at selling the cheaper stuff to purchase the more expensive stuff. In the end it just depends on your budget and what you want to do.
If you decide to go look at it trace the wiring for the kill switch or ask if the guy will let you run a jumper to see if the engine turns/fires. Otherwise you're really just buying a pile of parts (most of which it sounds like you don't really like/want). Check the VIN on the passenger frame rail just in front of the shock mount against the VIN on the firewall tag and the VIN on the glove box door all against the title to really give you an idea just how cobbled together this truck is. Check the cab corners for rust out, check the fender seams/running board joints for rust out.
Price is really a hard thing to comment on. It's worth whatever you're willing to put into it. Rust free those parts and pieces might be worth a couple grand. A running motor would obviously be worth more, but since you're probably going to want to tear it down and rebuild it it's only worth whatever stock you put in the fact that it "did" run. And as my recent overhaul thread testifies, just because it ran before you tore it down doesn't mean the rebuild won't be expensive.
Peace,
Jim
Just MHO but it "could" be a great truck; depending on what you really want to do and how you want to go about doing it. But even if it's zero rust and the cab corners are in great shape and the flathead purrs like a kitten you're still only buying a pile of parts. It may be a running/driving pile of parts, but it's a Frankentruck. It's clearly got bits and pieces from several other trucks and there's no knowing how well it was cobbled together. That's not saying anything devious has been done. I've known a lot of farmers over the years and if a machine runs well but gets damaged they'll swap over whatever's handy to keep it in service.
That said, if you really want to swap the bed, front and rear fenders, and possibly other components you're looking at selling the cheaper stuff to purchase the more expensive stuff. In the end it just depends on your budget and what you want to do.
If you decide to go look at it trace the wiring for the kill switch or ask if the guy will let you run a jumper to see if the engine turns/fires. Otherwise you're really just buying a pile of parts (most of which it sounds like you don't really like/want). Check the VIN on the passenger frame rail just in front of the shock mount against the VIN on the firewall tag and the VIN on the glove box door all against the title to really give you an idea just how cobbled together this truck is. Check the cab corners for rust out, check the fender seams/running board joints for rust out.
Price is really a hard thing to comment on. It's worth whatever you're willing to put into it. Rust free those parts and pieces might be worth a couple grand. A running motor would obviously be worth more, but since you're probably going to want to tear it down and rebuild it it's only worth whatever stock you put in the fact that it "did" run. And as my recent overhaul thread testifies, just because it ran before you tore it down doesn't mean the rebuild won't be expensive.
Peace,
Jim
Last edited by Blue50F-1; 05-22-2013 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Forgot to comment on price.
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#9
Hey J,
Hmmm... I'll take a slightly different tack. We all drive "Franken trucks" for the most part. Our truck is a '50 but it has a 2001 Explorer rear end, an aftermarket Mustang II front suspension, & 4 fiberglass fenders. If you can get a running truck for $3K - nothing wrong with that.
If you want to get it to look more like a '48-50 you will have to make some changes:
o I'd replace the front F6 fenders with the huge wheel opening - that's (2)
front F1 fiberglass fenders for $265 ea plus freight.
o Personally I think the rear bed you have looks fine. The late '50 & up beds don't look too different. The '48-'50 beds have a different look & construction & they are around $2K with a wood bed included. Another $265 ea for rear fenders.
If that engine in the truck is running - for another $0.5K in front fenders it will look much better. If you want to splurge & get a new '48-'50 bed - you will have a running truck with everything looking good for under $6K -
that's not too bad.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Hmmm... I'll take a slightly different tack. We all drive "Franken trucks" for the most part. Our truck is a '50 but it has a 2001 Explorer rear end, an aftermarket Mustang II front suspension, & 4 fiberglass fenders. If you can get a running truck for $3K - nothing wrong with that.
If you want to get it to look more like a '48-50 you will have to make some changes:
o I'd replace the front F6 fenders with the huge wheel opening - that's (2)
front F1 fiberglass fenders for $265 ea plus freight.
o Personally I think the rear bed you have looks fine. The late '50 & up beds don't look too different. The '48-'50 beds have a different look & construction & they are around $2K with a wood bed included. Another $265 ea for rear fenders.
If that engine in the truck is running - for another $0.5K in front fenders it will look much better. If you want to splurge & get a new '48-'50 bed - you will have a running truck with everything looking good for under $6K -
that's not too bad.
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Last edited by ben73058; 05-22-2013 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Spelling
#10
#11
Thanks! I spoke with the seller again and it sounds like I wouldn't get near the $1500 thanks to a load of spare parts (flathead block + other) that must go with. For the problems that I didn't notice - and now know to look out for -- I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. If I could have finessed $1500 I would run it into the ground in the most loving way possible and not felt bad about using it like a truck.
Here's to hoping something will come around in a similar price range in the New England area this summer! Very much looking forward to becoming a contributing member here, once I pick up my F1.
Here's to hoping something will come around in a similar price range in the New England area this summer! Very much looking forward to becoming a contributing member here, once I pick up my F1.
#12
Sounds like you have what it takes to plan, join, ask questions and consider options before tackling a project. Many of us here probably didn't do it that way (myself included) so you should be ahead of the curve once a truck finds you. I frequently check for '48-'52 parts in the usual online places in northern New England and find that every couple of weeks another project truck gets listed. Keep looking, and no doubt you'll have one by mid-summer.
This forum has absolutely the best archives of advice, part numbers, tech tips, and moral support from members for the old Ford trucks. There is nothing that can't be figured out or located by these guys. I still learn something new and helpful every day. Keep us posted on what you see available and if you have an e-mail address send it to me and I'll relay any hot leads for recently listed F1's that are in this area. Good luck on your mission.
Tom
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