?? on Rebuilt 460
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Southern California
?? on Rebuilt 460
Just installed a rebuilt 460 in my 1987 F-350, in the morning the truck starts fine and runs great. Runs with the temp right in the middle of gauge. Once I have stopped and shut the truck down and try to start again the starter barely turns it over. If I wait till the truck cools down, over 2 hours the truck starts fine again. Is this due to the motor being new? Ive only put probably 20 miles on it at this point and it's not even broke in. Also I have noticed the temp gauge needle is further to the right when the key is in the off position. When its cooled down it's back to the left position. My oil gauge is pegged to the right when the key is off but when it's running it's in the middle and moves a bit either way. I will be talking to the Machine Shop that built the engine to see what they have to say about the start problem later today.
thanks for any advice,
Rich
thanks for any advice,
Rich
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 502
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From: atl
Just installed a rebuilt 460 in my 1987 F-350, in the morning the truck starts fine and runs great. Runs with the temp right in the middle of gauge. Once I have stopped and shut the truck down and try to start again the starter barely turns it over. If I wait till the truck cools down, over 2 hours the truck starts fine again. Is this due to the motor being new? Ive only put probably 20 miles on it at this point and it's not even broke in. Also I have noticed the temp gauge needle is further to the right when the key is in the off position. When its cooled down it's back to the left position. My oil gauge is pegged to the right when the key is off but when it's running it's in the middle and moves a bit either way. I will be talking to the Machine Shop that built the engine to see what they have to say about the start problem later today.
thanks for any advice,
Rich
thanks for any advice,
Rich
Now for the fun part about the gauges. The oil pressure gauge is a glorified idiot light, nothing more. If there is 7 psi or more IIRC, the needle will move to the normal range. What this means is that you cannot use the factory gauge to read oil pressure correctly. There have been posts in the past about what parts and pieces can be used to change the gauge to a "real" gauge. I remember seeing them years ago....I believe the temp gauge problem could be due to a ground issue with the sender - if there is teflon tape on it sometimes that can prevent a good ground for the sensor, or maybe it is bad....but personally I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it. If you are concerned, you may want to put some mechanical gauges on it to see what it is really doing.
Good luck!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 118
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From: Murray KY
Same here with our 429 showing 144K miles.
I am starting to think it is a connection problem since it does not alway start slow. Timing can do that I think too.
It can be a hot starter issue too perhaps.
We have a new battery in our case. It always starts but is slow turning.
Interested to hear what you find.
It can be a hot starter issue too perhaps.
We have a new battery in our case. It always starts but is slow turning.
Interested to hear what you find.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I swapped my engine almost 2 years ago.
460 Re-Power - a set on Flickr
Does your 350 have a carburetor?
Re: your slow cranking, If your grounds test good. BTW, The grounding boss is at the bottom front passenger side of the block.
The DuraSpark II box has an ignition retard built in. Check the Red & White plug connecting to the module. The white wire should have voltage while cranking over.
This retards the timing and reduces load on the starter.
The '87 model still has an actual oil pressure sender at the center rear of the intake manifold.
The -check engine- idiot light will come on if oil pressure drops below 7 or so psi but checking my stock gauge against a mechanical gauge shows full scale at almost 80 psi and hot idle just below 30.
You will notice your idle speed increase over the next few weeks as the engine loosens up.
460 Re-Power - a set on Flickr
Does your 350 have a carburetor?
Re: your slow cranking, If your grounds test good. BTW, The grounding boss is at the bottom front passenger side of the block.
The DuraSpark II box has an ignition retard built in. Check the Red & White plug connecting to the module. The white wire should have voltage while cranking over.
This retards the timing and reduces load on the starter.
The '87 model still has an actual oil pressure sender at the center rear of the intake manifold.
The -check engine- idiot light will come on if oil pressure drops below 7 or so psi but checking my stock gauge against a mechanical gauge shows full scale at almost 80 psi and hot idle just below 30.
You will notice your idle speed increase over the next few weeks as the engine loosens up.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 130
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From: Southern California
Battery voltage while running is 13.5 to 14 so it's charging. Voltage not running 12. Havent checked voltage at starter, will when I have someone to turn the motor over.
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Senior User
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From: Southern California
For the starter issue first - do you have a ground cable from the engine to the frame and the battery to the frame? If not, that would be the first thing to fix. Next check the cable connection for the starter at both the starter and solenoid ends for corrosion - if there are any signs, either clean it up if possible or ditch it and get a new one. If none of that works, have the battery tested and the starter tested, even if new.
Now for the fun part about the gauges. The oil pressure gauge is a glorified idiot light, nothing more. If there is 7 psi or more IIRC, the needle will move to the normal range. What this means is that you cannot use the factory gauge to read oil pressure correctly. There have been posts in the past about what parts and pieces can be used to change the gauge to a "real" gauge. I remember seeing them years ago....I believe the temp gauge problem could be due to a ground issue with the sender - if there is teflon tape on it sometimes that can prevent a good ground for the sensor, or maybe it is bad....but personally I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it. If you are concerned, you may want to put some mechanical gauges on it to see what it is really doing.
Good luck!
Now for the fun part about the gauges. The oil pressure gauge is a glorified idiot light, nothing more. If there is 7 psi or more IIRC, the needle will move to the normal range. What this means is that you cannot use the factory gauge to read oil pressure correctly. There have been posts in the past about what parts and pieces can be used to change the gauge to a "real" gauge. I remember seeing them years ago....I believe the temp gauge problem could be due to a ground issue with the sender - if there is teflon tape on it sometimes that can prevent a good ground for the sensor, or maybe it is bad....but personally I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it. If you are concerned, you may want to put some mechanical gauges on it to see what it is really doing.
Good luck!
Went to the maching shop that built the engine and they say to retard the timing a bit and that should help. Once motor is broke in move the timing where you think it's best.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Murray KY
Charge your battery so it is 12.6+ (fully charged) and see if that makes a difference before going farther.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Southern California
It's a needle meter, not digital so it's hard to get a perfect reading. I will check it again with a digital or analog one.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
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From: Fort Worth
I'd start there. Also, if you use an ohmmeter for anything, pull the battery cables first.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
I swapped my engine almost 2 years ago.
460 Re-Power - a set on Flickr
Does your 350 have a carburetor?
Re: your slow cranking, If your grounds test good. BTW, The grounding boss is at the bottom front passenger side of the block.
The DuraSpark II box has an ignition retard built in. Check the Red & White plug connecting to the module. The white wire should have voltage while cranking over.
This retards the timing and reduces load on the starter.
The '87 model still has an actual oil pressure sender at the center rear of the intake manifold.
The -check engine- idiot light will come on if oil pressure drops below 7 or so psi but checking my stock gauge against a mechanical gauge shows full scale at almost 80 psi and hot idle just below 30.
You will notice your idle speed increase over the next few weeks as the engine loosens up.
460 Re-Power - a set on Flickr
Does your 350 have a carburetor?
Re: your slow cranking, If your grounds test good. BTW, The grounding boss is at the bottom front passenger side of the block.
The DuraSpark II box has an ignition retard built in. Check the Red & White plug connecting to the module. The white wire should have voltage while cranking over.
This retards the timing and reduces load on the starter.
The '87 model still has an actual oil pressure sender at the center rear of the intake manifold.
The -check engine- idiot light will come on if oil pressure drops below 7 or so psi but checking my stock gauge against a mechanical gauge shows full scale at almost 80 psi and hot idle just below 30.
You will notice your idle speed increase over the next few weeks as the engine loosens up.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
'thanks guys
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 502
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From: atl
Definitely need to address this - don't trust the engine mounts to do the grounding. Definitely add a ground strap from the engine to the frame.