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Bearings are obviously better than bushings, but I think you're also worried about the bearing fitting into the end of the older crank. Here's what I would do. Get the clutch kit for the ZF which will come with a bearing. See if it fits, and if it doesn't, try to source a pilot bearing separately that will fit. If you can't find one, then I guess the last resort would be to use a bushing.
yes, that was precisely my concern
I bought the clutch kit and a new flywheel last week, but after making sure the pressure plate and disc fit my flywheel (and that the throwout bearing was there too) I stuck it back in the box due to time constraints... didn't even think to check for a pilot bearing. At least the website pic shows it does come with it
will check when I get home Thurs. night.
And if you are stuck with using a bushing, don't sit with your foot on the clutch and the tranny in gear for long periods of time, if it even bothers you.
I would, however, wonder how much slap there is in the input shaft of a ZF and if the clearance of the bushing versus the bearing allows the input shaft to move around "too" much and be detrimental to the ZF? (just thinking out loud)
And if you are stuck with using a bushing, don't sit with your foot on the clutch and the tranny in gear for long periods of time, if it even bothers you.
I would, however, wonder how much slap there is in the input shaft of a ZF and if the clearance of the bushing versus the bearing allows the input shaft to move around "too" much and be detrimental to the ZF? (just thinking out loud)
One thing to watch for is if you bolt it all up and you still have a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the bell housing and the block. If you do you will have to modify/cut the end off the input shaft. Sounds strange I know but I ran into that a while back doing a lowrider Mazda truck for my son. We used an older 302 and a 5 spd out of an early 90's stang and the crank wasn't bored deep enough for the whole input shaft. We thought the dowl pins weren't lined up at first and struggled for a bit until I realized the pins weren't even contacting the housing yet. We ended up removing the clutch, flywheel and all thinking we had gotten the wrong parts and with all that removed it still wouldn't bolt up so we knew then it was the shaft. We cut about 1/8 at a time until we had a good fit and it all worked great. Just difference between old and new I guess but the pilot bearing fit well from the kit so you should be good there.
thanks for the tip... this is also a problem on some Mopar cranks originally equipped with automatics - no hole, not deep enough hole, not finish-reamed, etc.
Fortunately it all went together easily (I used the bearing that came with the '92 kit and it fit perfectly in the end of the crank) and apparently the hole is deep enough
I had a problem with a 3.7 SOHC V6 that came out of an automatic truck that I was swapping into one of our 5 speed Rams. Chrysler put a goofy spacer ring in the crank that served no purpose. I wasn't able to remove it with a pilot bearing puller either. I ended up using a dremel and cutting the ring enough to where I could finally pry it out of there.
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