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Well gents.... I have flushed the engine three times and the final time the there wasn't much crud dumping out, so I feel the job is complete. I have two cases of oil in the garage and plan to change it on a regular basis well below the recommended 3000-5000 miles. I feel that I have gone to the extreme with this stuff, so we shall see if the engine (on it's last leg already) dies a quicker death or not. I am putting the 351W together beginning tonight, if work would stop calling and will keep my fingers crossed until it is complete. Jman.... sound advice on buying a cruddy engine. I will definitely take that into consideration and pull plugs and valve covers before throwing the money down on anothe one. Thanks for your help folks,
I bet you just wanted to put a fresh engine together but needed an excuse for the wife or girl friend- "Well honey, the engines shot so I'll have to rebuild it after all ." Say, maybe I should try that!
Don't forget the new 4 barrel manifold, racing cam and 4 ballel carb and headers and all that stuff nessesary for a good "rebuild".
There you go!!! Please don't tell the Mrs., she is still rather new to what is actually needed to get it running and toys that make it go better!! Had a good laugh, but I must say your are not too far from the truth. Thanks,
Gunk is primarily a kerosene product that really is an old world product as it was made because we didn't have detergent oils way back. If you are going to use it and then drop the oil pan, why bother with it? The sludge primarily builds up in the bottom of the pan and the lifter area but Gunk can attack those false seals inside the engine that you really need. I have torn apart a number of 60s engines and sometimes there is a coating in the pan or on the head --- big deal. If you insist, manually clean up the head and pan but leave the rest alone. Use your detergent oil, replace the filter (I remember when we used to change it every other oil change) with each oil change. And don't try to clean something that doesn't need to be 'clean'.
I agree with the previous post that suggests a series of frequent oil changes.
"I think the best way to clean an engine is to do extra oil changes about 3 in a row at about 500-1000 miles apart.I have had luck with Rislone for sticky lifters though."
I too have found this to clean out most engines pretty well.
I recomend using Mobile oil for this as it is cheap and has lots of detergents in it. After this, put in what ever you like and use a motorcraft filter.
In my oppinion, using Gunk Motor Flush is playing with fire. I have seen it work sometimes, but it is risky and I would never use it myself. I have friends who claim it might have damaged their engines. I feel changing the oil like mentioned is the safest and easiest way to clean out a dirty engine. It always worked well for me
The first time I used Gunk it looked and smelled like kerosene, I was impressed with the results though. I decided I wasn't going to pay for an overpriced quart of kerosene again. Now, whenever it's oil change time I pull up to the fuel pump and put 25 cents worth of diesel in the crankcase and drive home and change the oil. I've been using this little trick for 15 years and have never had a problem or any adverse reactions out of any of my engines.
I've had an older guy tell me to add a quart of trans fluid and run the engine for 15 mins before an oil change. This this sound resonable or what.
I did try it a few times in a old che&& calivier 4 banger. The engine throw a rod a few months later, but I doubt it was because of the trans fluid (probably the low oil pressure for months and the 200,000 miles).
This only makes sense if you are living in the fifties and using non-detergent straight weight oil in your pre-war pickup. It makes as much sense today as cutting your crankcase oil for the winter as they used to do; but not today. My Dad who now is 82 has all sorts of stories of what they used to do to their vehicles down on the farm in Minnesota. They make wonder how they ever got to work.
I bought an 83 F-150 in 85 with 35,000 miles on a 302 2bbl.It was driven by a lady school teacher.the truck looked awesomely clean so I bought it never thinking about the oil assuming it had been taken care of.When i DID think about it.it looked nasty,oil baked on the stick.I used the 5 minute flush at every change for 5 or 6 changes and drove it for another 100,00 miles before I rebuilt it because of slack in the timing chain..So i guess i would call this a success story.
49 F-1 (soon to be 460 powered streetrod)
50 F-1
83 F-150
94 Explorer
95 Mustang
If you listen on a quiet night..you can hear a Chevy rust...F-1s FOREVER
Seanster,that ole timing chain swap led to a nice 272/282 edelbrock cam and intake,4bbl 650 Holley,TRW 10:1 30 over forged pistons,melling HV oil pump,HiPo 289 heads and a set of headers and duals..."DARN HONEY!..cost a little more than I thought it would!"..oh and yes..a true double roller timing set!..LOL this was put in my 83 F150 XLS stepside (pic to be in gallery next update)
49 F-1 (soon to be 460 powered streetrod)
50 F-1
83 F-150
94 Explorer
95 Mustang
If you listen on a quiet night..you can hear a Chevy rust...F-1s FOREVER