Good Grief. Had to test the 4x4 for the first time after the snow we got overnight and it broke! Guess that's what tests are for lol. Anyhow can anybody help identifying this axle and the broken part for me please? Dana 44 or 50 IFS?


The Axle


The Damage


Front Passenger side closeup


From behind the wheel

Looks like a failed U-joint or what would twist it like that? Any input on what happened would be much appreciated since I'm a novice when it comes to drive train stuff. Looks like I'm going to need both shafts and any special tools for this job? Don't want to start and discover I'm missing something. Any good pointers?

 

U-joints been dry for a long time. Looking at the wear & direction of the damage I'd say thats your cause. If it's a 50 (that's what I think) here's a pair complete in CO. Ford F250 (1996) Axles - DANA 50 TTB/IFS:eBay Motors (item 290378517488 end time Dec-16-09 21:30:00 PST)
Atleast you found it on a "test" and not when you really needed the 4 wheel. By looking at the background it doesn't look like it's even worth locking the hubs yet.

 

Thats what spinning the wheels and hitting good traction will do. Must have been celebrating that Griz win!

Looks like you need an axle shaft.

 

Lucky there's a truck yard behind my place with lots of room to mess around in. Can't say I'm happy that a flat piece of snow covered pavement has been this trucks proving ground

I think it went before the spin lol

Go Griz! We've played a great season undefeated 14-0 and going to the championship. Looks like I'll be riding Chattanooga choo-choo given my current predicament hahaha

There's been many discussions on here about axles which I've missed so wondering what will swap if I was able to find an entire used front axle? There's about 5 fords sitting in a yard about half a block away so I could probably literally roll one home for the price of a replacement axle shaft alone. What other years and models will fit my 85?

 

80-96 f250

 

How big are the lockout hubs?

That looks like a 44, and your truck is a regular cab.
So unless it was special ordered it would have a 44.

Personally I have never seen anything like that.



Notice my U joint was new.

Big Bronco, F 150 and F 250 with a 44 are all possible donors.

 

Found some really good reading on the make ups here Early Ford F-Series Diesels '83-87 Blue Oval Diesels

"Up front, the F-250HD and pre-’85 F-350s used the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) setups. While called an IFS, it was really a semi-independent suspension. TTB came in coil or leaf spring versions, but the F-250s and F-350s used the leaf spring type. The F-250s had reverse cut Dana 44 IFS until the 1987 model year, when they began using the Dana 50IFS. Until about February of ’85, the F-350 used a Dana 50 IFS, after which it was upgraded to a Dana 60 solid axle. The Dana 50 IFS was available as an option in pre-’87 F-250 HDs (4,600 pound HD front axle option) and was routinely fitted to SuperCab F-250 HDs. By 1987, the Dana 50IFS had replaced the Dana 44IFS in F-250HDs. A front limited slip shows up in Ford data books through at least 1985."

I'd guestimate the hubs at about 4'' but the reading above would make it a 44. A donor 44 would be nice to have around for the parts so I'll be checking the guy's place up the street tomorrow and keeping my fingers crossed for something that will work.

Hate to say it but that's all she's getting for the holidays this year lols. Thanks for the help I'll post back with anymore questions if I think of any.

 

Measure the lockout hub diameter.

3.25 or 3.75 inches sticks in my mind for a 44.
The 50 and 60 share the same lockout and it is over 4" in diamter.

If I could see a picture I could tell.

Your avitar picture is a little to small.

 

If all his are 50's and one is the right ratio it might be time to upgrade.

 

That would bolt up wouldn't it since it was an option and it would have to match the back gears correct? 3.55 is what my vin checks out to

 

I never personally but I understand it is a bolt in swap, gear ratios must match.
I think if your rear is 3.55 the front will be 3.54 anyway it will be .01 difference.

 

A Dana 50 is a bolt in sap for the 44. I have an 86 with a 460 gasser that I did this to. 2 bolts for the pivit points, the spring ubolts, and the tierod end that goes to the steering box. If it is the same gear ratio you are good to go.

 

I can go either way at this point and replace the broken axle assembly or...there is a 50 at the yard that looks in good shape. It's on the truck I been pulling parts from and they all seem to be in better shape then what I got now.

My thoughts about this are, what are the advantages of upgrading to a 50? The only difference is bigger axles right? My next one is I'll be doing this whole project in the frigid cold and snow. Either way if the 44 stays all the u joints have to be replaced and I don't know if the one closest to the pumpkin can be done in place and judging by the shape that the rest are in I doubt it. So both hub assemblies would have to come off and both axles out.

The u joints on the 50 will be replaced but that I can do with it already out of the truck and it would make things much easier. How much do these weigh is my next question. Easy enough to wrangle one out and the replacement in as a whole? I'm really leaning toward doing the swap and the guy will bring it to my truck on a forklift. What would the board suggest?

 

I'd get the complete one from the yard and at your liesure in a garage possibly replace all that's needed. Atleast this way your truck is still together and usable with the hubs unlocked and in 2 wheel incase you run into another issue.

 

Whichever way you go, replace the u-joints with greaseable types... and grease them! Maintenance failures are the #1 failure when it comes to u-joints (according to Spicer anyway).

To swap or not to swap? Based on the torque ratings, the D50 TTB is stronger, duh, rated at 5000 lbs-ft max (short duration) and 1200 lbs-ft continuous. The Dana 44 TTB is rated for 3460 lbs-ft max (short duration) and 1100 lbs-ft continuous (rating according to the Spicer axle specifications books, 1982, 1985 and 2000). Much of the extra strength is in the u-joints (which are larger in the D50) and the shafts. The extra half inch of ring gear diameter (8.5 vs 9.0) doesn't equal more strength som much as more durability under a heavy load. The inner shaft splines are the same (30 splines) on both axles but the minimum axle diameter (necked section on shaft... a "fuse" if you will) is larger on the D50 (1.25" vs 1.10"). The D50 hubs are stronger too, but I don't have an exact number for those, though based on some other data I have, it should be about 4500 lbs-ft for the D50 and 3500 lbs-ft for the D44 (Ford hubs, the Warn premiums are stronger... about 5400 lbs-ft for the D44- no data on Premiums for the D50).

In day to day use and moderate 'wheeling with tires up to 33 inches, the D44 is fine. If you can score a D50 cheap (maybe as cheap as the new parts to fix your D44), it's a pretty easy swap that makes sense. Check the ball joints, center pivot bushing and u-joints, replace all to be safe.

If you do use non-greasable, take the new ones apart and repack them with a good synthetic grease. Non greasable types are always under lubricated with so-so grease. Once water gets in them, you can't purge them with fresh grease as you can with a greaseable joint.

If you have a choice, use Spicer u-joints. They are the best quality overall. Get the forged ones if possible (I don't have the p/n handy).