Thanks for all the info and input, the D50 is going in I just have to check the gears on the donor one time and verify they are a match. Guy said they were a 3.54 or a 3.55 but it was dark and late and we never checked the tag but he was pretty sure. If that's the case then D50 it is and a cold day ahead for me. Will post back with the outcome.

 

Well progress is made but is slowly grinding to a halt until the parts are got tomorrow. I got the 44 out today and the 50 dropped too. The u joints are what's holding me up they looked "ok" but in the spirit of being **** about not having to do this job again for a while (maybe a little lift is the future) I'm replacing all 3 while it's out. good thing because the first one I got out was done. It's a good axle though and will outlast the rest of the truck I bet and bonus I got to tear open the hub and find out what it's all about today. Almost took off more then I could chew on this project but man it's going to be worth the extra work. And all said and done I will be into it less then $300 for the upgrade.

 

If the temps are like the Weather Channel has been showing for Montana, I hope you are inside.
If not, time for several big tarps to tent your truck so at least the wind won't be blowing under it.

 

That worries me Dave, lol. It's actually been decent this week staying at about freezing but it's been raining the last two days and the terrain is treacherous. Haven't heard but maybe we're in for another cold spell and for us born and raised, anything above freezing is sweatshirt weather

I did hit a stall on this job last night. Is there two sizes of u-joints for these axles? Got one of the u-joins in and went on to the next and the ears of the shaft are thicker on that piece (escapes me right now) and the new one wouldn't go in! The difference in the old u-joints was that they were a + pattern and you could push one side through the opposite ear to make it in, but these new ones are of a O pattern and the round piece between the caps is hitting and it won't make it through. Hopefully that makes sense! They are all spicer u-joints. What gives?

The guy at the place I bought it from has been helping me go through this to refurbish it up real good and he got the parts from the local truck supply on his account so he was heading back out there today with the parts to have them band the slip shaft boot and check out the whole won't fit sitcheation so hopefully it's good news when I get over there tonight.

 

Just reading back over this thread makes much more sense to me now. Thanks for all the input! I solved the fit problem on the long shaft with a grease-able u joint. The original one was solid and while they fit in the slip shaft side, it wouldn't fit the long one because the ears are thicker.

Feedback I'm getting is that the solid ones, while non serviceable are stronger and last longer. I opted to put the serviceable ones at the wheels since they are easy to get to.

I wished this project was wrapped up already so I can have my truck back on the road but the hubs are getting a once over too while they are out. Got them torn down and cleaned in the parts tank and going to put on new seals and fresh grease so it's taking a few extra days to get things done. I'm going through a bit of withdraw

 

Not true. And I have proof beyond my opinion.

Some years back, I was involved in destructive testing of greaseable vs non-greaseable joints (and axle shafts too!). In all cases, they were about equal. The Spicer books don't list any difference in strength either but when I have talked to Spicer engineers, they all say that lubricant failure is the #1 cause of u-joint failure, no matter what type you use. Most think that a greaseable type that is kept greased will last lots longer than a non-servicable type. The two types of joins will break differently, with the non-greasable type more likely to take the yoke with it. If you can round up the June 1999 issue of Four Wheeler magazine, you can see a good part of the data we used in the story.

I have some of the stats handy. There were five tests of each type, with the numbers averaged. We didn't get a greaseable 627 (D50 size) to test):

Ultimate Strength (UTS-Breaks)

Spicer 297 Greasable: 4514.8 lbs-ft
Spicer 297 Non Greasable: 4663.9 lbs-ft
Dutchman 297 Equiv, Greasable: 4649.5 lbs-ft
Dutchman 297 Equiv, Non Greasable:4524.5 lbs-ft
Spicer 5-627 (Dana 50 size, 1350 series) non-greasable: 4897 lbs-ft

I was given a UTS number of about 5400 lbs-ft for the new 760 style Spicer forged joint (the replacement for the 297 size) so it's significantly stronger .

 

Jim, I believe the ones we used were the 700 series 799x maybe? Then the greasable ones were the 500xx I honestly can't remember but in the end none of the solid types would fit in any of the axles except the short shaft. I thought it might have been a replacement but it had a Ford part number stamped on there, but the joint wouldn't fit it's mate so it had to come out and get replaced. I'll be glad not to see a u-joint change the rest of my life on this darn truck lol. Thanks for the great info, again.

The D50 is in!

An alignment question. What would cause the new axle to **** my steering wheel to the 10 O'clock position and make the truck want to chase right? I don't know the first thing about alignment

 

Run the steering wheel from side to side counting the turns each way.. there may be one side shorter. You may need an alignment.

 

Thanks I'm going to try that. I also got it on a level piece of ground today and stood about 25' in front of it and there is a positive camber on both sides, the passenger side being worse which would explain the darting right. Looks like an alignment is indeed in the foreseeable future. Guy I work with used to work at the Ford dealer says the TTB is a bugger and they used to put the rigs on a rack, tie them down and basically bend the axles. Is there a reputable way to correctly adjust the camber these days? I mean the guys almost old as dust so that could have been who knows how long ago lol

 

That is how you did the old twin I beam kingpin 2x frontends.

 

Star, what's that mean for this one? If I understand things right there's a sleeve that goes on the outside of the ball joint that when spun adjusts the camber. The tire guys will be having at this one but I'd like to understand it

 

The bushing has numbers on it, and an alignment guy that is good will usually hit how much the number has to change in which direction that he only has to change it once to get it right.

They do make an adjustable excentric bushing, but they don't stay where you want them unless you only drive smooth highways.

Those bushings are why IFS axle ride height is so critical.

It takes both the bushings and possible wedges between the spring and axle housing to get the caster and camber just right.
But the extra tire wear and how nice it will drive is worth the extra effort and expense of getting it set to preffered alignment specs instead of just within allowable plus or minus spec.

Off the top of my head, from allowable plus to minus was several degrees difference.

 

Maintenance failures are the #1 failure when it comes to u-joints......
And Dave .S. right foot is #2.LOL.

 

Good thing I did all the front axle ones before it went back in the rig. Also regreased the front shaft, (back u joint I already replaced) and cleaned and re packed both hubs with new seals. It rolls great aside from being caddywampus lol

#2 failure gets worse when when she goes clunk clunk and you can watch the gas needle move from F to E at the same time

 

I just spent 4 days pushing snow, heavy wet snow.
Just came back from out in the boonies to plow open some driveways.

The first one was about 1/2 mile long, 20% grade all uphill to get in, chains on the rear axle.
Second one was 1/4 mile long, 30% grade all uphill around the side of a very steep hill, chains on all four wheels for that one.

A hard shove in low range second gear, with all four tires digging on both driveways.

No broken axles, no broken U joints and no broken driveshafts, I did good.
A friend rode along to show me where they were, he stayed in the truck for the first driveway, but got out on the second one for some reason.

To bad it was after dark, that second drive would have made a nice video.
I need to get a camera that records video's.