'08 Ford F150 Question
'08 Ford F150 Question
Guys,
I've been a member for a while but haven't posted until now. I just bought a used '08 F150 Super Crew, Single CD Stereo, Power Windows & Locks, 4.6 V8 Auto Trans, with a little over 40k miles on it. (pictures are in my gallery)
The truck is in great shape and runs like new, but this is the first new style truck I've owned. I usually deal with my '76 F150 and '77 F100s and I'm wondering what I should keep an eye out for to keep problems to a minimum since I'm planning on owning this truck long term.
Thanks,
-Scott H.
I've been a member for a while but haven't posted until now. I just bought a used '08 F150 Super Crew, Single CD Stereo, Power Windows & Locks, 4.6 V8 Auto Trans, with a little over 40k miles on it. (pictures are in my gallery)
The truck is in great shape and runs like new, but this is the first new style truck I've owned. I usually deal with my '76 F150 and '77 F100s and I'm wondering what I should keep an eye out for to keep problems to a minimum since I'm planning on owning this truck long term.
Thanks,
-Scott H.
Welcome to the site. I hope you get good service out of your truck for a long time. All I would recomend is to chagne the oil and filter regularly (there are a lot of opinions on what is regular). Did you get an owners manual with it? If so just follow the guide lines for maintenance. I have found over the years, that if you take care of your vehicle it will take care of you for the most part.
Thank you for the reply. I did get an owner's manual with it, but it was the wrong one (it's for a Chevy 1500
). They're in the process of getting the right one now and I should have it by the end of the week.
I tend to be obsessive about oil & filter changes, but that's why my cars last longer than the rest of my family's and friends vehicles too.
Can you tell me if the manual has when the timing belt and other sensors should be serviced in it?
I'm also giving serious thought to a K&N air filter for it. Since this will be a stock, unmodified, engine is it a good - bad - indifferent idea?
Thanks again,
-Scott H.
). They're in the process of getting the right one now and I should have it by the end of the week.I tend to be obsessive about oil & filter changes, but that's why my cars last longer than the rest of my family's and friends vehicles too.
Can you tell me if the manual has when the timing belt and other sensors should be serviced in it?
I'm also giving serious thought to a K&N air filter for it. Since this will be a stock, unmodified, engine is it a good - bad - indifferent idea?

Thanks again,
-Scott H.
Thank you for the reply. I did get an owner's manual with it, but it was the wrong one (it's for a Chevy 1500
). They're in the process of getting the right one now and I should have it by the end of the week.
I tend to be obsessive about oil & filter changes, but that's why my cars last longer than the rest of my family's and friends vehicles too.
Can you tell me if the manual has when the timing belt and other sensors should be serviced in it?
I'm also giving serious thought to a K&N air filter for it. Since this will be a stock, unmodified, engine is it a good - bad - indifferent idea?
Thanks again,
-Scott H.
). They're in the process of getting the right one now and I should have it by the end of the week.I tend to be obsessive about oil & filter changes, but that's why my cars last longer than the rest of my family's and friends vehicles too.
Can you tell me if the manual has when the timing belt and other sensors should be serviced in it?
I'm also giving serious thought to a K&N air filter for it. Since this will be a stock, unmodified, engine is it a good - bad - indifferent idea?

Thanks again,
-Scott H.
Thank you for correcting me on that. I had no idea about if it's a belt or chain either, that's why I'm asking people that know.
If it was a 302, 351 W or C, or a 400M like is in the older trucks, I could tell you about them. The new motors I have no clue about.
I am reading the posts here trying to learn though!
-Scott H.
If it was a 302, 351 W or C, or a 400M like is in the older trucks, I could tell you about them. The new motors I have no clue about.

I am reading the posts here trying to learn though!

-Scott H.
really oil...filters and brakes are the things to keep an eye on.....timing chains are fine for 100K plus....
make sure you use ONLY 5w-20 oil.....
Save your money on the k&n.....you won't gain much and the oil can foul out the the mass air flow sensor......
make sure you use ONLY 5w-20 oil.....
Save your money on the k&n.....you won't gain much and the oil can foul out the the mass air flow sensor......
Thank you for the information, you just saved me some cash on the filter!
I was thinking about the reusable filter and never gave any thought to the sensors. Things like this are why I'm asking questions before I mess something up.
I also just wrote down to use 5W20 in it. I'll write it on a piece of tape and put it under the hood if it isn't marked under there somewhere.
Thanks again,
-Scott H.
I was thinking about the reusable filter and never gave any thought to the sensors. Things like this are why I'm asking questions before I mess something up.
I also just wrote down to use 5W20 in it. I'll write it on a piece of tape and put it under the hood if it isn't marked under there somewhere.
Thanks again,
-Scott H.
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Its marked...right on top of the oil filler cap.....5w20 is a bit different than the old motors and while there are some guys using rediculous oil weights in their trucks......i know someone who ran the wrong weight and ended up trashing their motor.....only to find out they wouldn't cover it under warranty because of that...
Most on here agree that motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and a motorcraft filters every 5000 miles is the best bet on these trucks.......and fyi...walmarts the cheapest for these.....
Most on here agree that motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and a motorcraft filters every 5000 miles is the best bet on these trucks.......and fyi...walmarts the cheapest for these.....
Also...if you haven't noticed already the brake pads put out ALOT of dust....a very popular upgrade on these is akebono ceramic pads....virtually eliminate dust and increase brake performance....
I put on an AFE Pro-Dry S drop in filter in my truck, for 2 main reasons.
It's re-usable and it does not need oil.
There are reusable filters available that do not use oil.
So far, mine has been cleaned out 3 times and looks brand new.
It's re-usable and it does not need oil.
There are reusable filters available that do not use oil.
So far, mine has been cleaned out 3 times and looks brand new.
Thanks for the replies, I'm definitely going to check into the products you both mentioned!
As for the oil, is there any benefit with going to a full synthetic or should I stay with the semi?
I seriously want this truck to last for a long, long time!
I've had my '77 F100 for 25 years and have only been through 1 engine and 2 transmissions in it (neither were my fault - NEVER loan your truck to family!). I'm hoping to do just as well if not better with the '08.
Thanks again to everyone that has answered my question,
-Scott H.
As for the oil, is there any benefit with going to a full synthetic or should I stay with the semi?
I seriously want this truck to last for a long, long time!
I've had my '77 F100 for 25 years and have only been through 1 engine and 2 transmissions in it (neither were my fault - NEVER loan your truck to family!). I'm hoping to do just as well if not better with the '08.
Thanks again to everyone that has answered my question,
-Scott H.
Last edited by Cpt. Bondo; Dec 16, 2009 at 02:48 AM. Reason: Fixing a typo
Go with regular dino 5W30 or the Fords Semi Synthetic 5W20 if you plan on changing the oil often and go with a full, long life synthetic if you plan on stretching out the oil change intervals.
Don't get too caught up on 5W20 vs. 5W30 oil weights. Ones every bit as good as the other. The whole "run anything other than Motorcraft 5W20 and it'll eat up your cam phasers" is one of those unfounded internet myths, most likely started by someone with something to gain by selling Motorcraft oil. There is no proof (significant or otherwise) that there is any truth to this myth.
Regular oil and filter changes are more important than the type of oil you're running in your engine, so don't sweat the small stuff.
Don't get too caught up on 5W20 vs. 5W30 oil weights. Ones every bit as good as the other. The whole "run anything other than Motorcraft 5W20 and it'll eat up your cam phasers" is one of those unfounded internet myths, most likely started by someone with something to gain by selling Motorcraft oil. There is no proof (significant or otherwise) that there is any truth to this myth.
Regular oil and filter changes are more important than the type of oil you're running in your engine, so don't sweat the small stuff.
I would definately stay with 5w20 weight oil as recommended. Motorcraft synthetic blend is a very good value right now at Wally World. In my part of the country it's $11.50 for a 5 quart container. Castrol GTX dino oil is the same price. Most synthetics are considerably more as well as other brand synthetic blends. Use whatever brand of oil you desire, just stay with 5w20. I use nothing but Motorcraft oil filters. $4.19 at Wally World or $3.69 at Advance Auto Parts.
Go with regular dino 5W30 or the Fords Semi Synthetic 5W20 if you plan on changing the oil often and go with a full, long life synthetic if you plan on stretching out the oil change intervals.
Don't get too caught up on 5W20 vs. 5W30 oil weights. Ones every bit as good as the other. The whole "run anything other than Motorcraft 5W20 and it'll eat up your cam phasers" is one of those unfounded internet myths, most likely started by someone with something to gain by selling Motorcraft oil. There is no proof (significant or otherwise) that there is any truth to this myth.
Regular oil and filter changes are more important than the type of oil you're running in your engine, so don't sweat the small stuff.
Don't get too caught up on 5W20 vs. 5W30 oil weights. Ones every bit as good as the other. The whole "run anything other than Motorcraft 5W20 and it'll eat up your cam phasers" is one of those unfounded internet myths, most likely started by someone with something to gain by selling Motorcraft oil. There is no proof (significant or otherwise) that there is any truth to this myth.
Regular oil and filter changes are more important than the type of oil you're running in your engine, so don't sweat the small stuff.


