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Hey guys I have a little bit of a electrical gremlin going on ?
fficeffice" /><O></O> Here is how it started shortly after I bought the truck in July I went out to start a one-day and as I was starting it I noticed that the wait to start like wasn't coming on and had no km showing on odmator so I checked the fuses and noticed that fuse number 35 was no good so I put fuse in theirand got abought 5K down the road and it blew again so like a moron I stuck a 15 amp fuse in there and then I could smell smoke I ended up burning off the solder traces inside the fuse box. So I got a new fuse box and installed it and everything seemed to be fine abought 3 week lator the fuse blew again so I replaced it with a 10 fuse and everything was fine this continued for the last few months and is starting worse now before I could just put fuse in it everything would be fine . Now when I put the fuse in it blows rate a way some times started to look around for burnt wires and found green/yellow wire burned in the engine compartment on the drivers side I'm not sure if this green and yellow wire is the one for ford recall also when the fuse box blew i lost the cruse control
<O></O> Is there any one who has the wiring diagram for this particular circuit fuse #35
“ All that messy wiring UC was like that when I bought the truck having had a chance to clean up yet ”
What all is on that circuit? The fuel bowl heater short is a common one. It can be a pain to troubleshoot some of those problems. Pics are kind of hard to see.
The fuel bowl heater is on the same circuit as the PCM, so when it shorts out, the fuse blown (#30 on the older trucks) the PCM loses power which results in a no start. One of the signs of the shorted heater is no WTS light.
Chris...i got so excited to see this link...only one problem...they skip right over the 250 SD...matter of fact, it makes a point to only list the Light Duty...wtf...and there is not a download available for 7.3 Diesel supplement manual...not your issue, just throwing the info out for everyone else...
[quote=F350-6;8223789]The fuel bowl heater is on the same circuit as the PCM, so when it shorts out, the fuse blown (#30 on the older trucks) the PCM loses power which results in a no start. One of the signs of the shorted heater is no WTS light.
no i can still start the truck and the high idel works ? didn't notice aney change in the truck and how it runs when it blows had to drive ( 35k ) to town one time to get fues was out in the bush just glad it was warm
Chris...i got so excited to see this link...only one problem...they skip right over the 250 SD...matter of fact, it makes a point to only list the Light Duty...wtf...and there is not a download available for 7.3 Diesel supplement manual...not your issue, just throwing the info out for everyone else...
no i can still start the truck and the high idel works ? didn't notice aney change in the truck and how it runs when it blows had to drive ( 35k ) to town one time to get fues was out in the bush just glad it was warm
Fuse 35 shows to be the instrument cluster. Have you pulled it to find out if there's something wrong on the back side? Do all your dash lights and gauges work properly?
Do all your dash lights and gauges work properly? yes
some times i will stop at a store and set the parking brake and go into the store and i can hear it go into high idel and when i come out 5minets later and come back to the truck the gages are dead ( km,rpm,odmator also the radio ) some time i can just stick a new fuse in and other times i have to turn off the truck and wate 5 minets and it works untill next time
cant pin point
I'd say you need to pull the cluster and see if you can find any issues with it or the wiring between it and the fuse block.
For the cruise control, remove your CPP (clutch pedal position sensor) Look at the springs inside there. Should be 1 long spring on each side. If it looks like several springs stacked on top of each other, replace the CPP. It's available at your local parts store for around $35. That's the most common issue with cruise not working.
( For the cruise control, remove your CPP (clutch pedal position sensor) Look at the springs inside there. Should be 1 long spring on each side. If it looks like several springs stacked on top of each other, replace the CPP. It's available at your local parts store for around $35. That's the most common issue with cruise not working. )
i replaced it not even 30 days a go. $35 yeah right I shoped around for it and the chepest it was $75 aftermarket and ford was a wopping $115.75
CAD funds
i replaced it not even 30 days a go. $35 yeah right I shoped around for it and the chepest it was $75 aftermarket and ford was a wopping $115.75
CAD funds
Where are you shopping for parts? My local autozone has it listed for under $40 USD, and RockAuto, as site sponsor here has it listed for under $35 USD.
Frigging SWEEEEEETTTTT....got it, added to favs, no more wishing...Santa came early...and his name was Chris...aka. F350-6...
Thanks for the legwork...
And Chris...where the other cat is shopping is in Oh...Canada...the land of double prices cause the queens money is only worth half as much....hehehehe...jk...please no slams cause i dissed the queen....lol
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