I was hoping that the wise members of the FTE could help me out diagnosing a problem I am having shifting. I have a 51 F-1 with the 226 6-cyl and the 4 spd, non-syncroed transmission. Shifting up gears, from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th (I don't use the granny-gear 1st) has become a problem. I can't get the shifter to get into gear without grinding the gears pretty badly or unless I'm going so slow I'm essentially almost stopped (as in going from 2nd to 3rd is virtually impossible unless I'm at a very slow roll). I can start from a stop in 1st, 2nd, 3rd or reverse just fine. Now, I got this truck about a month ago, and my double-clutching was working just fine then, so it's not that I am not properly shifting (at least I don't think so, but I was driving just fine a couple of weeks ago).

I consulted my shop manual, and it said the first thing to try was to adjust the free-play in the clutch pedal (it is supposed to be at 1 3/8 inches, I checked yesterday and mine was at about 3.5 inches). I am in the process of adjusting that (I have to clean up the adjusting rod a bit before I can actually make the adjustment). However, given the appearance of the adjusting rod, the adjustment has definitely not changed over the last month as this problem had been developed. So, while I will make the adjsutment, I am not sure what to look for if I fix the adjustment and the problem contines (which is why I am posing the question to y'all).

Now, another fact is that I live in a very, very hilly area. While practicing/learning how to double-clutch, I took the truck on some very steep hills to see what it was able to climb, and how steep a hill I would be able to uphift on... I also had to start and stop on some very steep hills, but I didn't burn the clutch too much on those as far as I recall. And, again, it seems to shift/grab fine from a stop or slow roll.

Also, I don't know when, if ever, the clutch disc was replaced last. The truck has about 51,000 miles on it and it could be true that it might be the original clutch disc and pressure plate.

Any help or thoughts is much appreciated?

Richard

 

Sounds like it's time for a new clutch. Maybe if the truck sat a long time before you got it the clutch might have been old and just wore out fast.

Some one else?

 

I would agree - new clutch.

It's most likely the throw out bearing and the clutch is not quite disengaging as much as it needs to. If it was the clutch plate or pressure plate, it would probably be slipping. They usually all wear out together, but it's a toss up which one goes enough to impact first. Any grinding sound or whining when you step on the clutch?

BUT! Be sure to check the oil level, shift adjustment, and whether the shifter is secure in place first.

 

I'd try and adjust the linkage first, just to see if it helps. Funny story....last summer I got a new clutch for my old F6 from napa, then pulled the motor to change it.....the old clutch looked better than the new chinese one , so I put it back in and adjusted it and it works great........all it needed was an adjustment. If you do replace your clutch, try to find a USA made one.......the imported ones are junk. t/m

 

Try cleaning up the entire clutch linkage, pay attention to the pins. a little wear makes a lot of slop. No one ever lubes them and they see a lot of action, so they wear.

 

Thanks for all your replies. I am going to adjust the linkage this weekend and see if it works first. I just have a feeling it's not the clutch itself as it starts in gear just fine without slipping... Jilie, no grinding or whining when I step on the clutch.

I definitely need to do a lot of cleaning on the underside of my truck, so I might as well start with the entire clutch linkage as ALBUQ F-1 suggests.

Again, if there are any other ideas out there, I am all ears (or eyes in the case of this forum).

 

If it's been run dry at all the roller bearings in the transmission might be going and the shafts are not tight, but I'd check the other stuff first!

 

being a non synco transmission you will probably have to double clutch it like we had to do in big rigs. or if you get the rps right it should slip into the next gear with no problem.

 

Have you checked or replaced the tranny lube? 50 year old lube is way past it's prime, and checking the drainings will give an indication of the tranny's condition. A leaky main bearing seal can oil the clutch disk so that it hangs up when you push in the clutch, or rusty tranny input shaft can also hang the disk. Is there an inspection cover on the bellhousing? If so pull it and take a look while someone operates the clutch. I have seen where worn clutch disk lining partially tore loose and folded up between the disk and flywheel or pressure plate.

 

Well, I tried the linkage/shift adjustment and it did not work as I am still having the same problem. AX, the lube was changed out about 2 years ago. The transmission is leaking a bit somehwere... as the whole thing is a bit greasy, but I checked the fluid level and it seems fine. The linkage grease fittings feel like they are packed properly as well. Now, once I get beyond adjustments and fluid levels, I think I am a bit out of my league. It's most likely the clutch as most folks here thought initially. So, does anyone know a good transmission guy/folks/shop in the Bay Area as I should probably just have the whole tranny gone through and checked?

Thanks again for your help everybody.

 

Do you have a decent set of wrenches (combination box/openend and at least 3/8" drive socket set and such tools and a dry clean place to work? A friend to lend an extra set of hand would also be good. Pulling the tranny and replacing the clutch is just an intermediate level DIY project we can coach you thru. I don't have any idea how much luck you will have finding a mechanic willing to take on your tranny, I'd bet it would be much less expensive to find a good replacement, syncromesh might also be nice while you are at it?
Sure the leak is from the tranny? Sure it's not getting on the clutch? Have you checked for an inspection plate or cover on the bottom of the bellhousing? Don't be afraid to ask even the most basic of questions, we all started sometime and are always willing to help at any level.

 

Well, I do have those tools.... and it would be fun to do myself... ?? Plus I do have some free time coming up a year end for vacaction. The problem is really not so much that I don't think I could take the thing on and off, but more so in the identifying what's wrong and fixing it before I put it back in. I will check the bellhousing tonight to see if it has a cover, or plate I can take off.

 

With no synchro's involved, all you need to look at is bearings and any badly chipped teeth. But I'd look hard at the clutch before doing anything to the trans, once you get the tranny out of the way.

 

OK... First, I am going to convince myself that I can do this. Done. Now, if I am going to take the tranny out to replace the clutch disc (which is the most likely culprit), what else should I be checking and replacing at the same time? I am thinking the pressure plate, perhaps the throw out bearing? Are there some seals between the transmission/bellhousing and engine and btwn the tranny and the drive shaft that I should replace? There's a lot of grease and grime down there... so something is likely leaking. Since it's out... things to check on the transmission as well, gasket repalcesments, etc.? Also, special tools (looks like I need a clutch alignment tool)...

I've definitely never done this before so if there's anything so basic that you should think everybody knows it, please let me know as I may not know it.

Also, another question on the tranny since it's going to be out. I have the 4spd non-syncro, it's difficult to shift from 2nd (bottom left) to 3rd (top right) in that it's difficult to find the gear slot with the shifter... is there a worn component that I could replace that would make this easier, or is it just a matter of practice?

Thanks again,

Richard

 

Richard,

Getting from second to third should not be difficult. The gear shift is long and mine covers a lot of real estate when I shift so one gear to another should be a big difference and easy to find. You may want to pull the shifter out and see if it or the forks are worn...might also be a good idea to remove it anyway before you try to pull the tranny out. Van Pelt has the gaskets and most of the other parts you need (and a lot of good advice!) I think I'd at least open it up and have a look when you get it out.

A clutch job is not hard, but, I'm guessing the 4 speed is not as easy as the 3. I lifted the three speed out by hand through the transmission access cover on my parts truck. I don't think the 4 speed will work so easily--it is larger, heavier and I'm not 100% convinced it will clear the cross member though the shop manual says it does. There is a 50/50 vote on an old thread here somewhere where I posted the question so who knows?

Here are a few things to think about. First, the rear motor mount is on the transmission so when it goes the engine needs to be supported somehow--no rolling the truck around until you are all done! Second, the bolts which hold the pressure plate on are hard to get to, I don't know if it's possible to get them off on the 11" clutch without a fancy wrench or taking the bell housing off--others can advise I'm sure. Third, you will need a clutch alignment tool or some really good luck so be sure to get one. Fourth, your rear main seal could be leaking and getting on to the clutch so you may want to look into that--not easy when the engine is mounted in the truck and it will require the oil pan to come off.

I too have to get into my clutch to replace a screeching release bearing. I've been putting it off for months and I'm planning on tackling it with a floor jack and hopefully an extra set of hands. Whichever one us goes first it would be great to post the results here. Good luck if it's you and wish me luck if it's me!


Ryan