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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by itsjustdan26
ITS FREAKING COLD! Look at -7 below tonight. Maybe a lil colder. Either way. My truck hates it lol. I plugged in my truck at work to see if my heater would work with a crappy plug on the end of it. And it didnt. So it will be a real bear tomorrow to fire over...I almost wanna cry when I hear it romp a dozen times and crank it 4 times. Just sad. It needs work the PO didnt do to it.
Is the plug end wires frayed or the plug busted up? You can easily replace with a new end from the hardware store. Obviously not tonight, it's stupid cold out. -7 Sheesh!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #17  
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Injection Control Pressure Sensor (ICP)

* The ICP sensor provides the feedback signal for the closed loop control of the high pressure oil.
* The ICP sensor is a ceramic disk type pressure sensor that converts pressure into a 0 to 5 volt analog signal that the PCM uses to determine injection control pressure.
* The ICP sensor is threaded into the high pressure oil galleries on the left cylinder head.


Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (EOT)

* The Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor is a thermister whose resistance decreases as engine oil temperature increases.
* The EOT signal is one of the sensors used by the PCM to calculate fuel quantity, injection timing, glow plug operation, and exhaust back pressure.
* At oil temperatures below 122° F (65° C), low idle is increased to a maximum of 900 RPM to insure faster engine warm-up.
* Fuel quantity and timing is controlled throughout the total operating range to ensure adequate torque and power are available.
* An EOT signal detected out of range, high or low, by the PCM will cause the PCM to ignore the EOT signal and assume an engine oil temperature of 68° F (20° C) for starting purposes and 212° F (100° C) for operating purposes.
* Engine oil temperature is measured in the reservoir.
* A fault code can be set if the on-board diagnostics detects a defect.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 08:01 PM
  #18  
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okay if you unplug the ICP or EOT it causes the pcm to go into default mode from what i read .
 
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 12:51 AM
  #19  
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The wires are just burnt through, But its burnt right behind the plug. I dont know enough on wiring to do this myself. I thought about just buyin a new plug from the stealership but not sure exactly how far into the engine bay I gotta dig. And with it bein that cold out, Im not wanting to really crawl onto the ground and look around lol. When I get a replacment plug to splice into the existing wire is there a certian one I should buy?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 07:15 AM
  #20  
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Well truck fired right up this morning temp was 25F . I hadnt touch it since yesterday left it unplugged for the last 2 days .. Turned the key on let the glow plugs warm up turned key to star cranked over about 3 times and fired right up. So think i got this cold start problem fixed woo hoo.... IT came down to I think the last thing was the EOT had a bad conection.. I would think if wasnt going to start it would have done that today being 25f out and snowing ...


Brendan
 
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 07:32 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by itsjustdan26
The wires are just burnt through, But its burnt right behind the plug. I dont know enough on wiring to do this myself. I thought about just buyin a new plug from the stealership but not sure exactly how far into the engine bay I gotta dig. And with it bein that cold out, Im not wanting to really crawl onto the ground and look around lol. When I get a replacment plug to splice into the existing wire is there a certian one I should buy?
It's like wiring any 110v house plug. If it's just behind the plug, you can run to Home Depot and buy a replacement male three prong plug and cut and splice. Ford does sell a cord replacement kit but I'm not familiar with it. I assume it replaces the cord from the bumper to the element - which is located in the housing where your oil filter spins on.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 07:41 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by itsjustdan26
The wires are just burnt through, But its burnt right behind the plug. I dont know enough on wiring to do this myself. I thought about just buyin a new plug from the stealership but not sure exactly how far into the engine bay I gotta dig. And with it bein that cold out, Im not wanting to really crawl onto the ground and look around lol. When I get a replacment plug to splice into the existing wire is there a certian one I should buy?
Comon Dan. If I can do it you can do it...and I am a retard when it comes to electrical stuff. Like Chris said get a new heavy duty 3-prong 110v plug from the hardware store...its really self explanatory. Sounds to me like you need a new plug...what happens is, people plug these trucks in and then forget, and drive away..puts a lot of stress on the wiring and eventually they fray and crack.

Originally Posted by bren7176
Well truck fired right up this morning temp was 25F . I hadnt touch it since yesterday left it unplugged since yesterday .. Turned the key on let the glow plugs warm up turned key to star cranked over about 3 times and fired right up. So think i got this cold start problem fixed woo hoo.... IT came down to I think the last thing was the EOT had a bad conection.. I would think if wasnt going to start it would have done that today being 25f out and snowing ...


Brendan
That's good news, Brendan. I would think if you had any residual issues it would've shown up.

I started mine at -5 once, without being plugged in. It chugged like a freight train, but it started. Everything in working order they will start, they just don't like it real well. Put some anti-gel in your fuel and you should be good to go.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 05:01 AM
  #23  
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So her it is 3rd day in the row the truck hasnt had the block heater plugged in , The temp outside is 31f and snowing. I just went out and fired the truck up about 3-4 cranks and she fired ... Im very happy any other time I would have had the block heater plugged in but now noting just firing off the glow plugs. Thanks to all the post I read over the last few weeks is how I finally figured out the problem. Still think I might just replace the injectors sooner or later in the next few months....


Brendan
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:55 AM
  #24  
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That's great news. So what did it end up being?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 07:07 AM
  #25  
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well unplugged the ICP and the EOT and reconnected them . I honestly think it was a bad connection i cleaned them up now no more problems .....


Brendan
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 07:09 AM
  #26  
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Thanks. Good to know.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Smokin'
Comon Dan. If I can do it you can do it...and I am a retard when it comes to electrical stuff. Like Chris said get a new heavy duty 3-prong 110v plug from the hardware store...its really self explanatory. Sounds to me like you need a new plug...what happens is, people plug these trucks in and then forget, and drive away..puts a lot of stress on the wiring and eventually they fray and crack.


I helped a guy at work yesterday about his block heater and it was the plug end as well. It broke right behind the rubber of the plug. He wired a new one up at lunch. I'll ask if it fixed his problem today. Willing to bet it did.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:11 AM
  #28  
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is there a good place to get an ICP incase I need a new one?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #29  
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May be a dumb question to the rest of you but where is the ICP plug? or as they always say a picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:22 AM
  #30  
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there is another thread, that has PICS of the motor area. and its recent so it should be able to find.

ICP is the one that is plain view front driver side rail coming up and towards the fuel filter if I remember right.
 
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